Stuck hydraulic oil filter

TxTom

New member

Equipment
L3301
Sep 16, 2022
28
13
3
Leon County, Tx
Trying to change both hydraulic oil filters on my L3301 tractor. One was no problem but the one on the starboard side is stuck big time. This is the first time change and I've read that the factory paint can glue the filter on. I guess I need a longer breaker bar for my strap type filter wrench but is there a solvent or some better way?
 

DustyRusty

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2020 BX23S, BX2822 Snowblower, Curtis Deluxe Cab,
Nov 8, 2015
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See if you can purchase a filter cap that goes over the flats at the end of the filter. That and a long breaker bar will help. Depending on how much room you have under the tractor, the longer the pipe on the breaker bar, the easier it will be to come off. When I don't have much room, I have found that striking the breaker bar with a dead blow hammer will sometimes shock it enough to loosen.
 
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pigdoc

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G1800S L2500
Aug 19, 2022
279
207
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SE Pennsylvania
In a pinch, I've driven a long pry bar THROUGH both sides of the filter and used that for leverage.
That's junkyard tactics. But, it always works.

Reminds me of a story. Back around 1985, there were still a lot of old Chrysler V8 junkers coming in to the pick 'n' pulls. Harry's had 3 or 4 Chryslers with 413 big blocks in them. Those motors have a coveted long stroke, forged steel crankshaft. I got all those crankshafts for $25 each. Core value on them is $200. Thing is, because the pistons were all seized, you had window the block with a big hammer to get to the rod bolts on a couple of the cylinders. Yard didn't like that. Soon after, they changed the rules. If you pulled an engine, you had to buy the WHOLE thing. <evil grin>

The whole idea is that the cylinder block is just a holder for the crankshaft!

-Paul
 
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Pawnee

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L2501
Jul 1, 2021
349
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Ontario Canada
In a pinch, I've driven a long pry bar THROUGH both sides of the filter and used that for leverage.
That's junkyard tactics. But, it always works.
True, that does always work.
It can be a bit scary though so here is one more option.
Use the correct size end cap wrench but force it on with folded sandpaper between the wrench and filter so it doesn't slip.
 
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Dustyx2

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BX22, M7060, Landpride RC-2512, Woodmax SB84
Feb 19, 2021
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True, that does always work.
It can be a bit scary though so here is one more option.
Use the correct size end cap wrench but force it on with folded sandpaper between the wrench and filter so it doesn't slip.
Not always. Don't know how to attach a youtube video but Millenial Farmer had a video a couple of years ago trying to get a filter off of a JD tractor. Epic struggle. Don't remember for sure but I think the filter housing /base ended up being replaced.
 

DustyRusty

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2020 BX23S, BX2822 Snowblower, Curtis Deluxe Cab,
Nov 8, 2015
6,145
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North East CT
In a pinch, I've driven a long pry bar THROUGH both sides of the filter and used that for leverage.
That's junkyard tactics. But, it always works.

Reminds me of a story. Back around 1985, there were still a lot of old Chrysler V8 junkers coming in to the pick 'n' pulls. Harry's had 3 or 4 Chryslers with 413 big blocks in them. Those motors have a coveted long stroke, forged steel crankshaft. I got all those crankshafts for $25 each. Core value on them is $200. Thing is, because the pistons were all seized, you had window the block with a big hammer to get to the rod bolts on a couple of the cylinders. Yard didn't like that. Soon after, they changed the rules. If you pulled an engine, you had to buy the WHOLE thing. <evil grin>

The whole idea is that the cylinder block is just a holder for the crankshaft!

-Paul
I recognized the name of the yard and visited there only once about 15 years ago. Too big to walk to the far end where they kept the older cars. Found a few parts and bought them, but never went back. It is just too far off of the interstate to make the trip when I want to get to Carlisle before dark. Going to be headed to Carlisle next week for the fall swap meet.
 

ruger1980

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L4310 w/La682, L225
Oct 25, 2020
395
145
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CNY
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Muggman

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Jun 11, 2022
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17
8
SC
I use large Channel lock type pliers. The secret is to grip the flange where the cup is crimped to the flange. It will not crush the filter there and it imparts all the force directly to the flange and gasket.


I had a stuck filter on a inline six. It crushed with oil filter wrench. I drove a large screw driver thru it and it twisted off at the crimp. I got a chisel on the inside of the oil filter ring and drove it around. Treaded nipple screwed out, replaced and installed new filter.
 
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TxTom

New member

Equipment
L3301
Sep 16, 2022
28
13
3
Leon County, Tx
Trying to change both hydraulic oil filters on my L3301 tractor. One was no problem but the one on the starboard side is stuck big time. This is the first time change and I've read that the factory paint can glue the filter on. I guess I need a longer breaker bar for my strap type filter wrench but is there a solvent or some better way?


