Suggestions while I have head removed?

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I'm looking into the parts/costs now. Fortunately, the head I need is the cheaper one, part # 52360 (according to one supplier based on my serial). I have a few more questions.

It appears to me that the crack goes from the prechamber to the exhaust port. I've considered reinstalling the current head/gasket and replacing the water pump with a new one. This would allow me to solve the overheating issue before spending bigger money on the head. So, what are the potential effects of running the engine with that crack? I realize there is some risk of the valve seat breaking loose and then damaging the piston head, block, etc. However, it seems that there shouldn't be any oil/coolant contamination to worry about??? Is it a big no-no? Is it relatively harmless? What are your opinions there?

If I buy a new head, should I replace the valve train as well? Or swap mine over and likely need to do some lapping?

Head bolts- reuse or new?

Block- what's the best way to ensure I don't need to have it machined before installing a new head?

You would be taking a huge risk running it with a cracked head, for one it's going to overheat every time you run it as it's putting exhaust gasses in the coolant, and it's only a matter of time where your not quick enough catching it overheating and it will do more damage.
Also exhaust gases in coolant do damage to the entire cooling system.
Right as of now it needs to be cleaned and flushed to get the acid out of it from the gasses that have already gotten into it.

Then there is the coolant getting into the cylinder while running, which will erode the cylinder walls, piston and rings.

Then If the crack finally lets fluid drain into the cylinder, (which It will very likely do at some point) it can hydro lock the engine and do all sorts of expensive damage.

Putting that head back on it and running it would be rolling a set of loaded dice... and they are not loaded in your favor!

You could get a blank head and use your valve train, but you'll find out between getting a machine shop to grind and set the valves to the new head and getting the valve seals, you'll be into it for more than buying a complete head.

You can reuse the head bolts.

If there isn't any pitting of the piston or the cylinder wall on the cylinder with the crack or any of the others for that matter, and there is not a pronounced ring ridge then the block and the bottom end are probably fine.
run the piston all the way up and make sure they all stop at the same height, because if it has ever hydro locked they can been the connecting rods and that piston will not go up as high and will have low compression because of it.