This won't be easy to hear but I believe it's slipped onto a smaller set of splines on the crank....
I'm sure someone with experience will confirm.
The first B5100 Delorean
- Thread starter johngwalsh
- Start date
I'm sure someone with experience will confirm.
John,
So far so good. Good idea with pounding it all the way around. I believe something similar was mentioned in this thread as well by Rob. He was right on track!
Yes, the hub that you see is attached to the crankshaft via more splines. If you can't get between the hub flange and the pulley with the bearing splitter, you might consider welding a couple of bolts to the hub flange face so you can use a puller and press against the nose of the crank down through the center of the hub. Heat the thing red hot while using the puller on it...
I've attached a pic to show you what the "inside" of the hub where it attaches to the crank looks like.
Keep going as you're almost done. Might as well bite the bullet because if you ever need to take the pulley (or front cover) off for any reason, you are going to have to get the flange off anyway to get access to the nut that holds the pulley on.
Nice work!
Good luck,
Steve
So far so good. Good idea with pounding it all the way around. I believe something similar was mentioned in this thread as well by Rob. He was right on track!
Yes, the hub that you see is attached to the crankshaft via more splines. If you can't get between the hub flange and the pulley with the bearing splitter, you might consider welding a couple of bolts to the hub flange face so you can use a puller and press against the nose of the crank down through the center of the hub. Heat the thing red hot while using the puller on it...
I've attached a pic to show you what the "inside" of the hub where it attaches to the crank looks like.
Keep going as you're almost done. Might as well bite the bullet because if you ever need to take the pulley (or front cover) off for any reason, you are going to have to get the flange off anyway to get access to the nut that holds the pulley on.
Nice work!
Good luck,
Steve
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John,
One other idea - you could weld three fine thread nuts over the three slots in the flange, then run bolts through them (and the slots) to press against the pulley face.
Or, they could be used with a standard puller and some long bolts to pull while using the crank nose to press against.
Only problem is the nuts tend to go out of round when welding so one would have to watch the heat.
Just an idea.
Steve
One other idea - you could weld three fine thread nuts over the three slots in the flange, then run bolts through them (and the slots) to press against the pulley face.
Or, they could be used with a standard puller and some long bolts to pull while using the crank nose to press against.
Only problem is the nuts tend to go out of round when welding so one would have to watch the heat.
Just an idea.
Steve
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Rob
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Lifetime Member
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B6000DT / B7100DP /B8200DT/L225/Globe PTO Chipper/Lewis Backhoe/huxley TR66
thats great news john , only just seen your update re the splined problem.
Well you know what they say," If you've got a problem, then you only have to ask".
That's what friends are for....or something like that but in an online sort of way...
go get that drink you deserve it.
rob
Well you know what they say," If you've got a problem, then you only have to ask".
That's what friends are for....or something like that but in an online sort of way...
go get that drink you deserve it.
rob
John,
What did you end up deciding to do, leave the flange adapter on the engine for now or did you end up taking it off?
If you took it off, it'd be great to know what ultimately worked.
Just curious...
Steve
What did you end up deciding to do, leave the flange adapter on the engine for now or did you end up taking it off?
If you took it off, it'd be great to know what ultimately worked.
Just curious...
Steve
Hi Steve,
Haven't made much progress with this to be honest.I tried using a pullers....nothing,I made a strong back that sat behind the spline and tried pull it off the the inside splined shaft and nothing...not a budge.I decided I'd (gently) put a wrench on the pulley and spline.... in case that in my application here that its screwed on....It turned about 2mm and stopped.So long story short I'm still stumped.Now to be honest its been kind of cold here so my hours in the garage has been seriously limited.but I havent given up yet and Ive made a stove for my garage so hopefully I'll get a bit more time in there.
Haven't made much progress with this to be honest.I tried using a pullers....nothing,I made a strong back that sat behind the spline and tried pull it off the the inside splined shaft and nothing...not a budge.I decided I'd (gently) put a wrench on the pulley and spline.... in case that in my application here that its screwed on....It turned about 2mm and stopped.So long story short I'm still stumped.Now to be honest its been kind of cold here so my hours in the garage has been seriously limited.but I havent given up yet and Ive made a stove for my garage so hopefully I'll get a bit more time in there.
Rob
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
B6000DT / B7100DP /B8200DT/L225/Globe PTO Chipper/Lewis Backhoe/huxley TR66
Hi John,
You're now into a somewhat more tricky job now, if you have been unbale to pull the adapter boss off so far, the chances are its rusted on are very high.
I did mention in an earlier reply that you may well come up against this problem due to the nature of your initial problem with the pto shaft .
The adapter boss is a sliding fit onto the crankshaft and secured with bolts to the crankshaft pulley wheel, the splines are a very snug fit to be honest, and with all that salt air/water in your location its going to a right pain to shift.
Your options for an effective removal of the boss are limited now due to the proximity to the timing cover/ crank seals etc and also the very high possibility of causing damange to the end of the crankshaft.
Using excessive heat is not ideal, nor is geting brutal with a hammer.
You may want to try the "hole & fluid " method again, but i think given all considerations i would carefully cut it off.
As per before, i'd run a parallel cuts along two or three sides, then use a smaller dremmel or similar to do the cuts on the boss face, then gently pry the cuts open a small amount, cover the boss with P fluid and leave for a short while.
have a cup of tea then go back and gently leaver or pry it off, it should come of without to much force.
This method may hopefully keep the crank and other ass parts in the best possible condition and avoid a more costly repair bill..
hope this helps a bit.
rob
You're now into a somewhat more tricky job now, if you have been unbale to pull the adapter boss off so far, the chances are its rusted on are very high.
I did mention in an earlier reply that you may well come up against this problem due to the nature of your initial problem with the pto shaft .