Well, I finally got that stuck filter off. Soaked the connection with WD40 and used a cheater pipe on my racket. I wasn't sure what would break first.
 
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pigdoc

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G1800S L2500
Aug 19, 2022
279
207
43
SE Pennsylvania
Glad you got it loose.
Just for future reference, WD-40 is not really a penetrating oil. "WD" stands for "Water Displacer". If you have a wet distributor cap preventing starting, flip it over, and spray the inside with WD-40 to get to the "Start" condition quicker.

Everyone has their favorite "panther pee", and I have sworn by Kroil. Good stuff.
Then, lugbolt turned me on to PJ-1, which is a bicycle shop cable lubricant. The claim is that it has superior penetrating ability. I haven't tried it yet. I have a case on back-order.

Then again, I try to stay away from rusty fasteners. About 20 years ago, I bought a 1970 Dodge pickup out of the Mojave Desert. When I disassembled it, I was blown away at how ALL the fasteners abided by their factory torquing. Even the bumper bolts. I'm moving to New Mexico. Find me in Farley.

-Paul
 
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TxTom

New member

Equipment
L3301
Sep 16, 2022
28
13
3
Leon County, Tx
Glad you got it loose.
Just for future reference, WD-40 is not really a penetrating oil. "WD" stands for "Water Displacer". If you have a wet distributor cap preventing starting, flip it over, and spray the inside with WD-40 to get to the "Start" condition quicker.

Everyone has their favorite "panther pee", and I have sworn by Kroil. Good stuff.
Then, lugbolt turned me on to PJ-1, which is a bicycle shop cable lubricant. The claim is that it has superior penetrating ability. I haven't tried it yet. I have a case on back-order.

Then again, I try to stay away from rusty fasteners. About 20 years ago, I bought a 1970 Dodge pickup out of the Mojave Desert. When I disassembled it, I was blown away at how ALL the fasteners abided by their factory torquing. Even the bumper bolts. I'm moving to New Mexico. Find me in Farley.

-Paul

I used WD40 because I saw a UTube video of a guy using it to loosen a stuck filter.
 

DustyRusty

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2020 BX23S, BX2822 Snowblower, Curtis Deluxe Cab,
Nov 8, 2015
6,145
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North East CT
Don't believe everything that you see on youtube. I was watching a video of a fellow removing a rear brake drum from a 1950s automobile that had the drum stuck to a tapered axle stub with a 400-pound torque 1 1/4" bolt holding it onto the axle. He took the bolt off with a pair of pliers and used a steering wheel puller to remove the drum. I am old enough to have worked on these types of brakes, and I know that you need a special puller that bolts to the drum, and then you screw a pointed drive screw into the center of the axle and beat on the wings of the puller with a sledgehammer to get it loose. You have to keep the nut on the axle because when it breaks loose, it will come flying off. This joker told people to use never seize on the axle when reinstalling it and that the key way key was enough to hold everything together. Nothing could be further from the truth. Anyone watching that video would lose their brakes the first time that they did a panic stop. The key would shear and the brake shoes wouldn't be able to stop the car. There are some great videos on youtube, but some are just pure entertainment, not educational.
 
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Mark_BX25D

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Bx25D
Jul 19, 2020
1,676
1,190
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Virginia
There are some great videos on youtube, but some are just pure entertainment, not educational.

To be a bit more blunt about it, there are some great videos on YouTube, but some are just pure entertainment scam, intended to get views for money, with no intention of being helpful.

Some are dangerous.


WD-40 works great for displacing water, it's a mediocre lubricant, and not much better than spit as a penetrating oil.

Kroil is great, but expensive, and PB Blaster is good. I get it in the gallon can with a spray bottle. Works better than the aerosol can, I think, because I can control it better. Deep Creep from Seafoam is just as good, or a tad better, IMO.
 

whitetiger

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Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
Nov 20, 2011
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Kansas City, KS
I used WD40 because I saw a UTube video of a guy using it to loosen a stuck filter.
Sooooooo, you thought that spraying something around the filter would soak in and loosen a fluid-tight joint with a rubber seal?
 
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TxTom

New member

Equipment
L3301
Sep 16, 2022
28
13
3
Leon County, Tx
All I know is the WD40 and the long cheater pipe broke the filter loose. Maybe the WD40 wasn't needed but I was sure happy when that filter started turning.
 

Flintknapper

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L2350DT
May 3, 2022
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Deep East Texas
All I know is the WD40 and the long cheater pipe broke the filter loose. Maybe the WD40 wasn't needed but I was sure happy when that filter started turning.
In the case of a fluid filter....yes the WD (or any other lubricant) wasn't needed.....because the friction is a result of the rubber seal used and no lubricant is going to get past that (if its still doing its job).

BUT....it is just second nature to spray something on things that are stuck....so no harm. (y)

The cheater pipe provided you the leverage needed to break the filter loose.

Good job! Perseverance paid off.
 
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