Thinking about building a trailer

jimh406

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I stopped by to talk to my local trailer builder to upgrade after buying a tractor. His material costs have doubled over a short amount of time. He’s hoping the prices won’t keep rising. Because of that, he’s building less models and larger equipment haulers with 5200 lb axles.. That’s fine, but I can’t even think of when I might use one. So, I’m not upgrading any time soon.

Relative to online pricing, his prices are still really good with full features. But, my point is you will likely be shocked how much materials cost. Also, he pointed out a lot of issues with other trailers that he had taken in on trade to say how they did a lot wrong. So, a POS with some modifications by you might not be a bad way to go.

YMMV.
 

Njtool

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I’m curious about the material cost also. But the only way to be sure is to price it out.

And finding any kind of trailer near me that even comes close to me needs has proven to be near impossible. I’m still looking but I’m losing hope as time passes.
 
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jimh406

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It might be worth increasing the search distance to find what you are looking for. Assuming NJ is for New Jersey, my local guy in MT is probably too far. ;)
 

Njtool

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To start my budget is 4K. Axels, tires, suspension, lunette ring, etc will be close to 2k. So that leaves 2k for steel and odds and ends
 

NCL4701

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Sorry I can’t give a very complete answer to your original question. Haven’t built an equipment trailer; closest I’ve done is rehabbing near basket cases.

At the risk of being Cap’n Obvious, one thing quite a few of my associates in real life seem to miss is familiarizing themselves with regulations and statutes regarding mandatory equipment in your area. For example, break away kit, lighting requirements, brake requirements, etc. Might also be a good idea to talk to your local DMV (or whatever they call the titling agency where you are) about the process for registering a vehicle for road use which you manufactured. Here in NC it isn’t a particularly arduous procedure but it is a process. Dumping time and money into a trailer and then not being able to get it registered for road use due to some goofy technicality or design modification that would have been an easy fix on the front end would suck.

“I (or Uncle Billy, or whoever) have run rigs this way for years” isn’t exactly adequate research, but I’ve heard it used quite a few times to justify running illegal rigs.
 
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JimmyJazz

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I don't think the demand has exceeded supply here in the Pittsburgh. There is a newer place located along the Pennsylvania turnpike that might have a couple hundred trailers of various sorts. I drove by there today. I think an important yet unsaid part of this story is mans never ending need to create. It doesn't really matter if the economics make sense. Consider human replication for example , makes no economic sense. Same forces at work in my opinion. My advice is to go screw off in your shop and build the best trailer you can. Don't worry about the cost. Try to learn something, scratch that never ending itch and if its a POS at least you tried. Thats how you build a well lived life. When its finished put a picture of it on your Christmas card. Best of luck.
 
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eipo

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Ive built a few... I didn't use any plans. Just used what I know about steel and simplicity.

The double axle I built using 5" heavy formed C Channel for the tongue and perimeter frame and 3" formed C Channel for the cross members on 16" centers. 2 3500 pound axles.

I went with a 40/60 placement on the axles which is 60% of the length in front of the equalizer hanger and 40% behind.

Make sure where you're building it is level and square up the frame prior to finish welding. When you're ready to fabricate and attach the tongue, you want to triangulate that to the equalizer hangers in order to make sure the trailer tracks square to the tow vehicle.
 
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dlsmith

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If you build it, here is a link to a pre-assembled lighting harness for small trailers system that I found when I was looking for replacement wiring harnesses for my semi trailers. I told a friend who was building a 20' trailer about it and he thought it looked like a good idea. I ordered it and gave it to him, and he said it was worth three times what it cost, about $100, as all he had to do was run the harness where he wanted it, plug it together, secure it to the trailer and plug the lights in. It has drops for electric brakes also. Just order the pieces you need.
The ones I used for my semi trailers made rewiring the rear of a trailer a couple hour job, instead of at least an all day job. All I had to do was run it, plus in all the lights and splice it to the main harness.

https://reader.mediawiremobile.com/Phillips/issues/200455/viewer?page=129
 
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Njtool

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Thank you for the suggestion. Last time I built a trailer the dmv need receipts for the axles. I will check that again and see if it’s changed.

Thanks for the harness link. I will check them out.

If i wanted to build a flat trailer with no special tricks, I would probably just design it myself, like I’ve done in the past. However, I like the idea of a tilt bed so paying $50 for plans that might give me some info is something I’m willing to do.
 

