There is one thing I despise about kubota, part pricing

DustyRusty

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Last week there were 2 five gallons of super udt on the Facebook marketplace for $100 per 5 gallons.
 

skeets

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If you think the big K prices are out of line,, head to your local HD stealer !
 
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Sidekick

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If you think the big K prices are out of line,, head to your local HD stealer !
When I bought my first Harley I mentioned how expensive all the accessories were, while speaking to my wife. A fellow standing next to me overheard me and said "apparently you don't know what HD stands for, it's Hundred Dollars and you will most likely never leave this store without spending at least one hundred dollars". He was right :oops:.
 
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GeoHorn

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…………i do not trust the kids working at a walmart….
When you’re in your ‘70’s…. most workers at Any Place….seem to be ‘kids’…

But, I don’t see too many “kids” at WM. Unfortunately, Besides the usual Moms and Dads tryin’ to make a livin’… I see lots and lots of Old Folks without pensions having to earn bread and meds money….

When I bought my first Harley I mentioned how expensive all the accessories were, while speaking to my wife. A fellow standing next to me overheard me and said "apparently you don't know what HD stands for, it's Hundred Dollars and you will most likely never this store without spending at least one hundred dollars". He was right :oops:.
Face it…. a HD for most HD-owners is not their primary transportation….it’s a pleasure-craft. Like boats and private airplanes…. It’s a “want”….not a “need”…. and All Luxury Items run on Money.
 
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D2Cat

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Even a simple, straightforward MB E350 oil change is now nearly $300+ at the MB dealer.
I buy the Purflux OEM filter, ($13), 7qts of European Mobil One ($35), and use/reuse my little $15 HF pump.
Nope,.....I don't/can't get the last drop out,....but I do not really care.
I could not get the last drop pumped out of my two marine diesels either, and it did not seem to matter.
E350 filter is on top, so no crawling under.
I pump/drain when hot.
My cost is $48,...... for their $300+ job?
Even at 83......I can easily do it,..... and save $252+,....... to buy 10 pounds of fillet mignon!

I do not need to pay the dealer to check tire wear, headlights, brake lights, brake wear, fluid levels, wiper blades, engine air filter, cabin filter, tire pressure, battery condition, muffler bearing wear, etc.
The dealer doesn't really need to check all the items you listed, but it sure gives them an opportunity for additional sales. And often times dealers are known to tell you you need a particular part when perhaps you really don't.... not all but some!
 

85Hokie

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I had a BX2350. Just about every piece of plastic on it was broken. Didn't change any of the functionality, so I never fixed any of them. I suspect there's very little market for new plastics because most tractor owners don't mind broken plastic - so they're expensive because they're slow moving items.

Yes, the BX2350 was a mistake. The only plastic bodied tractor Kubota made I think. They made it because the equivalent Deere was plastic, and people seemed to like it. The Deere plastic I think was a bit heavier gauge, I also think that Kubota owners expect a bit more of their machine. Kubota went back to metal pretty quickly.

I always figured I'd be able to buy the parts cheap from a wrecked BX2350 sometime. But apparently they never break down, so people are never parting them out. Good problem to have I guess.
I totally agree with your assessment of the 50 series - I have one - and I "try" to keep the sun off the plastic - previous owner backed into his wife's car and cracked the crap out of the rear plastic ..... epoxy and a tape on the inside is only thing holding it together!

HIS fix

1715608230756.png


mine after cussing and a couple of cold ones

1715608276517.png


new lens cover too !
 
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DustyRusty

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I don't know why a drop in one series of fenders wouldn't work. They would be metal, and if you need to, you could drill new mounting holes.
 

fried1765

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Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
Nov 14, 2019
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The dealer doesn't really need to check all the items you listed, but it sure gives them an opportunity for additional sales. And often times dealers are known to tell you you need a particular part when perhaps you really don't.... not all but some!
Like.....maybe...."muffler bearing" :ROFLMAO: ??
I have had a dealer recommend/charge for a new cabin air filter, when the existing was only a week old.
I once had a tire shop charge me for an alignment, but when I checked the tie rod nuts, nothing had been moved.
 

fried1765

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If you think the big K prices are out of line,, head to your local HD stealer !
HD dealers KNOW that you do not NEED a new HD.
They realize that they can charge whatever the traffic will bear.
Somewhat the same, with our Kubota dealers too.
 
