I am so confused and flustered over the break in period. Some people say to drive it like you stole it. Others say keep it around 2000 rpm’s for the first 50 hours. Now I see some guy on Facebook saying not to use your loader unless you are at full rpm. What the heck are we supposed to do and why isn’t the manual more clear. I started to break mine in by using it like I normally would. Then I saw some threads on here where people were saying to keep it around 2000 rpm’s so I did that. Now some guy is saying to never ever use your loader unless your at full rpm because you will destroy a brand new engine. We’ll, I’ve been using my loader at 2000 rpms while trying to protect the engine. What the heck am I supposed to do?
The Break In Period
- Thread starter IAkubotaGuy
- Start date
Just use it reasonably. Kubota says nothing about a break in period. Most of these Kubotas need to be at or quite near the max rpm to have the proper PTO rpm. Generally you don’t need quite that high an rpm for loader work.
I would just follow what Kubota USA says in their doc's. I tend not to try and out guess the "experts". Simpler that way.
I break in my equipment just like the real farmers do. Full throttle and full load. Seems to work ok for them 
I’ve been using my loader for maybe the last 10 hours at 2000 rpm’s, would that have done damage? I figured if what I was doing was to tough it wouldn’t do it. But heck I don’t know.
My manual does say not to work it “hard” for the first 50 hours.
My manual does say not to work it “hard” for the first 50 hours.
I'm not sure where or why someone would say full rpm for loader work or it would damage the engine? That's just odd. The engine doesn't care about the hydraulics.
As far as break in, Kubota says that break in period is 50 hours. As far as how you handle the tractor during that time, I can tell you from experience engine break ins just don't drive it like you stole it. Ease the throttle up and down. Wait until the timer is up and change the oil. Some guys change out all fluids and filters at that point. You can be easier if you like, you can change more than the oil if you want but the factory says its fine and they are the ones that pay for it if it isn't.
These aren't race engines, they are tuned way below their potential. Outside of race applications, if an engines going to have an issue it's generally going to be right away. As in during break in or soon after. Since Kubota doesn't offer further guidance and the warranty is considerably longer than that I wouldn't worry about it too much since it will be covered if there is an issue.
As far as break in, Kubota says that break in period is 50 hours. As far as how you handle the tractor during that time, I can tell you from experience engine break ins just don't drive it like you stole it. Ease the throttle up and down. Wait until the timer is up and change the oil. Some guys change out all fluids and filters at that point. You can be easier if you like, you can change more than the oil if you want but the factory says its fine and they are the ones that pay for it if it isn't.
These aren't race engines, they are tuned way below their potential. Outside of race applications, if an engines going to have an issue it's generally going to be right away. As in during break in or soon after. Since Kubota doesn't offer further guidance and the warranty is considerably longer than that I wouldn't worry about it too much since it will be covered if there is an issue.
nbryan
Well-known member
Equipment
B2650 BH77 LA534 54" ssqa Forks B2782B BB1560 Woods M5-4 MaxxHaul 50039
If your doing really heavy grunt work for extended time periods then running at or close to operating rpm is a good idea. I also go to my operating rpm for pto-attached implements that are supposed to run at 540 rpm rear, or 2500 rpm mid-pto on my machine, like for the chipper on back or blower on front.
When the engine was new, first 50 or so hours until 1st service, I just didn't run anything hard on the engine or tranny. Like only chipping small stuff, or going slower blowing through deep snowbanks, so as not to really heavily load or lug the engine when brand new, at full rpm or not.
Today I had a pile of nearly finished compost about 5 feet deep to turn with the loader, and ran at 2000ish rpm for a bit until it was obvious I needed more oomph, so set at 2200-2300 rpm and that was just right for the job at hand. My machine has 1130 hours on it.
Do not always need the engine at full working rpm to operate the loader or forks, and often a much slower rpm helps with finer-tuned hydraulics control. Just boost the rpm when heavier lifting and/or pushing is needed.
I almost never run the loader at full rpm. Only like when the forks are barely lifting a crate full of green firewood to move around. But usually 1800-2300 does the job.
FYI it was over 400 hours before my b2650 engine and HSD operated, and sounded "broken in". Hard to describe, but smoother running, a little quieter, greatest power responses, and cleanest oils between changes yet.
Just try not to "pedal to the metal" until after the 50-hour.
Don't overthink it.
I use my new 2601 as a mowing tractor. Start it up, let it run for a few minutes. Then engage the belly mower and set the rpm's at 2700-2800 and go mow.
I make sure the fluids are topped off. When I hit the 50 hour mark, I will put fresh fluids in it.
I use my new 2601 as a mowing tractor. Start it up, let it run for a few minutes. Then engage the belly mower and set the rpm's at 2700-2800 and go mow.
I make sure the fluids are topped off. When I hit the 50 hour mark, I will put fresh fluids in it.
ve9aa
Well-known member
Equipment
TG1860, BX2380 -backblade, bx2830 snowblower, fel, weight box,pallet forks,etc
The first thing I did with my BX2380 was to mow 2 acres at WOT.
The next serious work it saw was a full winter of heavy snowfalls with a front mounted snowblower. (sometimes 2' or more of drifted snow)
Don't overthink it.
Do the service @ 50hrs
The next serious work it saw was a full winter of heavy snowfalls with a front mounted snowblower. (sometimes 2' or more of drifted snow)
Don't overthink it.
Do the service @ 50hrs
Don't overthink it. Also, don't believe Facebook Farmer. I break in everything the same way- modulate RPM and load for the 1st 10 hours or 300 miles. Then, send it!
