The Bushwacker !!!!!!!!!!

Flintknapper

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L2350DT
May 3, 2022
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Deep East Texas
The 'saw tooth' blade that comes with the Brush Cutter is fine for coarse grass, weeds, vines and VERY small saplings (1/2") but not much else.

'Chain Saw' type blades cut the quickest but be prepared to sharpen them often....and ONLY use good quality blades such as Forester or Beaver Blade. Cheap Chinese versions will literally come apart with not much use and you don't want that happening at the speed they rotate.

Carbide tipped blades (I have found Renegade 9" to be the best value and best cutting) last a long time and take a lot punishment. Use carbide if your work will have you cutting close to the ground and hitting dirt is unavoidable.
 

D2Cat

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L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
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About 15 years ago I had a blade with chain saw teeth. Had about 8 or 10 teeth. Was USA made. At some point I had chipped off several of the teeth and the local saw shop said those blade were no longer available.

I went to another saw shop and asked for the largest chain he had. It was tucked way back on a shelf of chain and he said he never used it. I bought about 30" of it. I cleaned off the remainder of the teeth on the blade I had and used the wire welder to weld that chain to the disc. I'm still using that blade. I has teeth about 1/2" long and all the way around the disc. It's a cutting jessy!
 

Flintknapper

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L2350DT
May 3, 2022
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Deep East Texas
About 15 years ago I had a blade with chain saw teeth. Had about 8 or 10 teeth. Was USA made. At some point I had chipped off several of the teeth and the local saw shop said those blade were no longer available.

I went to another saw shop and asked for the largest chain he had. It was tucked way back on a shelf of chain and he said he never used it. I bought about 30" of it. I cleaned off the remainder of the teeth on the blade I had and used the wire welder to weld that chain to the disc. I'm still using that blade. I has teeth about 1/2" long and all the way around the disc. It's a cutting jessy!
Chain Saw type blades cut the fastest.....hands down. No question about that.

If I know I will be cutting larger brush (mostly Chinese Privet here) I will put a 9" Beaver Blade on it. It is a shock absorbing design and the chains are replaceable after you've sharpened them down to nothing.

Beaver Blade.jpeg


Pricey....but pretty much indestructible. But I still use the carbide tipped (Renegade) blades more than anything else.

I am usually trying to cut things as close to the ground as I can.....or when clearing fence-lines.... you are bound to hit some wire or a T-post. That is an automatic 'Stop and sharpen' with chain saw blades.
 

Snowman7

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LX3310 535 loader, LX2980, RB2672, FDR1660
May 20, 2020
372
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Boyne Falls, MI.
Damn....if it ain't always something.....

It fits.....kinda, sorta.....

I did not account for the "bulge of the hub".....

So its the right diameter, but not deep enough.....

One side is good, but the other side "sticks out" as you can see.

View attachment 130520



I basically have 2 options at this point.

1. re-cut a deeper one ....or

2. cut the center out.

I choose the latter.................after all, I have 2 sets of nifty Hole Saws.

Now where did I put them??????

About 40 minutes of futile searching and cursing, it dawns on me.....they are both at the cottage......4 hours one way.

Moth$%$$#@$%^^

Now what?

I know.....The Lathe!!!!!! hahahahah......Damn, I am so glad I bought that thing.

I make a "mandrel" out of a bolt, 2 washers and a nut, and chuck her up.


View attachment 130521


It starts to spin a little, so I have to take many "very light" cuts.

View attachment 130522


Eventually I get this.

View attachment 130523

Now for the 2nd "test fit"

BAM!!!!!!! Home Run!!!!!

View attachment 130524 View attachment 130525 View attachment 130526


Works exactly as intended and the magnet appears to be of the "Goldilocks" variety....Not to weak, and not too powerful....just right!


The End
Apply for your patents and get to work! Love it!
 
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CGMKCM

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RVT-1100C, ZD323, L4760
Jan 26, 2021
416
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43
Randolph county N.C.
Nice cutter. A couple of things I can add. The splines that you applied never seize call for grease (I use Red Armour). On the cutter head is a plug that you remove and also add the Red Armor grease. Owners manual on my Shindawai 282T did not address adding the grease, might be a dealer maintenance item. Also on You Tube look up Chickanic videos. She is an ECHO dealer and post troubleshooting and maintenance tips.
 

