Tier 4 Rant - Not Kubota

Greenhead

Member

Equipment
L4400, MX5100
Oct 13, 2014
193
0
16
Fond du Lac, WI
Those standards appear to be what created Tier 2 emissions controls, mostly removing the sulfur from diesel. Tier 4 started shortly after 2009 and was fully in place by 2014 in agriculture. I don't think Bush was directly responsible for Tier 4 but some of his appointees may still have been on the committee responsible for establishing it.
Tier 4 standards were introduced as part of the Clean Air Nonroad Diesel Rule signed by President Bush in 2004. This same rule required the removal of sulfur from diesel fuel by 2010. http://www.hobbyfarms.com/farm-industry-news/2010/03/18/emmission-standards-toughen-for-diesels.aspx

Sad the manufacturers waited to the last minute to try someting. All the tractor companies have different systems. One will work the best. Like you said, we pay for it.
 

ShaunRH

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Lifetime Member

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L3200
May 14, 2014
1,414
6
0
Atascadero, CA
Tier 4 standards were introduced as part of the Clean Air Nonroad Diesel Rule signed by President Bush in 2004. This same rule required the removal of sulfur from diesel fuel by 2010. http://www.hobbyfarms.com/farm-industry-news/2010/03/18/emmission-standards-toughen-for-diesels.aspx

Sad the manufacturers waited to the last minute to try someting. All the tractor companies have different systems. One will work the best. Like you said, we pay for it.
That being the case, I stand corrected. Just goes to show that my low opinion of Bush was equally justified.

Nobody is talking about the Elephant in the room though. Those cooked EPA standards give off far more foul air than anything the worst diesel engine puts out... those statistics stink to high heaven. With those numbers, farmers and their kids would all be dead before they hit 50.
 

tempforce

Member

Equipment
B2650HSDC
Jun 23, 2012
389
4
18
bastrop, tx
your wasting money changing your oil at 3-4000 mile intervals. your owners/service recommendations may be different due to your driving conditions. for my first 20,000 miles i used non-synthetic motor oil with 5,000 mile changes, filter included. also changed my frame mounted 2 micron fuel filter at the same time.
after the 20,000 miles, i switched to 7500 mile intervals, using mobile 1... my oil was testing good, so after 50,000 miles i went to 10,000 mile intervals, between changes, including oil filters.
i went to changing the 2 micron to 6000 miles or whenever the engine would misfire under load. whichever was first. i changed the factory fuel filter when they changed the filter design. first air filter was at 80,000 miles. i was pulling 8000 lbs plus what was in the bed of the truck up a 6% grade, when the air filter sensor told me to change it. the 67,000 check included cleaning the egr cooler. my truck was a 2008 6.7 3500, with auto trans and 2 wheel drive. if i needed to tow a trailer again, i wouldn't hesitate buying the 6.7 auto combo again. i would defiantly get different seats if they haven't improved them....
the 6.7 does not like to be babyed around town or idling on back roads, it likes to work. ps: i averaged over 18 mpg for the life of the truck.. 22-23 hiway unloaded, 17-19 loaded 16-17 in town..
 
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RyeThomas

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Dec 23, 2015
56
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0
Northern Virginia
I own a 2012, had 2 2006's and a 2004. I've had a Cummins powered Dodge Ram in my drive for the last 12 years. So a few things from experience

You will be due for the 67,500 mile service. This includes replacing the CCV filter, and cleaning some EGR components. Their are a few sites that offer a kit with instructions for under $150.00 and it can be done with simple hand tools in your driveway.

The issue on the 07.5-12 trucks is always going to be fuel dilution in the oil, that's why the oil change interval is low. The regen process causes this, and everyone's conditions and driving style will play a role. I choose to change frequently, but I buy in bulk and do it myself so the cost is much lower. Added more filtration is nice, but it doesn't solve fuel dilution so more frequent changes are necessary even with bypass systems. Either go by the idiot light, or have your oil analyzed.

Don't ever pay a dealer for a HPCR injector cleaning. The only way to clean the injectors is remove them, disassemble, inspect, clean, bench test the flow rates and then return them to the customer with the print out of the flow rates for each injector. The only time to do this is if you have a suspected injector issue.


Lastly I suggest you join a Ram/Cummins specific forum, lots of great info out there.

Anyway best of luck and if you have any other questions feel free to ask, Rye.