The right Kubota for me - please help

[Hillyhome]

Hi folks,

Thanks for having me here. To make a long story short my wife and I finally bought the homestead we've been saving for. We'll be on 17 hilly acres in central Pennsylvania - just a little upgrade from the .08 acre postage stamp our city home currently sits upon.

I grew up on a small farm, and my dad always used a Kubota, from mowing to plowing snow to skidding trees. He finally sold a mid-70's compact that never failed him, but he had a hard time getting parts. His new model has a hydrostatic transmission and is comparably a JOY to operate, in the limited capacity in which I had the opportunity to do so.

So I'm pretty solid on getting a compact Kubota of my own. My needs are a little different than his, however, and I hope that some of you knowledgeable and experienced folks could help steer me in the right direction for what I should be looking into as far as a few models and accessories go.

Of the 17 acres, about half is a woodlot, last managed about 40 years ago. I intend to heat our home primarily with hardwood grown on the property using existing (though hardly recognizable) switchbacks cut into the steep hillside. I'm going to be spending a lot of time felling and skidding this winter just to get to the standing dead ash.

In addition to helping me manage the woodlot, another major job is going to be moving snow from the gravel driveway, which is about 600 feet long and averages about a 9% grade, with a few steeper spots.

Finally, the major portion of land that isn't wooded is overgrown pasture. I'm sure we'll end up with some goats, but in the coming years we're planning to farm several acres: fruit trees, vegetables, and some grains.

There will be very little, if any grass to mow that can't be easily taken care of with a push-mower- So a mower deck isn't at the forefront of my mind. I'm mostly nervous about when the snow falls on that steep, gravel driveway. Dad had a rear blade on the 3-point, but I don't know if rear or front would work best for my situation.

I'm all ears for any advice you could take the time to share with me, and I'd much appreciate it.

 

[BobInSD]

I'm new here myself, and do not know Kubota all that well, but congrats on your new place. And welcome.

 

[Roadworthy]

Welcome to OTT. Perhaps you could give us some idea what you plan to do with your seventeen hilly acres. They could be forested or they could be fields. Perhaps there's a big rocky gully in the middle. Maybe you even have a ten acre pond on the property. That information would go a long way toward recommendations.

 

[Hillyhome]

I'm new here myself, and do not know Kubota all that well, but congrats on your new place. And welcome.

Thank you!

 

[Hillyhome]

Welcome to OTT. Perhaps you could give us some idea what you plan to do with your seventeen hilly acres. They could be forested or they could be fields. Perhaps there's a big rocky gully in the middle. Maybe you even have a ten acre pond on the property. That information would go a long way toward recommendations.

Sure thing!

Of the 17 acres a little more than half is wooded. From best I can tell without a proper survey it's primarily hardwood, Oak, Maple, Hickory, and Cherry. The sellers let me know that it was last managed 40 years ago. It's on a steeper hillside, and an old overgrown switchback back was cut the last time it was cut. I plan to survey it, and hopefully remove any standing dead ash to use for firewood next year.

The lower section of the hill flattens at the area where the house sits, about one acre of flat, push-mowable land that wouldn't really be the best spot for growing, as it sits north of the house and gets quite a bit of shade. South and east of the house the hill continues to roll. We'll have a good 7 acres of rolling pasture acreage that generally extends South and pitches downward to slope East. Part of this area was once used as a paddock and horse turnout. As this land is the least steep, it's where we're hoping to be able to farm a few acres, whatever the land lets us do. Whatever is too hilly we'll want to relegate to pasture goats, and we're grateful that it's already pretty well fenced in, along with a 4-stall barn. I hope these photos help to explain the lay of the land better than I've been able to!

 

[Roadworthy]

I really like your little piece of heaven - other than the PA winters. I left them behind many years ago. It appears you may be doing something with perhaps eight acres. Do you plan to mow the fields, do any plowing, or what do you plan to use the tractor for? I mostly just mow my ten acres with my L2501 but also use it for some dirt work, moving rocks, etc. I specifically did not exceed 25 horsepower due to Tier 4 EPA emission requirements. I think if you get something older than 2014 you avoid them. Tractors with a front PTO as well like the B, BX, and possibly the LX series lend themselves better to front snow throwers. I think they'll all take a belly mower as well. Choice of tires is another consideration. I don't ever put the tractor in the yard so I have ag tires. Four wheel drive is an advantage and I've grown fond of the HST transmission. Personal preference comes into play here. Go sit on a few tractors and get a feel.

