Test the stability of your tractor with this!

[flyidaho]

I saw this the other day while at a shop that does granite counter tops. I think I'll weld up something similar, just because you can't have to many ways to pick things up and and move them around. OBVIOUSLY this will reduce the capacity, and present stability problems if one got too crazy with it.

 

[kenmac]

Could be very handy as long as it's used with care and common sense!!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

It's going to at or near useless on the size of tractor that you have.

You do not have enough lift capability and more than likely not near enough rear weight.

 

[twomany]

What does that have to do with stability?

Loading in any unreasonable way is unreasonable.

Loading in a reasonable way is reasonable. That "device" in no way measures or defines "stability".

What size is the dog in the fight?

 

[flyidaho]

I guess my initial disclaimer still wasn't enough to defer any criticism, so those calling BS, don't make one! In fact, don't even put a fork attachment on at all, as they can be overloaded! I'm sure I mentioned here I run a small 30 ton crane for a living, so I think I have a decent handle on the viability of extending a load away from the center of gravity, and the effects of any counterweight, and doing this while not on level ground. This device on a small tractor would OBVIOUSLY be worthless with some loads and uses, and safe with others, it all depends on the operator. If someone makes one and tips their tractor over, don't blame me, blame Darwin.

 

[Dave_eng]

I saw this the other day while at a shop that does granite counter tops. I think I'll weld up something similar, just because you can't have to many ways to pick things up and and move them around. OBVIOUSLY this will reduce the capacity, and present stability problems if one got too crazy with it.

Forgetting the debate over the size of your tractor, comparisons with cranes, the big difference with the forklift and your tractor is where the pivoting axle is located. The pivoting axle is needed to keep all 4 wheels on the ground when there is no suspension system.

On the forklift, the pivoting axle is on the rear far from the lifting point.

On your tractor, the pivoting axle is on the front right where you are wanting roll stability you don't have any.

If you proceed, please wear your seat-belt as the roll over will happen faster than you can imagine.

The other alternative some owners have done is a lift based upon being attached to the 3 pt hitch. Now you are lifting at the non pivoting axle which adds to the roll stability.

No one here want to discount your knowledge and experiences just to share theirs with you. Their comments are not to criticize but to suggest you consider other factors

Dave

 

[asgard]

I agree that care and common sense are vital, and I was well informed of that when I posted pictures of the 2 cranes I built for my B series. The smaller one is used to move long logs about and work in tandem with a skid with wheels on it, new revision under construction- it is kept low and it performs without issue. The second is a higher version that mounts to my homemade forks, it is for lifting my snowblower onto a pallet for summer storage, again kept low and then dropped onto the forks, both work well with the HF 2500lb winch with synthetic cable.

I do not lift or travel far with either, it is not for high or heavy lifts but not having a front loader it is handy.

I post this for information, not to start a discussion of rollover, tipping or any other doom and gloom scenario.

Most of us have enough desire to not kill ourselves.

It is, however, good to see things that are used in different situations, that is how you can cross design and if you wish to try your own proof of concept and design.

 

[flyidaho]

I guess I should have used a larger font when I first said OBVIOUSLY this will etc. All who have commented on the issues involved are 100% correct. Especially the last comment about where the steering wheels are on a forklift compared to a tractor. Vastly increased danger, much less (but not none, just very little) capacity, for sure, obvious even I thought, no argument here! My thinking was not to "pick and carry" a load, (cranes that are called pick and carry types are built much heavier and have comparatively little capacity due to the stress involved as compared to a static lift) but just a third hand for holding something up in the shop, while keeping the tractor a bit further away. While parked on a level concrete floor, most importantly with no side slope.