Race motors get a couple miles, a couple heat cycles and a couple WOT pulls. That's it. Never had a failure to date.
The wife's VW got the WOT treatment after 90 miles. Four pulls to 80 mph. It now has a little over 300k on the clock and doesn't eat a drop of oil. YMMV
Race motors get a couple miles, a couple heat cycles and a couple WOT pulls. That's it. Never had a failure to date.
The wife's VW got the WOT treatment after 90 miles. Four pulls to 80 mph. It now has a little over 300k on the clock and doesn't eat a drop of oil. YMMV
mcmxi
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
***Current*** M6060HDC, MX6000HSTC & GL7000 ***Sold*** MX6000HST & BX25DLB
Oh really. Both of my tractor owner's manual have a section re a new tractor.
MX6000 owner's manual.
M6060 owner's manual
Funny, my K manual has a page on break-in. Just no wide-open-throttle and take it easy for starts, stops, loader operation to give things a chance to get seated. Then change oils and filters after the first 50 hours.
Just run the engine at the appropriate speeds, don't peg the throttle, and don't lug the motor. For my HST I set the throttle to about 2K rpm. If you have DEF it will be happier this way.
Attachments
Last edited:
Not lugging is probably the single most important thing during any engine break in.
Curious though, what does urea injection have to do with break in?
Agree on the lugging, definitely something to be avoided. And that includes HST equipped tractors, keep RPM high enough that the engine can produce required power without excessive fueling and resultant peak cylinder pressure.
One of the changes new owners need to understand is the throttle control in the tractor isn't like the one in your car or pickup. With the passenger vehicle, you are directly requesting the amount of power desired but with the tractor you are telling the governor desired RPM and it will try to maintain that requested engine speed regardless of how much or how little power is needed. So running at 1/3 "throttle" with the injection system going to maximum fuel for its calibration curve at that operating point isn't a good thing for break-in (or for long intervals between regen for DPF equipped models).
For initial operating of my F2690, I kept RPM around 70 to 80% of rated and reduced mowing speed to prevent excessive engine load during initial operation.
Should we also pick and choose which parts of the Kubota maintenance schedule and specified fluids to follow or ignore?
Rodger
One of the changes new owners need to understand is the throttle control in the tractor isn't like the one in your car or pickup. With the passenger vehicle, you are directly requesting the amount of power desired but with the tractor you are telling the governor desired RPM and it will try to maintain that requested engine speed regardless of how much or how little power is needed. So running at 1/3 "throttle" with the injection system going to maximum fuel for its calibration curve at that operating point isn't a good thing for break-in (or for long intervals between regen for DPF equipped models).
For initial operating of my F2690, I kept RPM around 70 to 80% of rated and reduced mowing speed to prevent excessive engine load during initial operation.
Should we also pick and choose which parts of the Kubota maintenance schedule and specified fluids to follow or ignore?
Rodger
Sorry, DPF and DEF run better if you run the engine hot. The good old days of running at low idle for fuel economy is bad for pollution control systems.
I’d recommend to look through some some old threads…and by all means read and follow the manual….when you are done reading if still not sure, go back to the basics…let machine warm up (look for temperature bar/guage to move)…while it’s warming up use five senses for anything wrong…leaking, missing something not smell or sound right etc…torque some bolts get to know you machine…have manual with you and find your zerks…main thing is get to know machine so you can identify when something is unusual….still have time before you see a bar on the temp guage light a cigar, enjoy it, then go use you tractor. There is no way to seat the rings with out heat/friction…if you want to do that you need to run the machine and use it. When you roll your machine out look where it was parked from before…is there anything leaking? If so find it…if not proceed. Ultimately it’s your machine. You are responsible for it so take the recommendations or don’t. I’d recommend use it and enjoy it.
Kubota recommends being easy on the tractor the first 50 hours (should I even mow?)
About to take delivery in the next few days of a BX1880. 80% of the time it will be used to mow with amid mount mower. I was gleaning the owners manual to see what Kubota said about break in or run in of the tractor I know in vehicles you should be soft on the truck/car for the first 300-500...
www.orangetractortalks.com
Last edited:
Oh, yeah. The DPF definitely works better and lasts longer if kept hot.
The DEF system doesn't care really. It just squirts in the cat pee based on NOX levels. Most systems don't inject until the EGT is >400°f anyway. When it's too cool, deposits can form on the injector and SCR. So it's not done at idle/ low EGTS. I don't know about Kubota specifically. That's just the typical algorithm.
i have a L4060 almost 1 year old. I've over lubricated all the fittings (more often than necessary: i bought a dewalt grease gun (INVEST)), filled the front axles with oil, did my 50 hour service and used the ever loving S&*# out of her. Today was maintenance day: checked oil level. Tightened all hydraulic fittings, topped off with SUDT2, cleaned and lubed both PTO's (finish mower and brush hog) and ran a new power line direct from battery to fuse block for my LED lights (fused and shielded of course)! I get a little nervous every time I fire ole'gurl up because it seems like every time I break something it costs me a couple hundred dollars, but, I'm loving my Kubota! I'll change the oil every 50 hours (I'll bet some folk will disagree with this) because i want my boy running my lady when I'm in a home. Out of all the money I spend, an oil change: all Kubota oil, fluids and filters, are small change compared to all the money I spend. Love it! Use it! Take care of it! I subscribe to the: drive it like you stole it!
My thought is that comment is about the most nonsensical statement one could make. Engines are made of steel, aluminum and cast iron and those materials have no idea that you want to abuse them, operate with sense.