 

[ayak]

For that driveway grade in winter, you’d likely be better off with R1s for tires instead of R4s, plus you can widen and more readily throw chains on an L2501, if you went that route. I have about a 5-6 degree grade in gravel (snow blower may be too exciting with gravel) and there are a few times I wished I had gone with R1s instead, myself.

 

[Hillyhome]

I really like your little piece of heaven - other than the PA winters. I left them behind many years ago. It appears you may be doing something with perhaps eight acres. Do you plan to mow the fields, do any plowing, or what do you plan to use the tractor for? I mostly just mow my ten acres with my L2501 but also use it for some dirt work, moving rocks, etc. I specifically did not exceed 25 horsepower due to Tier 4 EPA emission requirements. I think if you get something older than 2014 you avoid them. Tractors with a front PTO as well like the B, BX, and possibly the LX series lend themselves better to front snow throwers. I think they'll all take a belly mower as well. Choice of tires is another consideration. I don't ever put the tractor in the yard so I have ag tires. Four wheel drive is an advantage and I've grown fond of the HST transmission. Personal preference comes into play here. Go sit on a few tractors and get a feel.

Thank you, we're all very excited!

Primary uses that I can expect:

- Skidding logs, unlikely anything bigger than 16 inches diameter, 8-12 average
- Clearing bush and brush from overgrown switchbacks
- Leveling some portion of our pasture, clearing and rototilling 2-5 acres
- Plowing snow from the driveway in the winter (think typical PA mountain wet snow, not something I'm even thinking of attempting with a blower

I'm not planning on doing much lawn mowing that I won't be able to get with a push mower, just that flat area around the house.

 

[Hillyhome]

For that driveway grade in winter, you’d likely be better off with R1s for tires instead of R4s, plus you can widen and more readily throw chains on an L2501, if you went that route. I have about a 5-6 degree grade in gravel (snow blower may be too exciting with gravel) and there are a few times I wished I had gone with R1s instead, myself.

Thanks for the tip! I don't plan to have much of a yard to tear up, so I'm definitely thinking R1 is going to be best all-around for my plans!

 

[BigG]

I am with the others a L2501 HST will do you well. the R1 ag tires or R14 tires if they have them yet would be my choice A front end loader with skid steer quick attach. At least one hydraulic remote on the rear to run a hydraulic top link. If you ever plan on working the woods a 3rd function for a front grapple would be nice. A 5 foot box blade would be my choice for the driveway maintenance. Others will say to get a land plane which work well from what I understand but they are limited to their usefulness and they are expensive. A 5 foot rotary cutter or bush hog for mowing the pastures and fence rows. With the slopes you have I would load the tires and budget for wheel weights in case you find out you need better traction.

You state that you w.ant to farm a few acres. Do you mean that you want to put in a garden? If so a used 1 bottom 3 point plow would work along with a disk. If money is not a problem a 5 foot tiller would work nicely behind a L2501.

I do not know if you are familiar with tractors or tractors with hills. If this is new to you please ask the dealer for safety information or for the county extension office for safety information. Read the owners manual from cover to cover. And if it does not feel right do not do it. The tractors can be used on hills safely but it takes practice and planning.

I like your idea of using the goats but you must have GOOD fencing. They are little devils to contain.

I wish you and your bride well in your new home.

 

[Hillyhome]

I am with the others a L2501 HST will do you well. the R1 ag tires or R14 tires if they have them yet would be my choice A front end loader with skid steer quick attach. At least one hydraulic remote on the rear to run a hydraulic top link. If you ever plan on working the woods a 3rd function for a front grapple would be nice. A 5 foot box blade would be my choice for the driveway maintenance. Others will say to get a land plane which work well from what I understand but they are limited to their usefulness and they are expensive. A 5 foot rotary cutter or bush hog for mowing the pastures and fence rows. With the slopes you have I would load the tires and budget for wheel weights in case you find out you need better traction.