GreensvilleJay

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curious , so I had a look at that $100 harness system of parts and I am not impressed. 100 greenbacks is about 130 canucks, and for that I can buy ALL the wiring,lights and mounting hardware to wire up a trailer.
One problem with that 'modular' wiring system is the number of exposed 'plug and pray 'connections. Up here we get a LOT of salt dumped onto the roads in winter, eats steel and copper...
Another problem with that harness is that it doesn't allow for backup lights even though it is at the 7way RV plug. A 'pet peeve' of mine is that no mfr actually includes backup wiring ,let alone lights in their $$ trailers. If you think they're not needed, please come here and backup my 6by10 dumper 250' into the woods at night. BTW thoseedge of the roadway dropoffs are 4-5' deep !
Total wiring of a new trailer should take less than 2 hours and that includes couple coffee breaks. I've got a 22 years old trailer here still running the same wiring though it has a couple 'replaced' rear lights....oopsy.
 

dlsmith

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curious , so I had a look at that $100 harness system of parts and I am not impressed. 100 greenbacks is about 130 canucks, and for that I can buy ALL the wiring,lights and mounting hardware to wire up a trailer.
One problem with that 'modular' wiring system is the number of exposed 'plug and pray 'connections. Up here we get a LOT of salt dumped onto the roads in winter, eats steel and copper...
Another problem with that harness is that it doesn't allow for backup lights even though it is at the 7way RV plug. A 'pet peeve' of mine is that no mfr actually includes backup wiring ,let alone lights in their $$ trailers. If you think they're not needed, please come here and backup my 6by10 dumper 250' into the woods at night. BTW thoseedge of the roadway dropoffs are 4-5' deep !
Total wiring of a new trailer should take less than 2 hours and that includes couple coffee breaks. I've got a 22 years old trailer here still running the same wiring though it has a couple 'replaced' rear lights....oopsy.
That's your opinion, but after I used their harnesses on my drop deck and flatbed trailers, I never had to touch that part of the wiring for the following two years I had them, and my buddy that used the linked harness on his trailer loved it and hasn't had one problem with it and said it was worth every penny.
As far as exposed connections, the only connections other than the plugs that plug into the lights, is the main harness connections. IF you put them together properly, with the recommended silicone grease, and it is aligned properly, it isn't going to get moisture ir salt into it. I even added a sleeve of adhesive lined shrink tube over the connectors for extra protection. After over 40 years of maintaining over the road tractors and trailers, I learned that lesson.

Also, if you fabricate the harness from scratch, depending on the type of lights you use you'll have a whole lot of connections where the harness wires connect to the pigtails that plug into the lights, and three way connectors or connections where drops have to come off for markers, turn lights or stop lights. In the harness, those are all contained in the injection molded junctions. I have never had one of those fail.

Maybe you could wire a trailer in two hours, but it has taken me most of a day using single or flat multi-conductor wires by the time I ran all the wires, made all the connections and sealed or shrink tubed them, then secured everything so it's not going to catch on anything and be supported and protected so it's not going to chafe. Been there, done that. But then I'm pretty anal about that stuff because I hate fixing light harnesses.
 
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BAP

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Why do you want a wood deck that rots and is inconsistent in strength?
I have converted all three of my trailers from wood to steel decks replacing 2x8 boards with 2” X 8” steel purlins. Run a 2” bead of weld every 4 or 5 feet on the lower edge down one side, tacking it to the trailer-frame/base..then the next purlin attaches to it with an equal bead on the top edges. By the time you‘re finished you will have a permanent and very strong deck.
If you are concerned about traction, laying and tacking-down a layer of expanded-metal on top.
A wood deck will last a long time if you keep the dirt off it and put some treatment on it. Biggest downfall is people too lazy to keep them clean. A lot cheaper when steel prices are climbing and unless you are hauling a 100,000 pound excavator are plenty strong enough. Plus, aren’t a skating rink when you get a dusting of snow on them or some rain. So many advantages with wood over steel.
 

GreensvilleJay

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YES... people are lazy, that's why wooden decks 'fail' and boy steel decks get REAL slippery in winter !!! If you bolt the 'holddown' for the decking, it's easy to replace a board or two when needed.
 

NHSleddog

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Why do you want a wood deck that rots and is inconsistent in strength?
I have converted all three of my trailers from wood to steel decks replacing 2x8 boards with 2” X 8” steel purlins. Run a 2” bead of weld every 4 or 5 feet on the lower edge down one side, tacking it to the trailer-frame/base..then the next purlin attaches to it with an equal bead on the top edges. By the time you‘re finished you will have a permanent and very strong deck.
If you are concerned about traction, laying and tacking-down a layer of expanded-metal on top.
Fun Fact: Wood doesn't rust.
 
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NHSleddog

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To the OP, I purchased this 2020 22'x7 14K Tilt Deck Trailer. I could take pictures of, or measure on for you.

The kit shown in your post only shows a single cylinder. This will leave a faster drop or raise (depending on how they plumb it) in the same way that any hydraulic cylinder is faster/slower going in/out.

On mine (gravity raise/lower), there is a dead cylinder (sitting under the trailer and plumbed in, just not attached to anything) to balance it out.

tilt-1.jpg
 
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GeoHorn

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Njtool

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Fun fact. Termites only eat wood that’s touching the ground. They need moisture and the ability to return to the ground... lol
 

B737

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Has anyone actually seen termites eat pressure treated trailer wood?? :ROFLMAO:
Termites dont like exposure, they'd have a hard time tunneling through metal frame.

I thought i wanted a metal deck but love wood deck for a lot of reasons.
 

NHSleddog

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Funnier Fact: Termites don’t eat steel (which lasts up to 5 times longer than wood.)
Which is why my WOOD deck is safe.

I have seen a lot of really old wood structures. No so much with steel. 5 times longer?