New to this forum, any thoughts would be appreciated. Bought a 2014 ZD221 last Fall and just now putting to heavier use. My temp gauge occasionally drops over to full red, but the engine doesn't seem to be hot. The dealer tightened the belt and I installed a new temp sensor, but still on occasion, not always , drops over to hot. I'm reasonably certain the engine is not hot, thinking the gauge?
Temp gauge showing hot
- Thread starter CharlesH
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85Hokie
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Welcome to the forum.
First thing is to see IF THE GAUGE or the sending unit is "off"
I highly suggest you buy one of these:
tell you more about what is HOT and what is NOT !!!!
then evaluate what to do next!
I take it your radiator is very clean?
First thing is to see IF THE GAUGE or the sending unit is "off"
I highly suggest you buy one of these:
tell you more about what is HOT and what is NOT !!!!
then evaluate what to do next!
I take it your radiator is very clean?
I don't understand what "drops over to hot" means. As previously mentioned, is your radiator clean?
You do not want to be operating your machine with the symptoms you report.
Take the time to determine if you have a real temp issue or a failing gauge or sensor.
I have attached to key pages from the WSM.
If you do not have a multi meter let us know.
If you do not understand the tests ask.
85Hokie's suggestion is an excellent first step.
Engines low on coolant often do not report accurate temps on the gauge and yet are very vulnerable to damage which essentially turns your machine into junk.
Dave
Take the time to determine if you have a real temp issue or a failing gauge or sensor.
I have attached to key pages from the WSM.
If you do not have a multi meter let us know.
If you do not understand the tests ask.
85Hokie's suggestion is an excellent first step.
Engines low on coolant often do not report accurate temps on the gauge and yet are very vulnerable to damage which essentially turns your machine into junk.
Dave
Thanks 85Hokie, ill pick up a infrared thermometer to be on safe side. I was a little concerned when I first saw and took back to the dealer, he shot the engine with his infrared and the engine was clearly cool. His guess was the belt seemed possibly loose and tightened. Yeah I keep that radiator clean and clear after every use. I feel reasonably comfortable the engine is safe, just a little unnerving to see the needle on red. Easiest fix seemed to be a new water temp sensor, put it on today and still got a needle in the red...but not all the time.
Thanks Dave, ill go through the steps in the diagram tomorrow. Love this beast, don't want to hurt her.
That's a knee-jerk reaction from someone who has no clue. Not charging? Tighten the belt! Not cooling? Tighten the belt!
It's probably over-tight now and putting unnecessary side loading on your pulley, which will produce premature failure.
And it didn't do a bit of good, did it? (It usually doesn't.)
Thanks Mark, I'm headed to the farm shortly and spend some time checking a few things today. I've got a couple of tractors, a little John Deere 318, blowers, chain saws and bunch of motors, I've had to learn a few things along the way, but a long way from proficient with electronic issues. Bought this one, 2014 with 420 hours, trying to learn some characteristics of Kubota, no real issues, just don't like something beating me.
Always good to learn from others.
kubotasam
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B2410, B7100dt, B7500,Woods BH750,Landpride 2660RFM, Tiller, B2781 Snowblower
I had a similar condition happening to my B7500 when I purchased it used a few years back. It turned out to be a corroded ground connection between the back of the instrument cluster and the wiring harness.
Is it possible to replace the gauge with an analog type? I've never really understood why a temp gauge would have 'windows' of operating temperature on a gauge. What does that 'area' on the gauge actually convey?
With an analog you know what the temperature is and IF that temperature is of any concern.
I installed one on my L2350DT.
Yeah, just not that dealer!
We're here to help! One of the great things about forums like this is that you get a diversity of knowledge. Some folks can rebuild an alternator blindfolded, some know electricity well in a general way (me), some know transmissions inside and out (not me!) some know hydraulics.
We can pool our knowledge (and sometimes our ignorance!) and all come out ahead.
I had the same issue and bought the infrared thermometer as was recommended here and found that the sending unit was not functioning properly. This is a not an uncommon problem I learned. An inexpensive and easy fix. Good luck.
Against my better judgement I ran for a couple hours yesterday, still wants to move into the red. I touched the radiator cap and was cool, my gut which is not scientific I know, tells me kubotasam and flintknapper are on to something.
Sounds obvious but Is there any correlation to heat and stress on engine. I did notice the temp seemed to rise as I raised the rpm's. I like the idea of the analog gauge, ill see what I can find to fit and ill clean the connectors.
I did install the new temp sensor, the $15 one, not the $70 Kubota one since I wasn't absolutley sure that was it. Chances of a faulty sensor or Kubota is unique?
Thanks all.
Sounds obvious but Is there any correlation to heat and stress on engine. I did notice the temp seemed to rise as I raised the rpm's. I like the idea of the analog gauge, ill see what I can find to fit and ill clean the connectors.
I did install the new temp sensor, the $15 one, not the $70 Kubota one since I wasn't absolutley sure that was it. Chances of a faulty sensor or Kubota is unique?
Thanks all.
A guy a work is fixing a B2650 we hear the people got it hot mowing and added cold water from the hose.
Cracked the head all 3 cylinders.
Cracked the head all 3 cylinders.
GreensvilleJay
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re: windowed gauges show an acceptable range of temperatures. Say 'OK' can be 160-190*f, the band will be 'green'.
re: sensor + gauge. They have to be 'matched'. You can't just install any sensor and assume the gauge will read the correct temperature. Also battery voltage plays a part in this. Unless the voltage is constant(say 12.5 v) the reading will not be accurate. How 'off' depends on sensor, gauge, voltage and 'whatever' (computer ?) is in the loop. Cars used to have a voltage regulator to supply 10 volts to the gauges to provide accurate readings.
re: sensor + gauge. They have to be 'matched'. You can't just install any sensor and assume the gauge will read the correct temperature. Also battery voltage plays a part in this. Unless the voltage is constant(say 12.5 v) the reading will not be accurate. How 'off' depends on sensor, gauge, voltage and 'whatever' (computer ?) is in the loop. Cars used to have a voltage regulator to supply 10 volts to the gauges to provide accurate readings.
I think your on to something. I've got a volt meter, the necessity to learn all the settings never has come up. I think it just came up. Don't mind buying original whatever parts if I just knew that was the prob!em. I need to circle back to Dave's suggestions.
Thanks again, I'm not a mechanic, The Lord just gave me a decent amount of common sense and a lot of weekend fixin.
Ran for about 4 hours today and the temp gauge never went over half way. I did notice I needed to add some hydraulic fluid, wondering is there any correlation between low hydraulic fluid and engine temperature?
RCW
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Charles - unless really low, should not be a correlation between hydraulic fluid level and engine temperature.
whitetiger
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Almost all temp senders are unique. Did you test it against the specs that Dave_eng posted for you in post #4?