You state that you w.ant to farm a few acres. Do you mean that you want to put in a garden? If so a used 1 bottom 3 point plow would work along with a disk. If money is not a problem a 5 foot tiller would work nicely behind a L2501.

I do not know if you are familiar with tractors or tractors with hills. If this is new to you please ask the dealer for safety information or for the county extension office for safety information. Read the owners manual from cover to cover. And if it does not feel right do not do it. The tractors can be used on hills safely but it takes practice and planning.

I like your idea of using the goats but you must have GOOD fencing. They are little devils to contain.

I wish you and your bride well in your new home.

Thank you very much for your advice!

As you surmised, I don't have much experience with tractors. I grew up using my dad's Kubota (Mid 70's, unsure which model) to mow the hilly lawn with a belly mower deck and drag a rear blade on the 3-point hitch when the snow came to our half mile but FLAT driveway

That was almost 20 years ago though, and I'm very much out of tune. I recently went by to check out his new BX model, and the HST really blew me away!

Thank you for your suggestions. I will absolutely read the manual and gradually build upon successes and failures as my confidence grows. I'll also be checking out plows and disks- money is always a big consideration. If we hadn't saved every nickel these last 8 years living in the city we'd never have the downpayment for the homestead. Given the choice on any implements, until they start giving them out for free, I'm going to be on the frugal side. Maybe that means renting for a few seasons when it comes to gardening, but for plowing the snow and skidding trees I think they're going to be frequent jobs and I won't be saving any money by renting.

Goatwise, we're going to explore the portable electric fencing options for the first couple years while we build up and try to cultivate hedgerows. All fingers crossed on that one

 

[Oliver]

I agree with roadworthy and and BigG on an L2501 (I love mine) only I would not fill the tires instead put that cost toward a $300 ballast box for when using a grapple or loader. Unlike filled tires it will cantilever the loader weight off the front axle and the tractor will be much more maneuverable in the woods with a ballast box than with using an implement such as a box blade for ballast. https://www.palletforks.com/3-point...int-category-1-tractor-attachment/191431.html
L2501 is a great tractor, simple without the emission stuff, but filled tires add unnecessary weight that will be a disadvantage zapping power when using say a rotary cutter going up steep hills. Not to mention complicating flat tire repair.
The bucket works fine pushing and scooping snow especially down hill.
Although not necessary I ended up adding Bro-Tec 2" rear spacers which really made a nice improvement is stability on slopes and rough terrain. Beautiful land btw congratulations!

 

[Roadworthy]

Sometimes I learn by reading the posts of others. Oliver makes a great deal of sense. I was considering using my box blade for ballast. Now I'm contrmplating making a ballast box instead of loading my tires.

 

[edritchey]

I'm going to suggest a cab tractor like a 3560 or 4060 and get the 3rd function to operate the hydraulics on a 7' angle plow off the loader. You have a long driveway and will be out there plowing snow for quite awhile. Also looks like you'll have a fair amount of time mowing and or bush hogging in the summer months. The loader will be stronger on the grand L series and so will the drive train. I'd go with the R4 tires they handle weight better for loader work because they have much stronger sidewalls. If you need more traction you can always add chains. Good luck with whatever you choose. EDR

 

[chim]

I'm going to suggest a cab tractor like a 3560 or 4060 and get the 3rd function to operate the hydraulics on a 7' angle plow off the loader. You have a long driveway and will be out there plowing snow for quite awhile. Also looks like you'll have a fair amount of time mowing and or bush hogging in the summer months. The loader will be stronger on the grand L series and so will the drive train. I'd go with the R4 tires they handle weight better for loader work because they have much stronger sidewalls. If you need more traction you can always add chains. Good luck with whatever you choose. EDR

I'm with Ed on this. Don't start out too small or the "right Kubota" will be your next one.

I filled the rear tires on the last three tractors and use them for mowing. I plow snow using R4's without chains (I did groove all 4 tires though). For snow removal I've had a blower, blades front and back. The hot ticket for me is a power angle 8 foot truck plow modified for the FEL. In process is a 55 gallon drum for added rear weight for plowing. I have implements that could serve as rear weight but don't need any of them in Winter. The idea of the weight being compact and not sticking out to snag stuff like a blade is appealing.

