Subaru Outback Timing Belt

Stmar

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Anybody here have a Subaru with 2.5 engine? I have a 2006 with about 85K and was told that I need to have the timing belt and hardware replaced. I found a chart that said this needed to be done at 105K or 105 months. I wonder if keeping the car garaged when not in use and not abused if the mileage is more important than the months? The new Subaru 2.5's have a chain instead of belt so should be more durable, may have to think about trading.
Has anybody had this done, if so what did it cost and did you have it done at an independent or dealer? Dealer is 120 miles away so a hassle to have anything done there, last time was the airbag recall and it took them all day instead of the 2 hours they quoted.
 

bearskinner

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I would look up the recommended 10 year or Hundred thousand mile service recommendations too. Possibly do plugs, coil packs, all belts etc. Yes, it costs money, but preventative maintenance is worth a fortune in piece of mind, and maybe you will save on fuel mileage and get better performance too
 

William1

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Replacement is time or mileage, which ever comes first. Garaged or not, makes next to no difference.
While you can stretch it, the cost and inconvenience of a broken belt are not a savings. If you go to sell the vehicle and it had been due for a replacement, a savvy buyer will check it and if not done, deduct the cost of this maintenance from an offer price.
 

Lil Foot

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Worked with an engineer who was incredibly cheap. He had a Honda car (which has an "interference" engine) that was due for a timing belt. He decided that he could put off changing the belt, because "they always allow for some leeway" when setting those mileage/time requirements, and "it's all just a scam to get more money".
The belt broke, wiping out the whole valve train. ($$$$) Before re-assembly, the mechanic told him that his front main seal was beginning to leak, and it should be changed to prevent the oil from weakening the new belt. He cheaped out again. Sure enough, the new belt soon broke, wiping out the whole valve train. ($$$$)
Reinforced my belief that if you're going to repair something, repair all that you can at the same time. Saves dollars & headaches down the road.
 

Tooljunkie

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At 85 k i wouldnt do it. 100, you bet. If you are curious, see if you can remove the belt cover enough to see it. The change it now telltale is cracks. No cracks, no replacement. The timing kits now have all related parts to prevent timing belt premature failure, including seals. Full set of instructions also. A regular DIY'er can usually handle this task, unless special tools are required.
 

Stmar

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I just found out about this, can''t believe they have what I would call a time bomb in their product. I had always heard Subaru's were bullet proof so never thought it would have something like this. You know it was an issue because the new ones don't have the belt but the chain like the 6 cylinder has always had. Guess I will get a quote on getting it done then decide if we want to trade it in. Really like everything else about the Subaru.
 

Tooljunkie

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Timing belts have been around for years,most have clearance for valve to piston in the event of a belt failure.
Could be your shop is doing their due dilligence by reccomending replacement. Kind of like a heads up long before something hits the fan.
 

85Hokie

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I just found out about this, can''t believe they have what I would call a time bomb in their product. I had always heard Subaru's were bullet proof so never thought it would have something like this. You know it was an issue because the new ones don't have the belt but the chain like the 6 cylinder has always had. Guess I will get a quote on getting it done then decide if we want to trade it in. Really like everything else about the Subaru.
Back in the old Ford line, on their 351 windsor engine - they used a nylon over steel sprocket and an all steel chain......at 85K it.....well, whats the word - it#@%$#@ up and the chain jumped a tooth....ever seen a valve hit a piston head? - I was pissed!!!! and broke(r)

I have a brand new Subaru , Forester - gets 38 mpg and does what I need it to do - first new car I ever bought in my life......now if I could keep the sawdust out of it!:eek::)
 

Stmar

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You are lucky, your new Forester should have the chain.
I talked to a shop here in town and the guy said he has done a lot of them and also said they are a great car and that is why you can't find a good used one. I am now waiting on a price to do the job and will most likely get it done before winter sets in. We have not had to put much into the car, just regular maintenance and tires and an expensive wheel bearing, over the course of 10 years.
 

Tooljunkie

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Budgeting for repairs/maintenance should be 100/month. That should cover everything after it comes off warranty. Exceeding that, time to find a better vehicle. From my experience most cars dont need that much over the lifespan of the car.
After 10 years, there isnt much for trade in value. Still usually solid but dealers dont want them. I guess after the hurricanes used cars are at a premium, may be a good time for someone looking to trade up.
 

Stmar

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Buffalo, Wyoming
Got a ballpark figure on what it will cost, 500 - 600, guess that is not bad and they will use Gates components which is a good brand.
 

lugbolt

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If you're doing the belt, ask them to do the head gaskets too. They fail often on those.

Another reason I think that the Subaru's boxer engine is piss poor. They're smooth and have a low center of gravity but they're a pain in the butt to work on and for that reason, quite expensive. That and they like to eat their own head gaskets on some of them every so often, though I don't remember which ones. A guy I used to work with a guy who had a 2000 (I think) Outback, which he liked. He must have really liked it after pouring a ton of money into it, both head gaskets, belt(s), power steering issues, etc. He apparently had a lot more patience than I.

