Suggestions on getting old brush hog going.

[xmikew]

Got an old brush hog not sure what brand or anything but seems stout. The fill plug was just plastic and I broke it now trying to get the rest of the plug out without getting plastic pieces in the gear box. It's pretty brittle.

Seems like I'm going to have to open the gear box? I got the smallest rubber plug from lowes I could find. It will fit in the hole if I get this plastic out.

Got a hook tool in there but it was wanting to break the plastic and don't want that in the gears.

It's rusty so was going to grind the blades on and was trying not to disassemble the gear box.

I've never run this hog yet. Came with the tractor and just got that running.

Thanks for any input.

- mike

 

[G.rid]

If it's that old and unknown, it's probably not a bad idea to open it up anyway.
But if you're determined to try it with minimal work... Pull the drain plug which should be metal, use an air compressor to keep positive pressure in the case from the bottom, while picking away at the plastic plug. Be sure to wear safety glasses.
Good luck!

 

[D2Cat]

If a regular hack saw blade will fit in the hole use it, if not grind the backside of the saw blade down to make it narrow enough to fit into the hole.

Put the blade in and have the teeth facing up. When you stroke the blade up the plastic crumbs will come up. You can even put a bit of axle grease on the blade to attract the crumbs. Once you have the plastic cut through, the plug should come out fairly easily. You may have to gently work it towards the center.

 

[Yooper]

What D2Cat says plus you can use a shop vac to pull away the shavings.

The plastic plug looks like a breather plug.

 

[xmikew]

Thanks all! Good suggestions. I do have some spare hack saw blades and do believe they will fit.

Why would it need a breather plug? That little knob on the side of the plug pulls out leaving a little hole.

I might be pulling it apart anyway if it won't hold any oil. I'll see soon!

Thanks again.


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[jpf]

it seams to me that a little of that plastic wouldn't hurt the metal gears, would it?

 

[D2Cat]

Unless you have to have the mower in pristine condition, when you get the plastic out of the hole, push a piece of stiff wire down to the bottom of the gear box. See how much oil is in there. Even take a straw and stick in, cover the top end and draw out what you can. See if it's a white, milky, or none in there!

And, as mentioned, a few crumbs of plastic is not a game changer in my opinion. If you're concerned about what's in the gear box, get a suction gun and draw it all out. Then fill it with diesel and draw that out.

Taking that gearbox apart would be my last straw! I'd put 80W90 gear oil in to about mid the output shaft elevation. If that leaks out I would use corn head grease available at John Deere dealers and other farm stores. Once again taking that apart involves removing the blades. That's a job in itself greater than replacing seals in the gear box.

Go to your nearby hyd. shop and get a brass plug to replace the plastic. They'll have a screen mesh, and who get in this condition!!

 

[Bxmike]

I would try a square extractor . Gently tap in.see if you can get it out. Hacksaw trick if if it won't come out. Flush with some 318 oil . Chase hole with proper tap. Fresh oil filled. Steele breather plug for replacement.

 

[Ramos]

To answer one of your' questions: Yes, you want a breather somewhere on the gearbox. As things warm up in there while running, the air expands. If it is completely sealed, the pressure can be great enough to push a seal out or at least push the oil past a seal. When it cools back down, you end up with a vacuum.

Also, as already mentioned, a few small pieces of plastic in there should not be an issue.

 

[xmikew]

Thanks. I ground the blades down today. They have some pretty big chunks out of them but cleaned them up the best I could. Definitely a pain grinding them on. I'm not young or old but was tired of bending over the dang thing by the end of it. Next time they won't be so bad though.

Clearly overthunk(or underthunk depending on perspective) the plug issue. I thought it was a plug but it was threaded. That's why I broke it in the first place. I just used a stripped screw bit and backed it out. The square bit comment made me think of that. Worked like a champ and now I can get a proper replacement and it's already tapped.

Pulled the drain plug and nothing came out. Filled with some gear oil and will check to see how bad the leak is. The bolt holding on the stump jumper is oily....

Thanks for the info on the vented plug. My little rubber plug idea would not have worked. Probably would have gotten pushed out and then lost in the fields!

Thanks all!

- Mike

 

[Stmar]

Disappointed!!! Saw the title that was truncated "Suggestions on getting old" so I clicked on it thinking someone had found the answer but it was about a brush hog. Oh well guess I will keep looking, lol.

