Tailwheel for rear blade/rake

[Thunder chicken]

After seeing some other gauge wheel/tail wheel set ups on rakes and blades, ive decided to make one. I need it mostly for the rear Blade, I try to keep a 1 mile road in 1/2 decent shape for a local club… lots of dips and figured a tailwheel would help with that. Then, may as well make it easily removable and use it on the rake.
Thought about using a top link for the height ‘adjuster’ but what the heck, ordered a cylinder instead. I have enough rear remotes.
Waiting to find some heavy pipe with a 1 1/2” ID to make the tail wheel mount from (it’s off an old Sidewinder mower I believe)

 

[Henro]

After seeing some other gauge wheel/tail wheel set ups on rakes and blades, ive decided to make one. I need it mostly for the rear Blade, I try to keep a 1 mile road in 1/2 decent shape for a local club… lots of dips and figured a tailwheel would help with that. Then, may as well make it easily removable and use it on the rake.
Thought about using a top link for the height ‘adjuster’ but what the heck, ordered a cylinder instead. I have enough rear remotes.
Waiting to find some heavy pipe with a 1 1/2” ID to make the tail wheel mount from (it’s off an old Sidewinder mower I believe)

That looks pretty good. I think without scientific proof, that the further back you put the wheel, or wheels, the better. Mine are nowhere near that far back, and I wish they were.

 

[JohnDB]

That looks pretty good. I think without scientific proof, that the further back you put the wheel, or wheels, the better. Mine are nowhere near that far back, and I wish they were.

Motor graders have a long wheelbase for a reason...

 

[DustyRusty]

After seeing some other gauge wheel/tail wheel set ups on rakes and blades, ive decided to make one. I need it mostly for the rear Blade, I try to keep a 1 mile road in 1/2 decent shape for a local club… lots of dips and figured a tailwheel would help with that. Then, may as well make it easily removable and use it on the rake.
Thought about using a top link for the height ‘adjuster’ but what the heck, ordered a cylinder instead. I have enough rear remotes.
Waiting to find some heavy pipe with a 1 1/2” ID to make the tail wheel mount from (it’s off an old Sidewinder mower I believe)

1 1/2" schedule 80 steel pipe should fit the bill.

 

[Chanceywd]

You might also weld a 1-1/2 solid shaft collar on both ends of another piece like schedule 40 if you can't find the 80. TSC carries shaft collars. I just used shaft collars for the pins to make a narrow trenching bucket for my BH77.

 

[rScotty]

It looks a bit like my landPride landscaping rake. I have one that I got at auction years ago and have slowly added all the options.

The way it adjusts for height of the rake or blade is real clever. The vertical pivot for the trailing wheel fits into a bushing on the back of the trailing arn - just like you are building yours. Then there are a stack of half inch shims that you add or subtract to set how high the trailing wheels sits relative to the rake teeth.
Setting the engagement from the back that way with the trailing wheel works a LOT better than trying to set it with the 3pt hitch.

Another thing that works well is to have two trailing wheels at the 1/3 spacing rather than one in the middle. The trailing wheels definitely need to be able to pivot like casters.

If you go to LandPride and look at their landscape rake parts diagrams you can see whart I mean.
rScotty

 

[BigG]

Check out the pull type bow blade this guy is using with his little tractor. Has anyone used one like it? I think this would work well for redoing yards as well as drive ways but I have not found anybody with one to ask about them.

The pull or wheeled type box blade starts at 6:00 minutes. I thought it was a good video overall.

I guess if you had castors on a york rake you could remove the top link to do the same thing. Maybe?

 

[Thunder chicken]

Thanks for the suggestions. This is a slow work in progress so keep em coming.
I found a piece of pipe here but it’s not Sch80, I can’t find any 80 locally, so this will have to do for now.
Having a hyd cylinder rigged the way I have it will allow it to move a bit lower than the blade/rake tines, likely about 2-3” lower by my guess. Leaving the top link on I’ll be able to change the ‘angle of attack’. It’ll be fun to try it without though.
That pull box scraper is nice, larger units would be great, but they sure are spendy like most good things!

 

[Thunder chicken]

I found some sch 80 pipe and got the tailwheel post made up.
Other goodies arrived in the mail and was able to get it mostly finished up, just need some adapters for hoses.

 

[Chanceywd]

I like it! I have a rake and back blade, I may have try making one too. Thanks for the photo update. I have added a cylinder to angle that I switch between the two. I couldn't get it to do the full angle swing both ways with a 20 inch stroke so I have it favoring the right side as I tend to turn back that way. Need to redo the bracket at the blade end.

Bill