Flintknapper

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L2350DT
May 3, 2022
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Deep East Texas
I bought a few Renegade Blades thanks to these threads. ;)
They are relatively inexpensive but perform the best (for a carbide blade) that I have used/found. When I know most of my cutting is going to entail getting as close the ground as possible, those are what I reach for.

If I am going to be cutting larger saplings (up to 6"-7") the I'll switch to a blade with a chainsaw chain on it and just be careful not to get it in the dirt.

A dedicated Brush Cutter is much like a Pole Saw in that you can make a LOT of clean up work for yourself in short order....using the right tool for the job. So save a little energy for that chore.
 
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Runs With Scissors

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L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
Jan 25, 2023
2,513
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Michigan
I have been running those Renegade blades thus far and I like them, but I decided to try out this "chainsaw blade".

I really like those Renegades. They do an amazing job and they last a while.

But WOW!!!! that Forrester Blade cuts a 4 inch sapling "right quick".

I am tending to cut a bit higher (3 to 4 inch?) too keep away from the rocks.

I kinda wish the Forrester blade was 10" just because you do notice a small difference at the upper end of it's diameter limit, but not a huge deal.






DE5844E1-C25F-4559-A0A2-4E33125D15FD.jpeg



I will also stop to mention that a "Harness" is a "must have" for this thing.

As much as I try, occasionally things get "out of hand" and that thing "jerks uncontrollably". Although I am getting better.

I decided to get a Stihl harness and I am sure glad I did.

The harness that came with the Echo was kind of a "joke". It fit poorly, it was hard to "connect and disconnect" the machine, and was just over-all "sloppy".

I decided to "repurpose" it and fit it to the Old Lady and she uses it for the battery powered trimmer now. (y) 🍸

The Stihl harness is infinitely more comfortable and usable.

The older I get, the less I want to visit the ER.

At 200 bones, they are not cheap, but to me it was worth it. Between the Stihl harness and the Echos ample "handle bars" I feel pretty safe and I have gotton a "butt load" of work done.

Here are some pics of the Stihl Harness.



CFEE0B41-4181-46A9-BDB8-81C7BEED45B7.jpeg



6CA7C707-8DB7-404F-B3CD-517E13498609_4_5005_c.jpeg


That orange lever in the lower left of the pic, that connects and disconnects the cutter, is a MAJOR improvement over the factory Echo harness.
 
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Flintknapper

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L2350DT
May 3, 2022
1,783
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Deep East Texas
Yes a GOOD harness is absolutely necessary if you plan to cut for more than 5 minutes. I chose the Husqvarna unit...but what you have is excellent too. (y)

HusQ harness.jpg
 
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PoTreeBoy

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L35 Ford 3930
Mar 24, 2020
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WestTn/NoMs
I have been running those Renegade blades thus far and I like them, but I decided to try out this "chainsaw blade".

I really like those Renegades. They do an amazing job and they last a while.

But WOW!!!! that Forrester Blade cuts a 4 inch sapling "right quick".

I am tending to cut a bit higher (3 to 4 inch?) too keep away from the rocks.

I kinda wish the Forrester blade was 10" just because you do notice a small difference at the upper end of it's diameter limit, but not a huge deal.






View attachment 133453


I will also stop to mention that a "Harness" is a "must have" for this thing.

As much as I try, occasionally things get "out of hand" and that thing "jerks uncontrollably". Although I am getting better.

I decided to get a Stihl harness and I am sure glad I did.

The harness that came with the Echo was kind of a "joke". It fit poorly, it was hard to "connect and disconnect" the machine, and was just over-all "sloppy".

I decided to "repurpose" it and fit it to the Old Lady and she uses it for the battery powered trimmer now. (y) 🍸

The Stihl harness is infinitely more comfortable and usable.

The older I get, the less I want to visit the ER.

At 200 bones, they are not cheap, but to me it was worth it. Between the Stihl harness and the Echos ample "handle bars" I feel pretty safe and I have gotton a "butt load" of work done.

Here are some pics of the Stihl Harness.