 

[xmikew]

Stmar. Same as with old tractors. Lots of replacement parts! [emoji3]if you thought kubota parts were expensive ...

So I wrestled with this beast today. I got the fill plug in and filled with oil. Checked back next day and was at same level. It is leaking a small amount around the front gearbox seal but not bad.

The pto shaft on there is frozen. I tried to loosen it with a come along but I was just dragging the brush hog. Tied the brush hog to a tree. Still wouldn't budge. Decided to get new pto shaft. Took shear bolt out and shaft won't come off brush hog. Beat on the ears of the yoke. Blocked with wood and tried a crow bar to pry off. I moved it maybe 1/16 of an inch. Next plan is to cut it off with angle grinder and try not to hit the brush hog shaft to make a relief cut. What else can I try??

Thanks!

 

[Russell King]

There is a c clip on the end of the shaft (gear box input) that you need to remove.
Push the yoke toward the gearbox to see the clip and to see if the yoke will move along the shaft.

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[xmikew]

There is a c clip on the end of the shaft (gear box input) that you need to remove.
Push the yoke toward the gearbox to see the clip and to see if the yoke will move along the shaft.

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Thanks russel. Don't remember seeing it but will take a look again in the morning. I can see the end of the brush hog input shaft through the yoke - have not got the shaft moved that far yet. Looks like a clip can go on there though.

 

[xmikew]

I don't see a ring on it.

Hard to see it's bright outside. There is a grove around the circumference of the output shaft there. I can't even get it moved that far.

This is looking straight down the shear bolt pin hole. I moved it maybe 1/16.

I put iron pipe on the ears and banged on it. Won't go past that point. I must be missing something. Maybe just missing gorilla strength.

-Mike

 

[xmikew]

Cut as much as I could without hitting the gear box so about 1/3rd. I banged it back a little - bad idea. Now I'm worse off. Banging it forward still not wanting to budge. Since I could bang it back on the shaft fairly easily there must be something preventing from moving forward! I don't see anything though. Must be under the collar somehow. I was ready to drop 1000 for a new bush hog was I was banging on it. One of the most frustrating things. Decided to take a break and renew my resolve.

 

[xmikew]

So as far as I could tell this thing is only secured by a shear bolt. Is that right? I see no moving parts on the collar/yoke attached to the brush hog. Do I have to turn omit somehow.

Seems odd if the shear bolt broke it would not be secured anymore. This is an Italian pto shaft.

In other news. I got the pto shaft separated yanking on it....

 

[Russell King]

Now that the yoke has been compromised it has to come off and be replaced. The shaft into the shredder is smooth round bar, so when the shear pin fails the PTO yoke will be able to spin. The clip in the end of the shaft is there to keep the yoke on the shaft when the shear pin fails.

I imagine you have a rusted together yoke and shaft. Soak the shaft with your favorite rust penetrating fluid like Kroil, PB Blaster and let it set for a while. Then move it the amount you can, spray and move it the opposite direction. Repeat as required...

While waiting you can see if a reciprocating saw or a hack saw will cut the yoke enough to release the shaft.

If you could get a clip on the shaft then you could run it without a shear pin until it breaks free. I doubt that you can get the clip in until you can get it moved towards the box a quarter inch or more.

Do not operate without the clip installed


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[Russell King]

You may need to go ahead and get the shaft out of the way by removing the u joint. That will let you hammer (lightly of course) on the yoke to drive it toward the gear box. Then clean the exposed shaft with Emory cloth before you start to try and move the yoke
Patience and a good penetrating fluid are your two best friends for getting this off.

You can probably replace the yoke, the half shaft or the whole shaft after you get this yoke off.


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[xmikew]

Russel thanks for the suggestions. Going to keep spraying it with pb blaster. Hammer lightly you say? Hrm. That ship sailed after day 2 of messing with it. I have mushroomed iron pipe and the ears of the yoke don't look much better.

I've put a crow bar on the u joint to try to twist a bit but nothing. Bar just bends some.

Going to try your idea of sanding what I can. The snap rings of the yoke are all rusted as well.

In good news. Looks like the gear box is a omnigear rc 30. Saw it looking for a replacement snap ring.

Might try reciprocating saw but those things are so jumpy. Might can do something with a dremel.

Thanks again.

- Mike


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