Speaking of interference engines, my old girlfriend had this one Honda, Prelude I think it was. Kind of a sporty car, well for a Honda of the time. It was slug slow but kinda fun to drive. Anyway, we're running down the freeway at about 75 one afternoon and it starts slowing down. I asked her why she was slowing down and she said she wasn't, but the car was. On the floor, running 62, all it would do. It was a minute or so later and it made a noise and then lots of smoke from the tailpipe. We pulled over and I popped the hood, smoke, steam, coming out of the oil fill hole. I knew it was bad. So anyway, we had to walk a bit to get some cell signal to call a wrecker. Had it towed to a local shop, they pulled the belt cover and the belt broke. Since it was an interference engine, he pulled the head and found 4 broken valves, and with the head of the valve completely broken off of the stem, it destroyed the head, block, and obviously the pistons. The rest of the valves were simply just bent. $4000 later and a new engine, we were back on the way to Florida but we lost a lot of time. Vacation was shortened from 9 days to 2 because of that stupid car. I think belt check interval was every 50,000 miles. I paid a shop to replace it, and it lasted maybe 10k if that. Belts are kind of one of those things where you never know if the slant eye that made it was working a late Friday or an early Monday or mid-day wednesday. Or if he was about 5 years old....timing belts use less power to use them as opposed to chains but they also require replacement every so often.

I just did a 2.3 turbo swap into my Mustang (original Merkur engine) and they are non-interference, so if the belt breaks, it just freewheels to a stop. Replace belt, re-time everything, and off you go. I had a Mustang SVO at one point (same engine) that lost a belt about 150 miles from the house. I walked to a parts store and bought a belt ($9 at the time), and had tools in the hatchback, so I replaced the belt right on the side of the road. Set timing by ear, and it drove all the way back home without a hiccup. Loved that car, and that's actually why I decided to do the 2.3T swap in my '93. It is a crude little pinto engine, 8 valve inline 4, makes about 200 hp. But I still like it.

Ford did use those stupid plastic gears for a few years and honestly they lasted a LONG time as long as they were maintained and the engine wasn't overheated. Once the oil got too hot, the plastic would get brittle. I didn't like them but I've had some with a ton of miles on them; last one was an F150 that the odometer died at 248,000, I replaced the cluster with a brand new one and it showed 213,000 on it when I traded it. Never went into the engine. Had the upper intake off to clean some carbon out, but that was it. And people hated it when they went to OHC V8's in 1997....said that they'd be junk. Couldn't be further from the truth. I'm impressed with 'em and have had 2 or 3 since they came out, all had a ton of miles-and the Lightning had 300k on it when I sold it, all original, and was used every single weekend, both days, on the drag strip...and daily driven Monday through Friday. Great truck. Not real fast, but sure was fun-and super reliable.
 

Dwarner

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I have personally done many Subaru timing belts. The belts seldom show any sign of wear at the 106k mark. I always replace the belt, hydraulic tensioner, the 3 idler pulleys and the water pump. Parts are around $300 at advance or napa. While the belt is off check the crankshaft seal and the cam seals. I only change them if they are leaking. The head gasket job is expensive and can normally be checked for leakage while under the car. If they are not leaking leave them alone.
 

coachgeo

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Timing belt is what it is. There is advantage to "chain" but there is other advantage to "belt"

VW diesels are the same... 100000 miles and do the change or at 100001 to 130000.. you will regret it if you don't.

One I own now belt went at just over the hundred thousand... So I got it cheap cause of it. Owner lost big time... their loss..... my gain.

My previous one went hundred sixteen thousand before did the change and was fine.. you just never know.

All recommended items that are listed to be changed at same time...... DO IT for same reasons......... or it will be a waste of the funds you spent.

Job on a VW diesel is usually $1200.oo so your getting off good.
 

Tooljunkie

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I have personally done many Subaru timing belts. The belts seldom show any sign of wear at the 106k mark. I always replace the belt, hydraulic tensioner, the 3 idler pulleys and the water pump. Parts are around $300 at advance or napa. While the belt is off check the crankshaft seal and the cam seals. I only change them if they are leaking. The head gasket job is expensive and can normally be checked for leakage while under the car. If they are not leaking leave them alone.
If you are in there, why wouldnt you do the seals?
Did a caravan 3.0 and boss said no seals. 3 months later came back for seals and another belt. Did another one, boss said no pump. Same thing. Came back. Frustrated me to no end, do it once, do it right.
 

bearbait

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If you are in there, why wouldnt you do the seals?
Did a caravan 3.0 and boss said no seals. 3 months later came back for seals and another belt. Did another one, boss said no pump. Same thing. Came back. Frustrated me to no end, do it once, do it right.
"Do it once, do it right", good advice, money well spent.