Stubborn 3-Point Upper Lift Arm Pin Removal

[HighMoon]

I am in the process of putting a Top N Tilt kit on my L5740. I am having trouble getting the upper lift arm lift pins out of the arm. Does anyone have any tips for getting that guy out. I soaked it in penetrating oil and tried banging on it a bit. I thought before I get more aggressive with it I'd see if someone else has dealt with this and see what worked for them. Picture attached.

Thanks.

 

[Captain13]

Try taking a floor jack or bottle jack and take some pressure off the end of the lift arm. Just jack it up till it starts to move the arm. That should take the stress off the pin so it slides out.

 

[armylifer]

Do you have a ball joint remover (sometimes called a pickle fork)? You might be able to use that.

 

[HighMoon]

Try taking a floor jack or bottle jack and take some pressure off the end of the lift arm. Just jack it up till it starts to move the arm. That should take the stress off the pin so it slides out.

Thanks, but other than the lift link weight, there isn't any stress on it. I removed the lower lift arm already.

 

[HighMoon]

Do you have a ball joint remover (sometimes called a pickle fork)? You might be able to use that.

Good idea. I know exactly what you talking about. I don't have one but can pick up.

 

[Matt Ellerbee]

Heat. Then some more heat on the lift arm. I’m betting that pin is tapered like a ball joint. Put the nut back on and after heating, wack with a hammer.

 

[HighMoon]

Heat. Then some more heat on the lift arm. I’m betting that pin is tapered like a ball joint. Put the nut back on and after heating, wack with a hammer.

Thanks. I'm going to pick up a ball joint remover. It it is still resisting with that I will give it some heat.

 

[Captain13]

Treat it like a tie rod end. Take a hammer and give it a good shot where the pin goes through the arm. Then try tapping it out. A ball joint press will do it if the pickle fork won’t. You can borrow those from Advance Auto or Autozone for free. Just pay a deposit that is returned when you return the press. It’s a big heavy C-clamp with adapters for the pin, ball joints, u-joints, etc to slide into.

 

[HighMoon]

Treat it like a tie rod end. Take a hammer and give it a good shot where the pin goes through the arm. Then try tapping it out. A ball joint press will do it if the pickle fork won’t. You can borrow those from Advance Auto or Autozone for free. Just pay a deposit that is returned when you return the press. It’s a big heavy C-clamp with adapters for the pin, ball joints, u-joints, etc to slide into.

I have an Autozone just down the road and they should have that. Thanks Captain.

 

[armylifer]

Treat it like a tie rod end. Take a hammer and give it a good shot where the pin goes through the arm. Then try tapping it out. A ball joint press will do it if the pickle fork won’t. You can borrow those from Advance Auto or Autozone for free. Just pay a deposit that is returned when you return the press. It’s a big heavy C-clamp with adapters for the pin, ball joints, u-joints, etc to slide into.

I found out about Autozone loaning a ball joint press after I went and bought one from Harbor Freight many years ago. I have used it to remove bearings from a differential carrier when I rebuilt it with lower gearing. It was fairly cheap at about $59.00 but I have only used it a very few times. Your suggestion about borrowing one from an auto parts store is a good one if you only need it once or twice in a lifetime.

 

[HighMoon]

Thought I would report back that a 1-7/16" gap pickle fork worked perfect. Wide enough to not damage the ball joint on the upper end of the links but narrow enough to catch the ball socket face. Tapped the fork in to give it good tension, then tapped on the threaded end of the pin, and it shot out like a bullet.

Thanks for the advice guys!