T6 5w40?

[SidecarFlip]

OK... well... there IS a bit of over-concern about brand and type of oils, IMO. My ‘92 Jeep Cherokee, straight six has 332,000+ miles on it using nothing but El Cheapo SuperTech straight 30 and it has had NO engine work other than spark plugs, water-pump, and radiator. Don’t tell me you have to use magic potions, purple oil, or full chemistry-set-synthetic to get a car to go over 300K without troubles.
The difference in price spent on oil changes runs into thou$and$ of dollar$ $aved. (I believe it has saved me over $10K just on that ONE car!)

I genuinely dislike oil threads in general because everyone has an opinion (as I do) and opinions are like an anus. Everyone has one. Some stink and some don't.

I use what works for me. Your mileage may differ but I know what my mileage is.

I've not heard of ANY lubrication failures in years. If it's a lubrication failure it's usually mechanical in nature, not the lubrication.

My final comment btw.

 

[Pau7220]

OK... well... there IS a bit of over-concern about brand and type of oils, IMO. My ‘92 Jeep Cherokee, straight six has 332,000+ miles on it using nothing but El Cheapo SuperTech straight 30 and it has had NO engine work other than spark plugs, water-pump, and radiator. Don’t tell me you have to use magic potions, purple oil, or full chemistry-set-synthetic to get a car to go over 300K without troubles.
The difference in price spent on oil changes runs into thou$and$ of dollar$ $aved. (I believe it has saved me over $10K just on that ONE car!)

In defense of chemistry set ultra refined oil, that Rambler engine is nearly indestructible and would probably do the same on waste oil!

 

[GeoHorn]

I genuinely dislike oil threads in general because everyone has an opinion (as I do) and opinions are like an anus. Everyone has one. Some stink and some don't.

I use what works for me. Your mileage may differ but I know what my mileage is.

I've not heard of ANY lubrication failures in years. If it's a lubrication failure it's usually mechanical in nature, not the lubrication.

My final comment btw.

Yeah, I know what you mean. In the decades past, Pennsylvania Grade Crudes-based oils were the BEST and everybody knew it and those oils commanded premium prices. But these days the oil in the bottle came from Kuwait, Saudi, West Texas, and gawd-knows-where and is all dumped into the same tank and refined to meet standards set by ILSAC in agreement with car mfr’s and oversight by EPA to meet air quality standards and engine emission equipment requirements. Those bottles of oil have the ILSAC “starburst” symbol on them to certify they meet the latest standards of SN, CF4, or other, etc etc and NO EXCEPTIONS/variations are allowed, regardless of brand.
This means the oil comes out of the refinery and is poured into the BP, Castrol, Chevron, Pennzoil, or SuperTech bottle and then priced according to the “brand” on the bottle.
That’s why it makes little difference for your engine but a big difference on your wallet when you argue about Shell Rotella being better than Mobil or Chevron or SuperTech, etc.
IMO and in my personal experience with lots of cars and equipment using less expensive oils that meet mfr’r requirements and ILSAC.
It’s your money. Spend it like you want.

 

[Fido Farms]

As we all know the most wear on an engine is at start up. I use 5-40 Duron here in Canada in everything. The lighter 5 will be better on start ups for quicker lubrication. Otherwise I've never read anyone having an engine issue that can be related to the oil viscosity. Use what u feel comfy with and carry on. This is a highly opinionated topic. The most important thing is to Change ur oil regularly. Done deal. Happy tractoring...

 

[greenacresnorth]

Ive been using Cat DEO-ULS-Syn 5w-40 for years in tractors, trucks, boat motors, everything!!!! I get it by the gallon for free from work so that has most of the reasons why....but it does work pretty good too.

 

[dfixit1]

Thank you for all your replies and opinions! Interesting that Rotilla still hasn’t replied to my case, but I won’t hold my breath!
I was just curious if anyone had any official documentation stating it was ok. I know it wouldn’t be from Kubota because I read the manual before posting as as another pointed out the “official” oil viscosity options, along with my local dealer.

My brother uses it in his Bobcat/Kioti since new and I have heard of others using it in their Yamaha Wolverine as it’s approved for wet clutch applications.
I was just baffled by my previous dealers response of, too thin for summer.
I will add this to my list of over analyzing!

 

[Fido Farms]

Thank you for all your replies and opinions! Interesting that Rotilla still hasn’t replied to my case, but I won’t hold my breath!
I was just curious if anyone had any official documentation stating it was ok. I know it wouldn’t be from Kubota because I read the manual before posting as as another pointed out the “official” oil viscosity options, along with my local dealer.

My brother uses it in his Bobcat/Kioti since new and I have heard of others using it in their Yamaha Wolverine as it’s approved for wet clutch applications.
I was just baffled by my previous dealers response of, too thin for summer.
I will add this to my list of over analyzing!

I have posted this before but winter or summmer your engine runs at operating temperature. Say 190f. It doesn’t matter winter or summer which means your oil runs the same temp winter or summer. Therefore thinking 5-40 is good for winter but to light for summer Because of outside temperature makes no sense. This should solve the debate. IMO.