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lugbolt

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ZG127S-54
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The dealer doesn't really need to check all the items you listed, but it sure gives them an opportunity for additional sales. And often times dealers are known to tell you you need a particular part when perhaps you really don't.... not all but some!
I can only speak for the dealer I work at and for the one I used to work at (Kubota previously, Polaris now).

Yes, there is "some" truth to what you've said. But it is not our (or my) policy to sell parts and service that is not needed, and never has been-nor will it ever be in the future. Where the miscommunication occurs is when "I" (the tech) does an oil change for example. While the oil's draining I'm gonna go shake the wheels. Loose ball joint? Write it on the repair order. Then SM gets the RO and calls customer. "Ok sir/madam, we've completed the requested service but while the tech was under it he noticed that your LF ball joint is loose. If you decide to repair it-and we HIGHLY recommend doing so, the cost to do it is this much".

Owner never noticed any loose ball joint so he or she's gonna throw a fit about it. "You're just trying to get over on me. Ain't nothing wrong with it, I'll pay for the oil change and I'm out of this dump, y'all are con artists". And then 15 minutes later it's posted all over social media for the whole world to see. "They tried to get over on me and since I'm a certified Youtube mechanic I know everything and what they're trying to do is wrong!"

Believe me I see and hear this ALL the time. Used to be daily. We've changed up our 50 point check sheets so that they reflect "how bad" an item is. If it's just worn but acceptable, check the yellow box. IF worn to the point where it needs immediate replacement, hit the orange box. If it's a safety item, check the red box. If ANY of the red boxes are checked, the vehicle doesn't leave the shop until customer signs a release. Why? Cause in my decades of experience I've learned that customers are always right but sometimes they're wrong. "Ain't nothing wrong with it I'll pay for the oil change and drive it". Ok cool, a year later the lower control arm falls off of the ball joint and vehicle crashes and burns, taking the driver, passenger, and kids with it. Shop that did the oil change is now under investigation because they "worked on it" previously. That waiver saves your butt-and has done so a few times in the past, particularly with motorcycle riders. Next to PDI check list, it's THE most important document that us shop guys use! And now that we are selling UTV's that can go 100mph (or more in some cases), it gets even more important.
 
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D2Cat

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I can only speak for the dealer I work at and for the one I used to work at (Kubota previously, Polaris now).

Yes, there is "some" truth to what you've said. But it is not our (or my) policy to sell parts and service that is not needed, and never has been-nor will it ever be in the future. Where the miscommunication occurs is when "I" (the tech) does an oil change for example. While the oil's draining I'm gonna go shake the wheels. Loose ball joint? Write it on the repair order. Then SM gets the RO and calls customer. "Ok sir/madam, we've completed the requested service but while the tech was under it he noticed that your LF ball joint is loose. If you decide to repair it-and we HIGHLY recommend doing so, the cost to do it is this much".

Owner never noticed any loose ball joint so he or she's gonna throw a fit about it. "You're just trying to get over on me. Ain't nothing wrong with it, I'll pay for the oil change and I'm out of this dump, y'all are con artists". And then 15 minutes later it's posted all over social media for the whole world to see. "They tried to get over on me and since I'm a certified Youtube mechanic I know everything and what they're trying to do is wrong!"

Believe me I see and hear this ALL the time. Used to be daily. We've changed up our 50 point check sheets so that they reflect "how bad" an item is. If it's just worn but acceptable, check the yellow box. IF worn to the point where it needs immediate replacement, hit the orange box. If it's a safety item, check the red box. If ANY of the red boxes are checked, the vehicle doesn't leave the shop until customer signs a release. Why? Cause in my decades of experience I've learned that customers are always right but sometimes they're wrong. "Ain't nothing wrong with it I'll pay for the oil change and drive it". Ok cool, a year later the lower control arm falls off of the ball joint and vehicle crashes and burns, taking the driver, passenger, and kids with it. Shop that did the oil change is now under investigation because they "worked on it" previously. That waiver saves your butt-and has done so a few times in the past, particularly with motorcycle riders. Next to PDI check list, it's THE most important document that us shop guys use! And now that we are selling UTV's that can go 100mph (or more in some cases), it gets even more important.
I said, "....not all but some!"