View attachment 133454


View attachment 133455

That orange lever in the lower left of the pic, that connects and disconnects the cutter, is a MAJOR improvement over the factory Echo harness.
Forester also makes a carbide version that stays sharp much longer. Always cut on the left side of the wheel so it's pulling away from you, the only downside is the chips (and rocks if you have any) are thrown back towards you.
 
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Runs With Scissors

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L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
Jan 25, 2023
2,513
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Michigan
Forester also makes a carbide version that stays sharp much longer. Always cut on the left side of the wheel so its pulling away from you, the only downside is the chips (and rocks if you have any) are thrown back towards you.

Cool...

Did not know that.
 

Flintknapper

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L2350DT
May 3, 2022
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Deep East Texas
Forester also makes a carbide version that stays sharp much longer. Always cut on the left side of the wheel so it's pulling away from you, the only downside is the chips (and rocks if you have any) are thrown back towards you.
^^^^^

And Snakes.

Since the blade rotates counter clockwise anything capable of being slung your direction (that the guard doesn't catch) can indeed end up right at your feet.

CopperHead1.JPG


This one actually lost a fight with my Weed Eater (string trimmer) but same principle applies. So if you don't want a snake slung right back onto your feet.....leave them alone.
 
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WI_Hedgehog

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BX2370 (impliment details in Profile-About)
Apr 24, 2024
360
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Milwaukee, Wisconsin, U.S.A.
^^^^^

And Snakes.

Since the blade rotates counter clockwise anything capable of being slung your direction (that the guard doesn't catch) can indeed end up right at your feet.

View attachment 133520

This one actually lost a fight with my Weed Eater (string trimmer) but same principle applies. So if you don't want a snake slung right back onto your feet.....leave them alone.
You hit a pink girl snake???
You bas+@rd! :ROFLMAO:
 

Flintknapper

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L2350DT
May 3, 2022
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You hit a pink girl snake???
You bas+@rd! :ROFLMAO:
I generally give snakes a 'pass'. ALL snakes away from the house or outbuildings are free to carry on. They perform a valuable service and have a place in the ecosystem.

But when venomous snakes come up around the house or my shop (as this one was)....I don't try to relocate them. They have to go.

Copperheads are really the only snake I encounter near the house. I have a large front and back yard (several acres) that I keep mowed short and I also have a buffer zone of pasture mowed short.

I don't allow piles of wood/junk to accumulate around my shop, but on occasion we have a snake come through anyway. I happened to be trimming weeds behind a small storage building when this one came out from underneath it and started acting pissy.

Not going to put up with that.

But I didn't stop to think that the trimmer string would pretty much 'grab' the snake and throw it literally onto my feet. I'm not afraid of snakes....but there was an urge to 'scream like a girl' for just a moment.
 
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jyoutz

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MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
Jan 14, 2019
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Edgewood, New Mexico
I generally give snakes a 'pass'. ALL snakes away from the house or outbuildings are free to carry on. They perform a valuable service and have a place in the ecosystem.

But when venomous snakes come up around the house or my shop (as this one was)....I don't try to relocate them. They have to go.

Copperheads are really the only snake I encounter near the house. I have a large front and back yard (several acres) that I keep mowed short and I also have a buffer zone of pasture mowed short.

I don't allow piles of wood/junk to accumulate around my shop, but on occasion we have a snake come through anyway. I happened to be trimming weeds behind a small storage building when this one came out from underneath it and started acting pissy.

Not going to put up with that.

But I didn't stop to think that the trimmer string would pretty much 'grab' the snake and throw it literally onto my feet. I'm not afraid of snakes....but there was an urge to 'scream like a girl' for just a moment.
That string trimmer did a pretty good job on the snake.
 
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Flintknapper

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L2350DT
May 3, 2022
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Deep East Texas
That string trimmer did a pretty good job on the snake.
Yeah.

Echo SRM-3020 trimmer with .105 black diamond line. It will cut down weeds that are a lot tougher than a snake.

Never had a snake come out and act defensive though. Usually they are eager to go the other way.

If it had stayed under the storage shed I would have never known it was there or cared. Cat might have found it eventually.

Hood Ornament.jpg
 
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