Synthetic or Conventional motor oil in Kubota diesels

[Bulldog]

lmichael… I “get” what you are saying….and don’t dispute that synthetic lubricants have longer lives than conventionals…. BUT…. how long do you think the average owner lives…. or his equipment lives? Example: I had a ‘92 Jeep Cherokee with a straight six. I loved that car.
From oil-change ONE …it had Quaker State SAE 10W30 or SAE30 motor oil in it. (correct..that did not meet the 10W30 Jeep recommended, but it was cheaper and as the car got older I went cheaper.) After 100K miles (or so) I discovered the WalMart ”Supertech” oil is the same stuff…but $1/qt cheaper…so that’s what I used for the NEXT 100K miles…. and it then occurred to me to see just how long this car would last using cheap oil. At 300K miles with no major repairs (it did get a new water pump and radiator and wheel bearings/u-joints)…..
….I was planning to write a “testimonial” to the Quaker State people (SOSUS is the actual company…they also produce Pennzoil alongside QS and Supertech…. it all comes out of the same ground thru the same refinery and just goes into different bottles with different prices)….…


I was spending about $12-$15 on each oil and filter change (SUpertechfilters are around $2 and made by Purolator) …and compared to full-synthetic oil changes I saved many-Hundred$ over the life of that car. After over 22 years of operations…. It was finally rear-ended by a woman driving a Class A motorhome-while-texting…or I’d still be driving that car. it had 335,000+ miles on it and still did not burn oil!


Now…. how much difference would it have made to throw high-dollar full synthetic oil into that vehicle…?? I don’t buy new cars every few years like many people do. I drive ‘em until they’re either wrecked or stolen

I’ll bet most people can figure out the math on this .

Even if you don’t do your own oil changes…WM will perform a “basic” oil change for $19…. or a FULL synthetic for $50…that’s a $30 difference. A 5K mile conventional oil change (which is what I did on that Jeep) versus a 10K mile synthetic change (what Toyota recommends for my wifes Sienna) is an effective difference of $60 each 10K miles. Over the life of that Jeep that’s hundreds of dollars difference…and makes ZERO difference in the life expectancy of the vehicle.

Did cheap oil and filters help that car obtain over 300,000 miles….? I don’t know.

What I DO KNOW…is it did not PREVENT that car from getting over 300,000 miles with no major repairs…and I don’t waste good money on magic oils that provide no meaningful benefit. I spend it on whiskey and women and dogs.

.

Just something to think about because I believe you left out a couple of things that need to be factored in to your equation.

1. Can't just look at cost alone. Need to compare a standard 5k ($19) oil change to a 25k ($50) oil change. 5 Cheap changes is right at a $100. 1 synthetic change is $50 so the synthetic give you a extra $50 to spend on whisky, women and dogs.

2. Need to calculate the added mpg that you gain from synthetic. Fairly easy to gain 3-4 mpg so figure that over a 25k interval at todays fuel prices and the oil will more than pay for itself.

I guess it's whether you want to look at the short term gain or look at it over the long haul.

 

[ruger1980]

Just something to think about because I believe you left out a couple of things that need to be factored in to your equation.

1. Can't just look at cost alone. Need to compare a standard 5k ($19) oil change to a 25k ($50) oil change. 5 Cheap changes is right at a $100. 1 synthetic change is $50 so the synthetic give you a extra $50 to spend on whisky, women and dogs.

2. Need to calculate the added mpg that you gain from synthetic. Fairly easy to gain 3-4 mpg so figure that over a 25k interval at todays fuel prices and the oil will more than pay for itself.

I guess it's whether you want to look at the short term gain or look at it over the long haul.

How many OEM's have you seen approve extending your service interval 5 times above their recommended interval?

I myself feel the 200hr interval that is recommended by Kubota is conservative but 1000hrs is the max I would attempt and that is with a premium filter designed for that interval

I would also say your estimates are off. You could not buy 8 qts of oil to service my tractor for $19 in todays environment plus then add in an $8 filter.

I would also like to see the real world documentation that shows a synthetic oil alone will improve fuel consumption to the degree you claim.

The oil company reps I deal with will state maybe a 3-5% improvement in fuel consumption optimistically.

 

[Mark_BX25D]

So he recommends a non-Kubota 15w40 in an area where temps go well below freezing and contrary to Kubota's guidelines.

There is nothing magic about Kubota engine oil.

 

[jyoutz]

Wally world

Rotella T6 15W-40 ......... $22.28 gallon


remember Joe Pesci in my cousin vinny?

ass kicked or $200 ???

I'll take the T6 for .75 cents more please!

I swear that synthetic stuff is way to expensive to buy and use! ......... yeah, add sarcasm where needed.

T6 is 5w-40

 

[DustyRusty]

85Hokie said:
Wally world

Rotella T6 15W-40 ......... $22.28 gallon

That was the old price, and you can't find any T6 anywhere in MA, CT, RI. I know because I have looked. The closest that I could find was 3 quarts at a NAPA dealer 50 miles away!

 

[whitetiger]

T6 is 5w-40
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...YWiQ_Ajd6MDPbiqXLJcaAu4HEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[TheOldHokie]

Rotella T6 Heavy Duty Diesel engine oil is available in grades 0W40, 5W40, and 15W40. In my area the 5W40 and 15W40 are readily available. The 0W40 is harder to get but readily available online.