The adapter boss is a sliding fit onto the crankshaft and secured with bolts to the crankshaft pulley wheel, the splines are a very snug fit to be honest, and with all that salt air/water in your location its going to a right pain to shift.
Your options for an effective removal of the boss are limited now due to the proximity to the timing cover/ crank seals etc and also the very high possibility of causing damange to the end of the crankshaft.
Using excessive heat is not ideal, nor is geting brutal with a hammer.
You may want to try the "hole & fluid " method again, but i think given all considerations i would carefully cut it off.
As per before, i'd run a parallel cuts along two or three sides, then use a smaller dremmel or similar to do the cuts on the boss face, then gently pry the cuts open a small amount, cover the boss with P fluid and leave for a short while.
have a cup of tea then go back and gently leaver or pry it off, it should come of without to much force.
This method may hopefully keep the crank and other ass parts in the best possible condition and avoid a more costly repair bill..
hope this helps a bit.
rob
Hi guys,
Thanks for the comments and advice..I know I know ye all told me it would end up in me chopping it.But I really dont want to.Rob I tried drilling the spline...man thats tough metal.(obviously hardened)I'll need to get a cobalt drill bit I think.If this fails .............I might run the risk of leaving it on ....just get the engine soda blasted and painted and fingers crossed I wont need to change the seals on the crank for 30 more years.
This saturday I'm testing the emc with a 12 volt battery..so if this is scrap its grinder time no matter what.
Thanks for the comments and advice..I know I know ye all told me it would end up in me chopping it.But I really dont want to.Rob I tried drilling the spline...man thats tough metal.(obviously hardened)I'll need to get a cobalt drill bit I think.If this fails .............I might run the risk of leaving it on ....just get the engine soda blasted and painted and fingers crossed I wont need to change the seals on the crank for 30 more years
.This saturday I'm testing the emc with a 12 volt battery..so if this is scrap its grinder time no matter what.
John,
Before I tried chopping it off, I'd use a rosebud and get that thing RED hot while using a puller on it at the same time.
Yes, you will ruin the front seal, but oh well... Shouldn't hurt the crank and it might just be enough to get it to come loose.
Worst case, you end up slicing it like Rob suggests.
Good luck,
Steve
Before I tried chopping it off, I'd use a rosebud and get that thing RED hot while using a puller on it at the same time.
Yes, you will ruin the front seal, but oh well... Shouldn't hurt the crank and it might just be enough to get it to come loose.
Worst case, you end up slicing it like Rob suggests.
Good luck,
Steve
Decided not to cut open the spline...tested the emc and it still works .So I've sent it for soda blasting and painting.
Ive finished the lever for the throttle and started on making a new sump.have a look.
Priced new brake shoes from the local kubota agent....746 euro for the pair of wheels..holy shit.I priced them on ebay and got a price of 130 dollars delivered.Do people think this is a reasonable price?
.So I've sent it for soda blasting and painting.Ive finished the lever for the throttle and started on making a new sump.have a look.
Priced new brake shoes from the local kubota agent....746 euro for the pair of wheels..holy shit.I priced them on ebay and got a price of 130 dollars delivered.Do people think this is a reasonable price?
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Looks like good progress. I like the sump your making and was curious, is it just mild steel or something special?
KUBOTA4900
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KUBOTA M4900SDC & LA100C LOADER,PALLET FORKS,BRUSH HOG BOX SCRAPER 3PT HITCH
Wowi hav seen some resorations but this job you are doing replicating parts from stainless drillin cuttin shapping turnin parts on a lathe is one hella of a great job wow im am extremely inpressed
Trailer loaded with my disassembled little tractor...and the completed throttle lever with thumb pull..before and after.
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There's no stopping the man.....I hear he's gonna carve a set of tires from solid rubber blocks when he's done the tinwork!
No dont think im up that to that level of workmanship. Im still drooling over Wildfires Modification...now that's some serious stuff.There's no stopping the man.....I hear he's gonna carve a set of tires from solid rubber blocks when he's done the tinwork!
Dave I'm coming close to reassembly and I'll be looking to you for a bit of assistance over the next few weeks if your up for it.I'm caught for pictures and a few sizes of all the small pieces that completely rotted off my tractor....no template to work with.Its mainly springs and linkages.Hopefully it wont be too much.
How's the weather in Brittany?
No problem John. I'm happy to help if I can. My PC went belly-up a couple of weeks ago and I couldn't get easy access to the 'net but no difficulty now to keep an eye on the forum.
Weather in Brittany? Still waiting for winter to finish. Cold northerlies for a week now and needing to get stuff planted. My brand new polytunnel lasted three days before the wind piped up and reduced it to a twisted torn heap of scrap. Anyone got designs for a concrete one?
Weather in Brittany? Still waiting for winter to finish. Cold northerlies for a week now and needing to get stuff planted. My brand new polytunnel lasted three days before the wind piped up and reduced it to a twisted torn heap of scrap. Anyone got designs for a concrete one?
Im back!!!! Ive got my little bota back from the the sodablast man.The epic rebuild starts from here.My soggy brain is struggling to remember howit went back together.Im uploading from my phone for the first time so bear with me.In the pics my new sump complete with old dip pipe and the rebuild so far.more pics to follow.
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Nice to have you back, John. Love those photos of the main sections just painted in Kubota blue. I was wondering how you intend to finish the stainless parts once the fabrication is finished. My research into how stainless holds up in the marine environment suggests that the more you can polish the metal the more resistant it is to corrosion. The polishing process seems to alter the surface characteristics significantly and is particularly useful near welded areas. A fully polished stainless tractor might just be a little too bling bling for most people but maybe after moderate polishing you might consider hitting it with something to give it a satin finish, leaving it more like the ill-fated Delorean. What are you thoughts?