Suicide

[AM28]

Is this another taped wire in the bundle?

View attachment 133563

I didn’t see that one. I will check further. Thanks.

 

[AM28]

BEFORER you get into the cut/splice/repair mode... look for the WSM (WorkShop Manual ) to get the wiring diagram !!
Real curious as to WHAT the spliced wires go to !!!

While you 'could' tape over lightly charred wires, far better to cut/solder/splice using SAME coloured/ gauge wire, or 'ugh'..... a new harness($ 600 ?).Kub Cda show harness,comes with fuse panel and fuses. View attachment 133571
Have a very,very careful inspection of each wire,'feel' the plastic, BEND the wires ! If plastic is 'compromised', it'll crack or snap chunks off. Heat kills copper,so if insulation is 'hard stiff', replace.
Me, I'd replace the harness before buying a new hood. Having 'electrical' issues, months from now,in the dead of Winter would NOT be fun.Painful too, form kicking yourself while saying 'I should have....' , 1000 times.

Great advice ..

 

[AM28]

Is this another taped wire in the bundle?

View attachment 133563

Yes

 

[Mark_BX25D]

Sad situation for sure. Having wiring harness melting is tough to resurrect.

Not tough, just tedious. Splice in new wire, ONE AT AT TIME.

It's tempting to just cut out all the burned stuff and go at it. Well, you CAN do it that way, but one at a time is safer.

But before you apply any power to your new wiring, make sure you know WHY it happened. That will probably start with an inspection of all fuses, to ensure they are all at the rated capacity.

Then the question is, why was what sucking so much juice?

 

[torch]

Then the question is, why was what sucking so much juice?

Good point. Another tip: remove all the fuses first. After replacing the wires, with the key off, substitute a test light in place of a fuse, one at a time. If the light iluminates, that circuit is drawing power. The brighter it is, the more power it's drawing which may help trace down a short to a particular circuit.

 

[BX'r]

Did it blow any fuses?

 

[marrmanu]

Arson investigators know: The Guilty always show up at the scene of the crime!

 

[AM28]

Did it blow any fuses?

No

 

[Geezer3d]

As others have implied, I would expect a fuse to blow before a fire started. Is any of the wiring non factory original? It's possible that a wire that is not rated for heat to be used accidentally by someone. Otherwise, the only wires that I can think of that are not fused would be the heavy starter wire and the battery cable.

 

[AM28]

As others have implied, I would expect a fuse to blow before a fire started. Is any of the wiring non factory original? It's possible that a wire that is not rated for heat to be used accidentally by someone. Otherwise, the only wires that I can think of that are not fused would be the heavy starter wire and the battery cable.

All the fuses are good. All wiring is exactly as it came new from the Kubota dealership.

 

[chim]

All the fuses are good. All wiring is exactly as it came new from the Kubota dealership.

But the question may be is the wiring as it came from the FACTORY? That is, did the dealer make any connections after it left the factory?

 

[Butch]

This is going to sound tedious, however, here it goes. Grab a WSM for that year and model. Locate the wiring diagram that shows the wire color, point of origin, point of termination and note if there are ANY inline fuses, fuse links and or breakers along the wire. Match this data to what's currently on your machine.... one wire at a time making written notes and photos as warranted of your observations as you go.... especially in the combustion areas. Pay close attention for a stranded wire(s) that may have been "partially" cut or nipped during installation as this can result in a very high resistance and subsequent heat generation.
As you go through this time consuming process, somehow (your choice of how) tag each wire that has been physically traced to insure you got them all as specified in the wiring diagram from Kubota.
At this point you should be able to identify any "extra" wires not specified in the WSM that are located at or through initial source of ignition.
Depending on your well documented observations, findings and potential conclusions..... A trip to the Kubota dealership where you bought it brand new off the lot may be in order.

In any case, just like the guys said,.... you got to find out what caused otherwise you'll never be sure you got it fixed.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

It's quite possible to ignite the insulation without blowing a fuse. Just think how HOT a glowplug gets yet it never blows the fuse powering it.
Pictures, lots and lots of pictures...eventually one of them will SHOW why this 'meltdown' occoured.

 

[AM28]

This is going to sound tedious, however, here it goes. Grab a WSM for that year and model. Locate the wiring diagram that shows the wire color, point of origin, point of termination and note if there are ANY inline fuses, fuse links and or breakers along the wire. Match this data to what's currently on your machine.... one wire at a time making written notes and photos as warranted of your observations as you go.... especially in the combustion areas. Pay close attention for a stranded wire(s) that may have been "partially" cut or nipped during installation as this can result in a very high resistance and subsequent heat generation.
As you go through this time consuming process, somehow (your choice of how) tag each wire that has been physically traced to insure you got them all as specified in the wiring diagram from Kubota.
At this point you should be able to identify any "extra" wires not specified in the WSM that are located at or through initial source of ignition.
Depending on your well documented observations, findings and potential conclusions..... A trip to the Kubota dealership where you bought it brand new off the lot may be in order.

In any case, just like the guys said,.... you got to find out what caused otherwise you'll never be sure you got it fixed.

Sounds like a fun afternoon .. or two ..

 

[chim]

Two scenarios where lots of heat won't cause a fuse to fail:

By design - heat is wanted, and calculations are done to provide large enough conductors and a properly sized fuse to protect the conductors. Good example is glow plugs. Could be toaster or a heating element on an electric range.

By accident - heat is not wanted, and the current is less than the rating of the fuse. Example is a poor connection such as wires being loose at a terminal or not tightly connected at a splice, or even a short between a hot and a ground that has sufficient resistance to limit current so it doesn't exceed the fuse rating.

 

[ctfjr]

A lot of good guessing. If, as the op said, it was standing off for 10 minutes then I would concentrate on wires that are live when the machine is off. That big red fatty would be the first place I'd look to see if you could determine if something cut through it. Of course, as others have mentioned, if there are dealer installed / modified wiring that is live when the machine is off. . .

 

[BX'r]

If the fuses are proper, the wire gauge is proper for the required current then likely a bad connection that heated up.

 

[AM28]

It appears that the amateur looking spliced wire is the ground wire to the fuel pump. One of the other two badly burned wires is also to the fuel pump.

 

[chim]

Ground wires are just as susceptible to overheating at a poor connection. They carry the same amount of current as the positive.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

hmm, dealer should supply you with a digital copy of the WSM,at the very least the wiring diagram and color code information.
still NOT a 'fun day at the lake'......