When working on/doing service its is easiest to access the engine area with the FEL arm elevated. Yes, you could remove the FEL or place a support post under the arm/s. I have heard tell that some use angle iron piece attached to the lift cylinder rod whereby NOT allowing the lift cylinder to retract, safely holding the loader up when working under it. Is this an acceptable method and if so, should a bar be placed on BOTH cylinder rods? Ok for sub-compacts with lighter loader? Heavier loaders NOT so good. Looking for different opinions and if anyone else is doing this.
Supporting loader when under
- Thread starter SRRGC1
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Bmyers
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Grand L3560 with LA805 loader, EA 55" Wicked Grapple, SBX72 BB, LP 1272 mower
This is what my wife bought for me
Tractor Loader Cylinder Safety Stops- Ask Tractor Mike
She said she doesn't mind me playing with my tractor, but she doesn't want it to kill me in the process.
Tractor Loader Cylinder Safety Stops- Ask Tractor Mike
She said she doesn't mind me playing with my tractor, but she doesn't want it to kill me in the process.
jyoutz
Well-known member
Equipment
MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
I recently installed a grill guard on my tractor and raised the loader. I did this in my barn and chained the loader lift arms to the overhead trusses. To make this even easier I’m considering installing a manual chain hoist to the trusses.
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TheOldHokie
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
NCL4701
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Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
If you’re going to work under the loader, removing the bucket or whatever is on the front and chocking mechanically as Bmeyers does is a necessity. I take the loader off to access the engine/front of the tractor for service. Don’t know about your machines. Mine is 5 minutes off; 5 minutes on. I prefer that to working under a several hundred pound steel object regardless how it’s chocked when there’s a viable alternative.
I’ve never had a loader catastrophically fail and fall. I have been under a vehicle twice with hydraulic jacks that failed catastrophically. One time it was already in contact with a jack stand and I didn’t know the jack failed until it wouldn’t lift the vehicle to remove the jack stand. The other time I was using a 50 ton screw type house jack as a jack stand under a truck. It was about an inch short of reaching the truck frame and I figured the hydraulic jack would hold anyway so no need to find a block to fill the gap. Something in the hydraulics of the jack failed and the truck slammed down on the house jack like Thor’s hammer. No harm done but I do NOT trust my life to hydraulics only.
Either take the loader off for service or do what Bmeyers does. Just my opinion.
I’ve never had a loader catastrophically fail and fall. I have been under a vehicle twice with hydraulic jacks that failed catastrophically. One time it was already in contact with a jack stand and I didn’t know the jack failed until it wouldn’t lift the vehicle to remove the jack stand. The other time I was using a 50 ton screw type house jack as a jack stand under a truck. It was about an inch short of reaching the truck frame and I figured the hydraulic jack would hold anyway so no need to find a block to fill the gap. Something in the hydraulics of the jack failed and the truck slammed down on the house jack like Thor’s hammer. No harm done but I do NOT trust my life to hydraulics only.
Either take the loader off for service or do what Bmeyers does. Just my opinion.
So, a lot like a piece of angle iron, but with a safety wire and a nice paint job.
I wouldn't use just the angle iron, myself. I'd want some kind of strap or clamp to make sure it stays in place. Even some heavy zip ties would work.
jyoutz
Well-known member
Equipment
MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
What do you think of my method? I remove the bucket, then chain the lifted loader arms to the trusses in my barn (with grade 70 transport chain).
OrangeKrush
Well-known member
Equipment
BX2680, LA344 with Piranha tooth bar, LP PF 1242, LP Rear Blade, KK 60" BB
I'm with NCL and jyoutz on this one, take it off or chain it up from beam or rafters if possible.
The loaders come off so easy I'd rather just drop the loader and not take any chances.
I've had a boom hose blow with a loaded bucket...bucket was on the ground in the blink of an eye and my cab windshield was coated in oil.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
I welded 2 angle iron sections to become a 'U', added 2 washers and used a PTO clip as a 'retainer'. Two units made, cut to allow bucket off ground about 2'(shared hydraulics...) worked fine for 10-12 years.
If tractor has ROPS, you can use a stout comealong between bucket and ROPS.
Whatever you choose/do be sure you have a 'backup' and keep area clear, just in case.
If tractor has ROPS, you can use a stout comealong between bucket and ROPS.
Whatever you choose/do be sure you have a 'backup' and keep area clear, just in case.
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
SOME loaders come off easily!
My L48 TLB loader only comes off with time and wrenches, and there is no safety latch as shown on the Case 580M in post #5.
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NCL4701
Well-known member
Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Makes perfect sense to me. I hadn’t considered that method as I don’t have a shop ceiling high enough to employ it. Whatever is done has to be something mechanical that is sufficient to hold the loader by itself with a reasonable safety margin if the hydraulics are taken out of the equation.
TheOldHokie
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
I have a 2 ton chain hoist attached to the steel center beam (12") of my clear span shop. I use it for lifting loads much heavier than this loader. For something like the loader I find this 2 ton stand much more convenient and just as safe. One is more than adequate but I do have two of them if needed. I use them to support/balance the front and rear of vehicles on my 10 ton 2 post auto lift.
Dan
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Thank you all for your suggestions. Just what I was looking for, different ideas. Tks again.
Certainly if this works for you, great. My situation doesn't allow for this. Tks for your input.
TheOldHokie
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3901/LA525, B7200DT/B1630, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
It is a general purpose jack stand I purchased specifically for front and rear support of vehicles on the 2 post lift.. I don't know for sure where they came from and purchased at different times but probably HF and/or Zoro. I am sure I paid right around $100 each. I have found many uses for them and they are perfect for things like this. I also have a couple mid height ones (2-4+ feet) for loads that are too low for the taller ones.
Dan