I'm sure the lowest man on the totem pole often does a job that makes the rest of the team look bad also.

I had my truck at the local dealership for some work and made note to be sure to rotate the tires while it's there. Service manager called me up to tell me it's ready. I specifically ask if the tires had been rotated, and the answer was yes. I went in, paid what was due and went out to drive off. I notice on the driver side rear a yellow mark is at the valve stem. I had that tire repaired about a week earlier. It was still on the left rear, not rotated. I went in and asked the SM about the rotation of tires. We (he and I) walked out to the service area and the "tech" said, "Oh it didn't need rotated."

I've never gone back to that dealership, simply because truth is important to me. If I ask for something to be done, tell me to my face I'm a fool and don't need it done. Don't not do it and act like it was done.
 
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Tractor Gal

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Very interesting thread...and thoughts. Each Kubota owner would have valuable input even though "we" can't agree on everything. The consensus appears to be that Kubota is a solid brand with machines of varying HP and accessories. We've all learned...not just from using a Kubota...that machines (and bodies) wear out. Despite meticulous detail in maintenance, things happen.

I've only had my 2004BX23D for 4 years. I bought it without knowing much and even sight unseen other than pictures! (In truth, I still don't know much, but I digress.) The machine was used and had had very little care, imho. There were some issues. For example, the first time I used it, I was in the field heading for the creek. There was no steering! Turns out that the steering cylinder needed to be replaced. That was my first thrust into repairs for this little baby but I did it. The transmission oil drain plug had been stripped and the constant oil leak nearly drove me crazy but I finally got that resolved as well. A few other incidents along the way, but everything has been repaired, thanks to the knowledge and willing help from the real mechanics on this board.

So, to look at the overall picture...which is what I'm getting at...these machines are really something. How much back-breaking work this little thing has saved! And, I'm not a Spring chick. :) It's going to need something going forward, of that I can be certain. I hope it will not be major. If it is, the decision will need to be made. Is the repair investment worth it to me? If not, sell the thing. Meanwhile, enjoy tinkering to keep it in good shape. I've removed the oxidized paint to make the little thing shine, always keep fluids checked/changed, and use caution/care to not ask it to do something that it was not designed to do. Beyond that, it's out of my control...but things wear out.

The dealers, as stated above, have to make a profit. The parts prices do seem high but do we want those dealers there when we really need them? I think we do. As mentioned above, this board has saved me bunches of times when I am befuddled. Dragging this thing to a dealer or shop of any kind would be a major deal. We are honored to have people on here who really "know their stuff", and take the time to try to help. I enjoy reading the posts so that I can learn a few things, hoping I won't have to encounter that particular problem.

So...buy parts or don't buy parts. For me, as I am able, I'll buy the parts when needed. I've learned that most of the time, OEM is best. If I really can't justify that cost, after-market will have to do...with apologies to the BX. In the big picture, the cost to repair is just a fact of life.

Tractor Gal
 
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mcmxi

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In the big picture, the cost to repair is just a fact of life.

Tractor Gal
Well said! (y)

That "cost to repair" is related to "frequency of repair" and in my experience it's very low with Kubotas. I had a BX25D for five years and the only money I had to put into it in terms of repair was to replace three hoses on the backhoe which was something like $100 all in.

Kubota has proven to be incredibly reliable for me and it's why I'm brand loyal. The same goes for Land Pride implements. Speaking of Kubota, as a brand they're very humble and tend not to exaggerate performance features or capabilities the way other manufacturers do. How often have we read a post where Kioti or TYM or JD lists higher capacities for the loader or 3-point on a "comparable" model without any real-world data.

Yesterday Neil Messick posted a video showing the real-world capabilities of the loader on an L2502 compared to the published specs. Kubota is an understated brand and that comes to performance and reliability.

 
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fried1765

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Nov 14, 2019
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Eastham, Ma
I said, "....not all but some!"

I'm sure the lowest man on the totem pole often does a job that makes the rest of the team look bad also.