I had occasion a couple months ago to make use of this, I was taking one wing off my Rans S-7S kitplane, about 80-90 lbs., and needed a third hand but had no convenient pick point in the hangar ceiling. I ended up using a homebuilt drywall jack underneath, but holding it from above would have been better. The thing about it I like, is when in a constrained headroom situation, the forks and FEL could stay low, while by tilting back you could shoot a lifting hook strut up and over a load. MANY times when I am doing something, it'd be handy to be able to have a fixed "skyhook" a couple feet above the work, just something to hook a rope or chain to while you welded it etc. I have a beam trolley that runs the length of my shop, with two chain falls on it, but any loads need to be where it is, the center of the shop. This is one reason I opted for 48" forks instead of the 44", though well aware of the reduced capacity I would have with moving the leverage point further out, I was more interested in reaching light loads a bit further out. L3301, with a rear snowblower and windshield fluid filled tires BTW. Hey you guys are doing the right thing by critiquing me on this, much better then saying "yeah go for it, can't see anything at all that could go wrong with that setup!"

Nice work Asgard, another way to skin the cat! Another possible use I'd have for a fork based picker is when I lift my PTO mount weed sprayer up into the outbuilding upper shelf. I can ALMOST do it by hand, will I could have almost done it by hand 20 years ago, it's has things in the way when picking it from the bottom using the forks, easily breakable plastic things. Top picking it would be super easy, but I can't use the forks, with a chain dropped through a torched burned hole in the fork tip (the first thing I did when I got my forks) as I run out of headroom.

 

[armylifer]

I agree that care and common sense are vital, and I was well informed of that when I posted pictures of the 2 cranes I built for my B series. The smaller one is used to move long logs about and work in tandem with a skid with wheels on it, new revision under construction- it is kept low and it performs without issue. The second is a higher version that mounts to my homemade forks, it is for lifting my snowblower onto a pallet for summer storage, again kept low and then dropped onto the forks, both work well with the HF 2500lb winch with synthetic cable.

I do not lift or travel far with either, it is not for high or heavy lifts but not having a front loader it is handy.

I post this for information, not to start a discussion of rollover, tipping or any other doom and gloom scenario.

Most of us have enough desire to not kill ourselves.

It is, however, good to see things that are used in different situations, that is how you can cross design and if you wish to try your own proof of concept and design.

That thing is so cool. That got me to thinking about modifying a pick up truck crane, the same way that you have yours. I found this one on Harbor Freight for $94.99 https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-capacity-pickup-truck-crane-60732.html

Use a 20% off coupon and it is just $76.00.

 

[flyidaho]

I have one of the Harbor Freight knockdown types of engine pickers, and though I can't lay eyes on it right now, I seem to remember it may be easy enough to fab an adapter to the section containing just the load arm, and almost as cheap as going out and buying the needed tubing. And, you could still use it as a roll around hoist, two tools in one.

 

[asgard]

Thanks for the positive comments. Works well fro me.

I have also added a chain lift capability to the higher crane, I sometimes use the chain as belt and braces with the winch line.

As for using the HF unit, the slightly more expensive one with the longer base would be easier to mount. I have mine so it slips into a mounting on the pallet lifter, it makes for a strong connection and with the forks a good wide base so it is like outriggers and as I only lift it to clear the ground the forks are like a drag racer wheelie bar if it should tilt.

Sorry pictures are all side on.

 

[Dave_eng]

I have one of the Harbor Freight knockdown types of engine pickers, and though I can't lay eyes on it right now, I seem to remember it may be easy enough to fab an adapter to the section containing just the load arm, and almost as cheap as going out and buying the needed tubing. And, you could still use it as a roll around hoist, two tools in one.

Excellent idea to make better use of a piece of equipment many of us already have.

Dave

 

[Mike9]

I have a boom pole on my B6200. It picks up everything I need it to. Like my Brush hog, my Tiller, deer, motors, cub cadets - you get the picture.

 

[st8yd]

For light duty, I have a 9' piece of galv pipe that was given to me. My previous tractor had block forks so I just slid it over one was quick and easy.

But it wouldn't slide over the pallet forks so I adapted it and added a loop to the end. Works great and cost nothing.

Intend to make some pallet fork extensions one day and will probably take the place of this.