 

[ayak]

You may learn as I did, that coming down that steep gravel driveway in winter will be every bit as exciting as going up. I won’t do it now unless my HST is in LOW range, 4WD, *and* I have something hanging off the back (I went with a box blade even though I also have a ballast box). I did choose to fill my rear tires (washer fluid), which I ultimately ended up grooving for better traction (they’re R4s).

 

[Bmyers]

The L3560 or L4060 will cost more than the L2501, but you are also getting a lot more tractor. Along with the comfort of cab in the 35 or 40, since you are getting bigger tractor, you will have the ability for bigger loader and larger implements. Moving trees and brush will be easy with a grapple attached to the tractor. The bigger tractor will allow for moving big logs. In full disclosure, I have the L3560 and I have been extremely please.

A couple things I learned. One, I wish I had the 3rd function installed when I bought the tractor, instead I bought it afterwards. The grapple has been my most used implement. Second, I added the rear work lights, not something I use a lot, but when I need them, it is nice. Finally, I'm still thinking about adding a rear wiper because my back windshield gets dirty when mowing.

Other than that, I have been very pleased. No issues with the regen. Tractor has performed outstanding. The HST+ transmission should be on all of the Kubota tractors, it is that nice.

 

[Oliver]

The L3560 or L4060 will cost a lot more than the L2501, but you are also getting more tractor. Along with the comfort of cab in the 35 or 40 which costs even more and will be more of a hindrance in the woods. Since you are getting bigger tractor, you will have the ability for bigger loader and larger implements which also cost more. Moving trees and brush will be easy with a grapple attached to a tractor. The bigger tractor will allow for moving big logs. In full disclosure, I have the L3560 and I have been extremely please.

A couple things I learned. One, I wish I had the 3rd function installed when I bought the tractor, instead I bought it afterwards. The grapple has been my most used implement......

All good points but for another take I just commented (in bold). Yes an L60 might lift an 18' long oak log while with an L01 it'd need to be sawed to 11'. And operate a 7' blade opposed to a 6', and 6' flail mower vs a 5' for an L2501. So you may accomplish your tasks spending less time on your tractor (but remember we're just talking 17 acres). If this is important enough to justify a larger, more complicated, more expensive to buy and operate, machine, and money isn't a concern....... or you feel a cab's advantages (heater and AC) will offset the disadvantages (cost, more top heavy, height, less maneuverable in trees), consider the larger L60 tractor.
I agree with ordering a third function with the tractor if you plan to buy a grapple. I use my grapple a lot as well.

 

[greg86z28]

What's your budget?

Price out the following machines:
LX2610SU
L2501
L3560

While the recommendations here are sound, if your budget cannot bear the cost of a larger tractor, there is nothing that says you wouldn't be able to accomplish a lot with a smaller unit - it might just take you longer and you might need to be slightly more creative at times.

 

[ayak]

All good points but for another take I just commented (in bold). Yes an L60 might lift an 18' long oak log while with an L01 it'd need to be sawed to 11'. And operate a 7' blade opposed to a 6', and 6' flail mower vs a 5' for an L2501. So you may accomplish your tasks spending less time on your tractor (but remember we're just talking 17 acres). If this is important enough to justify a larger, more complicated, more expensive to buy and operate, machine, and money isn't a concern....... or you feel a cab's advantages (heater and AC) will offset the disadvantages (cost, more top heavy, height, less maneuverable in trees), consider the larger L60 tractor.
I agree with ordering a third function with the tractor if you plan to buy a grapple. I use my grapple a lot as well.

Definitely consider budgeting for a 3rd-Function Valve and a Grapple (and Quick Attach on the front). Added the valve myself later from Summit and the Grapple has been indispensable. I’m pretty much doing all the same stuff you mentioned (also on hills) but also running a rotary cutter, so I went up slightly (in motor only) to an L3301. While the thought of a cab is very appealing, I likely would have had mine torn off by now working in the woods.