Tie Rod Replacement (L3710)

Turtlecreek

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L3710
Nov 10, 2024
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Tennessee
I'm new to tractors and recently purchase an L3710. I love it, but it was a little beat up when I got it. I've fixed most of what I can, but now want to replace the tie rods. The boots are torn and there is tons of play in them. So, I looked at Messick and they run $900 for both. I look on ebay and amazon and see some for less than $100 each. So, my question: I find them for L3700s The part number is close, but not the same. The part is a TA040-13700, but the ones I find say compatible with L3700SU and that part number is TC220-13700. Its the same for both sides in that they are close, but not exact. I can't find dimensions or other answers to the differences. Does anyone have any suggestions/thoughts on how compatible these are? If it "looks" close to the same, will they work? I'm open to any suggestions (I know I can plunk down the $900, but I think I'd rather let it ride for now for that amount). Thanks for the help ahead of time!
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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You can not compare different parts like that.
A L3710 is no where close to a L3700.
The tie rods are completely different between the 2.
They have different part numbers for a reason.
For a L3710 you need:
LH: TA040-13700
RH: TA040-13740 / HTA0A-13700

LH:




RH:




 

Turtlecreek

New member

Equipment
L3710
Nov 10, 2024
8
0
1
Tennessee
You can not compare different parts like that.
A L3710 is no where close to a L3700.
The tie rods are completely different between the 2.
They have different part numbers for a reason.
For a L3710 you need:
LH: TA040-13700
RH: TA040-13740 / HTA0A-13700

LH:




RH:






OK, thank you. didn't know how different an L3700SU was vs L3710. Thanks for the additional options/vendors. I was unaware of several of those. I guess my options are leave as is or bite the bullet and spend the money.
 

Turtlecreek

New member

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L3710
Nov 10, 2024
8
0
1
Tennessee
One more question: on a tractor, is their harm in having your tie rods worn out? Is it possible damaging something else that will cost me dearly? I don't care if the front tires aren't toed perfectly correct (i think) or wobble some as I don't drive it far or fast. I just move dirt,, bush hog, or plow a small furrow...typical small property work. I don't want to be penny wise and dollar foolish. Thanks again.
 

D2Cat

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One more question: on a tractor, is their harm in having your tie rods worn out? Is it possible damaging something else that will cost me dearly? I don't care if the front tires aren't toed perfectly correct (i think) or wobble some as I don't drive it far or fast. I just move dirt,, bush hog, or plow a small furrow...typical small property work. I don't want to be penny wise and dollar foolish. Thanks again.
Your tires will have a shorter useful life!
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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One more question: on a tractor, is their harm in having your tie rods worn out? Is it possible damaging something else that will cost me dearly? I don't care if the front tires aren't toed perfectly correct (i think) or wobble some as I don't drive it far or fast. I just move dirt,, bush hog, or plow a small furrow...typical small property work. I don't want to be penny wise and dollar foolish. Thanks again.
Besides tire wear, if the slop is to great the the shock load on other parts can get to high and break them.
A tie rod is cheap compared to a drive case.
 
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Turtlecreek

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L3710
Nov 10, 2024
8
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1
Tennessee
So, I'm just going to add onto this thread as it is related. I crawled under the front to get a better look at the tie rods. 3 of the 4 thread posts that connect the tie rods to the tractor have something like a castle nut on them. However, the 4th one which is on the wheel hub side, had a welding rod still stuck to the threads. Upon close inspection, it looks like the nut wasn't there, but some really nasty welding is. It looks like it might even be connecting the threaded post to the cast housing on the hub. My question is: if this is the case, how do i get the tie rod out? I guess I could use a sawsall and maybe cut through just under the knuckle joint on the tie rod? but if the threads have some spill over from the jackleg weld, i'm worried if i do anything, i might break the cast housing? i don't do a lot of welding, but is it like soldering in that if i put enough heat on it, it just melts? will that happend before i damage the cast housing? as you can tell, i'm just fishing for thoughts as i don't know how to even start on this. thanks again for any wisdom shed.
 

Russell King

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Welding is not the same as soldering or brazing. Soldering is lowest temperature method then brazing then welding is the highest temperature. Soldering and brazing only melt the additional material but not the parent material. Welding actually melts the parent material and adds small amounts of filler material to create the fillet of the weld.

You can NOT remove a weld joint through heat alone. You have to physically separate the two parts through a cutting or grinding process.

Post a couple of pictures and people will be able to make suggestions on how to proceed. Worst case will be to have to replace the main tractor part along with the tie rod.
 

Turtlecreek

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L3710
Nov 10, 2024
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Tennessee
so, the first pic is obviously the one in question. it is looking up at the tie rod end/threaded post. I also included a shot of the other side, showing how it should look (through the grime :p) and one of the center attachment point which shows a clean version, although inverted with nut on top, instead of nut underneath. if i need to get a better picture, i can do that too.
 

BAP

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Put a grinder to it and grind off the weld. Just be careful you don’t grind any of the casting or you will have a hard time keeping the new replacement end tight. You might need a die grinder to finish up the job if there is any weld inside the hole.
 

Turtlecreek

New member

Equipment
L3710
Nov 10, 2024
8
0
1
Tennessee
Put a grinder to it and grind off the weld. Just be careful you don’t grind any of the casting or you will have a hard time keeping the new replacement end tight. You might need a die grinder to finish up the job if there is any weld inside the hole.
they did weld up in the cavity. i hadn't thought about using a dremel (I have this already) to get up in there. thanks for the option.