SUDT2 to top off axle

[muddhogg]

I've been reading the threads talking about making sure to check the front axle oil on new delivery tractors so I'm going to check mine tomorrow. I stopped by the Kubota dealer to pick up some SUDT2 to top it off. I asked the dealer what they put in there before delivery, and he said 80w-90. I asked if I topped that off with SUDT2 would it be a problem and he said no. So, just double checking if you guys think mixing these would be an issue?

L2501 DT

 

[Njtool]

When I did my service I drained the 80w from the axle and replaced it with SUDT2 with no problems.

I think it’s easier to have SUDT2 in there rather than 80w. Then I don’t have to keep 80w around.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Nope, no problem at all, the 20 will interchange / mix fine in the front axle.

 

[bbxlr8]

I went through this a while ago and posted up the same.

The consensus was the factory filled with UDT2, dealer added the heavier gear oil (they didn't tell me and I "knew" by feel and smell) & I topped w/slightly less than a quart of the UDT2.

The mix gets you somewhere in the middle viscosity-wise. No harm, no foul in my opinion based on factory spec's. Some prefer each depending on preference & temps. You are in GA so real cold weather is not a factor.

The main thing is you just don't want it to be low so you are good!

EDIT - also go slow and let it sit and equilibrate. It takes a good while even for the easy flowing UDT2 to even out side to side. I actually overfilled at first

 

[jyoutz]

I went through this a while ago and posted up the same.

The consensus was the factory filled with UDT2, dealer added the heavier gear oil (they didn't tell me and I "knew" by feel and smell) & I topped w/slightly less than a quart of the UDT2.

The mix gets you somewhere in the middle viscosity-wise. No harm, no foul in my opinion based on factory spec's. Some prefer each depending on preference & temps. You are in GA so real cold weather is not a factor.

The main thing is you just don't want it to be low so you are good!

EDIT - also go slow and let it sit and equilibrate. It takes a good while even for the easy flowing UDT2 to even out side to side. I actually overfilled at first

I’m thinking that if you remove the side plug where the oil level should be checked and then fill from the top, it will start running out the side plug when full. It would be impossible to overfill with this method.

 

[RalphVa]

I've been reading the threads talking about making sure to check the front axle oil on new delivery tractors so I'm going to check mine tomorrow. I stopped by the Kubota dealer to pick up some SUDT2 to top it off. I asked the dealer what they put in there before delivery, and he said 80w-90. I asked if I topped that off with SUDT2 would it be a problem and he said no. So, just double checking if you guys think mixing these would be an issue?

L2501 DT

Doubt either one has many additives, and the front axle would not get very warm. I'd say no problems.

 

[bbxlr8]

I’m thinking that if you remove the side plug where the oil level should be checked and then fill from the top, it will start running out the side plug when full. It would be impossible to overfill with this method.

Thought the same - especially with the viscosity.

But no - it takes a while. Others reported the same

 

[jyoutz]

Thought the same - especially with the viscosity.

But no - it takes a while. Others reported the same

I guess you could put a pan underneath and let it set awhile then keep adding until it quits draining.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Doubt either one has many additives, and the front axle would not get very warm. I'd say no problems.

Premium automotive gear oils contain roughly 10% by mass additive content. Of that 70-80% is EP additive, SUDT2 is formulated as a GL4 gear oil and will have about half the EP additive content of an SAE 80W90 GL5 gear oil.

Dan

 

[lugbolt]

80-90 takes forever to flow into the hubs, it's gotta go through several bearings, fill the hub/gearcase assembly, etc.

But the good thing is, 80-90 leaks out a lot slower too, and collects dirt around the leak better, and makes it almost impossible to miss any leakage; unless you're one of those that never cleans their equipment and then you never know if it's leaking or not, just leaks out, takes out bearings, seals, etc.-and ya never see it cause of all the crap built up around the leak points.

 

[jyoutz]

80-90 takes forever to flow into the hubs, it's gotta go through several bearings, fill the hub/gearcase assembly, etc.

But the good thing is, 80-90 leaks out a lot slower too, and collects dirt around the leak better, and makes it almost impossible to miss any leakage; unless you're one of those that never cleans their equipment and then you never know if it's leaking or not, just leaks out, takes out bearings, seals, etc.-and ya never see it cause of all the crap built up around the leak points.

Smells nice too.

 

[muddhogg]

Premium automotive gear oils contain roughly 10% by mass additive content. Of that 70-80% is EP additive, SUDT2 is formulated as a GL4 gear oil and will have about half the EP additive content of an SAE 80W90 GL5 gear oil.

Dan

im gonna need a translation on that?

 

[TheOldHokie]

im gonna need a translation on that?

Gear oil is about 10% additives and 90% base oil.. SUDT2 has about half the EP additve content of a conventional gear oil.

Dan

 

[muddhogg]

Gear oil is about 10% additives and 90% base oil.. SUDT2 has about half the EP additve content of a conventional gear oil.

Dan

Is that a good thing or a bad thing.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Is that a good thing or a bad thing.

Its neither - just data. It really does not matter which you chose to use but they are different animals and personally I would not mix them.

Dan

 

[lugbolt]

Oh by the way, you can make the 80w90 pour better by sticking your quart bottle of it in the microwave for about a minute prior to pouring it. Don't tell the ol' lady though. Trust me, from my experience on that part....

On most of Kubota's front axles, I'll leave the check plug installed, then just fill the axle to the top of the fill hole. Once full, let it sit about an hour. Then fill it again. Now go drive around a little bit, then let it sit. at that point remove the check plug and let any excess spill out. Reinstall check plug, come back in the morning to double check. Top it off and it should be good to go.

Also, while you're in there, check and /or clean the vent. Very common for them to get plugged, and when they do pressure builds in the axle case, which helps to push fluid out of seals. And push seals completely out of the case depending on the design.

Yes it takes a while for the fluid to infiltrate everything, as I said earlier.

 

[mikester]

I’m thinking that if you remove the side plug where the oil level should be checked and then fill from the top, it will start running out the side plug when full. It would be impossible to overfill with this method.

My M59 doesn't have a side plug. The axel takes 12.5L and it overfilled after adding only 6L. In this cold weather it took a week of top ups to get the oil level right. I used SUDT which flows better.

 

[muddhogg]

Just topped it off with SUDT2, It did need some. Used almost .5 gallon.

 

[Henro]

But the good thing is, 80-90 leaks out a lot slower too, and collects dirt around the leak better, and makes it almost impossible to miss any leakage; unless you're one of those that never cleans their equipment and then you never know if it's leaking or not, just leaks out, takes out bearings, seals, etc.-and ya never see it cause of all the crap built up around the leak points.

Having trouble understanding this statement. If one pays attention to level in the front axle, and some oil leaks out and is replaced, why would it affect bearings, seals, etc?

I guess you were implying that people that do not clean and polish their tractors do not check oil levels also?

If so, I get it!

I confess I am guilty of not cleaning and polishing my tractors much anymore...