Stuck Lugs

[barncat]

I know there must be a discussion on this issue before now but I could not find it. I have a 2012 L3200 with turf tires and I cant get the Lugs to budge. I have used liquid wrench for several days spraying at least twice a day. I have used a breaker bar wrench set with two guys on it, then an electric impact wrench, then an air wrench, nothing. I do not want to have to put a flame to my tractor wheel, are there any other suggestions?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Use a beaker bar with a cheater pipe on it, I've had to use a 3 foot pipe on some of the ones I've worked on!

 

[Tooljunkie]

Worst one i ever had the (dis)pleasure of dealing with i used a 4' pipe on my flex bar,horizontal and stood on it. A couple good bounces and it let go with a bang. Steel toe boots and a firm grip on something to prevent a fall. It can be painful if it isnt done right.

Block flex bar and drive tractor to crack nuts loose. A sketchy maneuver that could also go bad.

A little overtightened i would say.

 

[Lil Foot]

Had a request to loosen lug nuts on an old White semi tractor used for logging.
Tried various things, ended up with a 1" breaker bar 4' long, with a 6' cheater pipe & two guys pulling. Still took heat from a oxy/acetylene torch. That was a long afternoon.

 

[85Hokie]

I would jump up to a 1/2 drive, and like others said, increase the cheater bar length

 

[D2Cat]

85Hokie, you think he's using a 3/8" break over bar on those lugs? Maybe he needs to step up to 3/4"!

 

[85Hokie]

85Hokie, you think he's using a 3/8" break over bar on those lugs? Maybe he needs to step up to 3/4"!

true- true! Hell - I'm lucky if I could find a 3/4 drive....and then the correct socket!

 

[tiredguy]

Barncat,
try warming them up with a small propane torch some then give them a
couple of good soaking's using P Blaster or another good one is Break Away.
If you don't have either beez wax works great too once the lug nuts are
warmed up just let it melt in much like sweat soldering a copper pipe joint.
Still going to have to use a breaker bar and cheater pipe but once it's broke
lose it won't be a tough going or on the threads coming the rest of the way
off.
Al

 

[Boo]

I have face situations like this several times. I have always found that a pneumatic impact wrench will solve the problem.

However, I have had to go up to 3/4" or 1" to get er done.

The vibrating action does all the work rather than the force behind it; but sometimes, one also needs more force (and the right type of impact socket).

I have been amazed at how easy a job is when I see breaker bars, cheater bars, and heavy guys fail just to end up removing said nut with an impact wrench in seconds.

 

[Lil Foot]

You're probably right, my example was decades ago, when I was young & poor- couldn't afford an impact gun or the compressor to power it.

 

[Daren Todd]

I've had issues before where someone got quite froggy putting on the lug nuts for one of my trucks. Had a ford ranger where I bent my lug wrench that came with the truck as well as a 4 way lug wrench trying to get the blasted lug nuts loose.

Tire shop had installed them 6 months prior and the tech used the impact they had for semi's and the large ag tires. Ended up getting mad and taking the truck back to them and had them bust them back loose. Then I tightened them back up.

That was back before I had an impact and good compressor. Wife doesn't have enough butt to break the lug nuts loose on her car. Bought her a 3 foot breaker bar and socket to keep with a small floor jack in the trunk of her car. We tested it in the driveway just to make sure she could get them to break loose Still takes her jumping on the bar to get them loose.

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

 

[skeets]

The OL took her car to Sears one time,, they did the same thing,, and then wanted to charge me for braking them loose

 

[Tooljunkie]

I torque every wheel to spec.a drop of light oil if needed.older f150's had a bearing in the wheel nut, needed to oil them to get proper torque.
Never grease or anti-sieze.

 

[nzzshl]

Tired Guy's suggestion of the beeswax works nicely....you can gently pre-heat the nut/stud or wheel bolt(s) with a torch then melt the wax into the seat area and the stud end. I have used Sno-Seal Boot Waterproofing which is beeswax-based with great success. At most, I've had to do two thermal cyclings to get the nut or bolt off.

 

[Wbk]

If you don't have access to a decent 3/4 drive impact try using a 3/4 drive breaker bar with a long enough extension to clear the tire, put an axle stand under the extension and a fairly long pipe on the breaker bar and stand on it. There is too much spring in a 1/2 " drive and you slip or fall and get hurt.