I had my truck at the local dealership for some work and made note to be sure to rotate the tires while it's there. Service manager called me up to tell me it's ready. I specifically ask if the tires had been rotated, and the answer was yes. I went in, paid what was due and went out to drive off. I notice on the passenger side rear a yellow mark is at the valve stem. I had that tire repaired about a week earlier. It was still on the left rear, not rotated. I went in and asked the SM about the rotation of tires. We (he and I) walked out to the service area and the "tech" said, "Oh it didn't need rotated."

I've never gone back to that dealership, simply because truth is important to me. If I ask for something to be done, tell me to my face I'm a fool and don't need it done. Don't not do it and act like it was done.
Many, if not most, are not mechanically aware enough, to notice what those of us here on OTT do notice.
Remember: WE are ALL equipment/machinery nuts!
 

Sidekick

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Kioti CK2620SE cab, RTV-X, BX2360, Z726XKW-3-60
Jul 29, 2023
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Well said! (y)

That "cost to repair" is related to "frequency of repair" and in my experience it's very low with Kubotas. I had a BX25D for five years and the only money I had to put into it in terms of repair was to replace three hoses on the backhoe which was something like $100 all in.

Kubota has proven to be incredibly reliable for me and it's why I'm brand loyal. The same goes for Land Pride implements. Speaking of Kubota, as a brand they're very humble and tend not to exaggerate performance features or capabilities the way other manufacturers do. How often have we read a post where Kioti or TYM or JD lists higher capacities for the loader or 3-point on a "comparable" model without any real-world data.

Yesterday Neil Messick posted a video showing the real-world capabilities of the loader on an L2502 compared to the published specs. Kubota is an understated brand and that comes to performance and reliability.

I saw that and he did that on a perfectly level solid piece of ground with a nicely centered load that doesn't prove anything to most operators. The capability is usually specified with an offset center of gravity by all manufacturers that is lower then a fixed COG for safe operation. Also without the hoe the front axle would be overloaded with that load. Just youtube entertainment when presented by a dealer. They are only underrated to those that haven't seen real world testing procedures.
 

mcmxi

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They are only underrated to those that haven't seen real world testing procedures.
Get over yourself. I've seen and done plenty of real world testing and they're underrated. You want me to post pictures of my MX6000 and M6060 lifting heavy loads on uneven surfaces. I do it all the time.

Kubota is well known to be very conservative in their literature when it comes to many aspects of their products. That was the point Neil was making.

he did that on a perfectly level solid piece of ground with a nicely centered load
Which is what the specs in the manual are assuming.
 
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Sidekick

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Kioti CK2620SE cab, RTV-X, BX2360, Z726XKW-3-60
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Get over yourself. I've seen and done plenty of real world testing and they're underrated. You want me to post pictures of my MX6000 and M6060 lifting heavy loads on uneven surfaces. I do it all the time.

Kubota is well known to be very conservative in their literature when it comes to many aspects of their products. That was the point Neil was making.



Which is what the specs in the manual are assuming.
Tell OSHA that if you have an accident.
 

Elliott in GA

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LX 2610SU w/535,LP RCR1860,FDR1660,SGC0554,FSP500, DD BBX60005
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I have always had very good experiences with auto and tractor dealerships.

My Tundra had an oil change last month. Full synthetic and tire rotation (bought the tires from dealership at the best price around - so the rotation is always free) for $79, and I was out is less than an hour. I doubt they made any money on the service. Oh, I bought the truck from them for $4K below MSRP (the best deal I could find, and it came with an included lifetime powertrain warranty).

I always see people saying they change their own oil, but they do not say whether they rotate their tires too.

I will do my own 200 hour service on the LX in the next few weeks, but I will send it to the dealer for the 400 hour service (at 400 hours or 6 months before my warranty expires, which ever comes first).
 

jaxs

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B1750HST
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When you’re in your ‘70’s…. most workers at Any Place….seem to be ‘kids’…

But, I don’t see too many “kids” at WM. Unfortunately, Besides the usual Moms and Dads tryin’ to make a livin’… I see lots and lots of Old Folks without pensions having to earn bread and meds money….
Probably because Texans have to work to pay bills since Texas doesn't pass out many rocking chair checks.