Dan

 

[jyoutz]

Rotella T6 Heavy Duty Diesel engine oil is available in grades 0W40, 5W40, and 15W40. In my area the 5W40 and 15W40 are readily available. The 0W40 is harder to get but readily available online.

Dan

Thanks Dan. I thought the last time I bought T6, it was 5w-40

 

[ruger1980]

Rotella T6 Heavy Duty Diesel engine oil is available in grades 0W40, 5W40, and 15W40. In my area the 5W40 and 15W40 are readily available. The 0W40 is harder to get but readily available online.

Dan

They also make the T6 multi vehicle in 5W30 which is CK4 rated. But it seems a but pricey.

 

[Butch]

My question was aimed at your area. Rising Sun is less than an hour from me - it gets too cold for a 15W oil.

Dan

I solved it for me.... I called the Kubota dealership and flat out asked them... they said Delvac was just fine for me...
I have used it for well over 15+ years, engine does not use oil between changes and cranks over pretty much the same year round.
This ole girl ain't no garage queen even though she was left outside under a breezeway one night as the garage door was blocked....I got a pontoon boat stuck in the door. Bought it new in late 1999 and she looks like she's maybe 2 years old and when I go to mulching leaves this afternoon she'll hit a major milestone..... 2500 hrs.
I keep it very well maintained and by doing my own repair I can spot things before they become real issues.

Forgot... Just ordered the Delvac 1300 online.... a 4- 1 gallon case for $100 (incl tax) and shipping was free). That comes to $6.25/quart. Autozone has it listed for $49/gal. Go figure....

 

[TheOldHokie]

They also make the T6 multi vehicle in 5W30 which is CK4 rated. But it seems a but pricey.

They do. But unlike the xxW40 grades which are ACEA E9 the 5W30 is a ACEA E6 diesel oil. The ACEA E categories break diesel oil performance out a bit better then the API C categories so I suspect there are some performance differences if you start digging - probably SAPS and/or HTHS related. That said the differences may be inconsequential in this application, Anytime you go multi-vehicle there are compromises being made on one or both ends.

Dan

 

[RalphVa]

How many OEM's have you seen approve extending your service interval 5 times above their recommended interval?

I myself feel the 200hr interval that is recommended by Kubota is conservative but 1000hrs is the max I would attempt and that is with a premium filter designed for that interval

I would also say your estimates are off. You could not buy 8 qts of oil to service my tractor for $19 in todays environment plus then add in an $8 filter.

I would also like to see the real world documentation that shows a synthetic oil alone will improve fuel consumption to the degree you claim.

The oil company reps I deal with will state maybe a 3-5% improvement in fuel consumption optimistically.

I worked out the numbers for dino oil vs. M1 on our old Benz 240D several years ago, doubling the change miles and 6% fuel mileage improvement. Got a very small credit for M1. Never did actually measure the 6%. Think it may be closer to 3%.

 

[lynnmor]

I understand having oil in your engine is important but I must confess that I have owned an Allis Chalmers tractor maybe seven or eight years and have never changed the oil. It runs great. I have an elderly friend who never changed the oil on his tractor either. Maybe 20 years.

You might find a clue in this video.

 

[Mark_BX25D]

You might find a clue in this video.

Want to bet?

 

[mpmitch1]

So can you use rotella t6 on an L5740 which has a EGR system? Yes or no

I use diesel from normal gas station pumps in the south.

 

[TheOldHokie]

So can you use rotella t6 on an L5740 which has a EGR system? Yes or no

I use diesel from normal gas station pumps in the south.

Yes.

Dan

 

[85Hokie]

So can you use rotella t6 on an L5740 which has a EGR system? Yes or no

I use diesel from normal gas station pumps in the south.

Absolutely!!!!!! Specially if you want the best lubricant possible in your engine.

 

[lmichael]

Just saw (for the first time) T-6 15-40 yesterday. It was at my local Menards and it was $15.99 gallon. Bottom line for me. I began using synthetics (M1) back when it was only 5W-20 in the metal round can. Used it in everything. My buddy the same. We never had an issue, our engines ran strong, cool and clean.
Today given the great flow characteristics, great protection afforded, and so on. There is no good reason NOT to use synthetic products. Yeah there will be anecdotal evidence by someone who will contradict. But overall the preponderance of evidence shows them to be the best thing to use in anything

 

[AKguy09]

Synthetic oil has a habit of seeping out if the the engine is not designed for it,seals aren't compadable.

That is a Myth, it cannot make an engine leak, if the engine already had a leak then it will leak

 

[TheOldHokie]

That is a Myth, it cannot make an engine leak, if the engine already had a leak then it will leak

API certification requires oils to pass a series of performance tests. All API licensed engine oils have to pass the Elastomer Compatability Test (ASTM D7216) . In other words synthetic and conventional engine oils are all subjected to and must pass the same seal compatibilty test.

Dan

PS> Automotuve engines are not "designed for" conventional or synthetice oil. They are designed for oils that meet one or more API service categories and API testing does not distinguish synthetic from conventional.