Straping points on L3800 W/FEL

[bambam31]

I've got to take my tractor to the dealer for it's 50 hour service. Where should I attach the straps for trailering? I have a brush guard on the front and thought I'd attach the straps there. Not so sure about the back. Thanks

 

[CaveCreekRay]

Helpful hints:

-Watch your CG. Make SURE you have at least 200lbs on the hitch ball, otherwise the trailer can start whipsawing and toss your tractor in seconds before you can stop.

-Many people like to use the bucket to prevent the machine from moving forward on the trailer. If the bucket is forward, put it firm against the front of the trailer. If the machine is on backwards, drop the bucket lip over the back of the trailer, if there is room to do so.

I ran my chain around the hitch ball on the rear. You can also wrap it around the rear axle of the machine. In the front, you can either use the brush guard or run the strap through the loader cross-over tube. My dealer made big points with me by running a chain through this tube and chipping my paint. A strap would be a better idea or use cardboard on the corners to protect the paint when you cinch down the chain or strap.

When strapping, remember to tension the chains/straps as far away from one another as possible. If you chain right below the attach point, the machine will move. If you fix the rear strap six feet behind the machine and the front strap 6 feet in front, there is much less likelihood that the machine will move. Use heavy 8-10,000 lb strapping (Home Depot $13!!!) . I have seen machines tied with motorcycle straps and this is absolutely unsafe.

If you only have one chain, use the chain on the rear of the trailer and then cinch the chain tight with the front strap. If you are involved in an accident, the chain will take a lot more than even a 10,000 lb strap in stopping forces.

Double check your tire pressures, both on the trailer AND on the machine -even for a short haul. Low pressure tires on the machine make it "squishy" on the trailer under way and low pressure trailer tires will overheat quickly under load. And, unless you haul on that specific trailer with that specific machine on a regular basis, verify the stability of the load every 10 mph, starting at 20mph. And, when you first get rolling, make absolutely sure the trailer brakes are functioning by trying a firm stop at a low speed. Then go up to 30. Wiggle the steering wheel to upset the trailer slightly. If all settles back to normal, go to 40mph and repeat. Keep it under 60mph unless you are pulling with a semi-tractor trailer (heavy) class vehicle. The combined weight of the machine and trailer is considerable.

Hope that helps...

 

[Kingcreek]

Good advice from Ray^.
I use 2 HD straps with axle straps on the front going to the corners and a chain binder and chain through a clevis in the rear draw bar to the other 2 corners of the trailer. I've hauled it 60 miles over rough roads with no problems with an F250 SuperDuty. the FEL and any rear 3pt implements should be strapped or chained down separately.
I will admit to sometimes cutting some corners on a short local haul. Last year I was hauling mine and after several miles of rough road I stopped just to recheck everything before pulling onto a state highway. As soon as I got out an unmarked state trooper pulled over and asked if I had a problem. I said No, just rechecking my straps and chains. He got out and looked it over and then complimented me. He said they have real serious problems with some of the loads and binding people try to get by with. He said the salvage and scrap haulers are the absolute worst.

 

[CaveCreekRay]

I was using my friend's trailer and had the machine well chained. Only problem was it was light on the hitch (only about 100lbs). Everything was nice and smooth and then, at about 30mph, the trailer started whipsawing moderately and the tractor was leaning over as well. I recovered (DON'T SLAM ON THE BRAKES!) and re-bound the machine further forward. A mile or two down the road at about 45 it started again to a lesser degree. This time I went as far forward as possible. I probably had 300 lbs on the hitch and it remained stable for the short drive (10 mi) to the dealer. The ass of my truck was dragging.

If I hadn't had that piggy cinched down well, I might have aggravated the high CG enough to roll the tractor or decouple the trailer. It wasn't close but, I shuddered to think what might have happened had I accelerated right up to highway speeds and had it go unstable.

On the way home, I still "twitch" checked it to see if it would go stable or unstable. It was nice and stable so I kept it nice and slow as insurance.

It would really suck to dump your sweet little machine because of a trailering "DOH!!"

 

[Kingcreek]

The weight and suspension of the tow vehicle can make a big difference too!
also, I like trailer brakes. and 2 axles w brakes are better than 1.
When things go wrong in a coupled system, they can go really wrong, really fast.

 

[ShaunRH]

When toting my L3200 around, we used chains and the axles as the anchor points. It's hard on paint but a solid mounting system. I haven't put mounting eyes/hooks on the unit yet.

I usually put the unit where I want it forward and chain down tight so it cannot move further back. Then I take the rear chain(s) and pull backward really cinching down the tractor. With lever binders, I make sure they are wire tied (wired) shut. I also stop after the first significant bump in the road and check the chains.

You can see that setup on the photo below, the dealer did this one and it's generally what I do:

 

[Kingcreek]

Save your paint.
I use these but I think mine are heavier and 3" wide.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...fwxSjaHauB6OL0fd2gBEpT9Opv20KGZoSKxoCTYjw_wcB

 

[ShaunRH]

I'm going to make me up a set of banjo eye brackets along with chain tubes for the purpose. She's only been hauled around twice. This is the trailer I own for hauling the L3200 around:

http://bigtextrailers.com/60ch-tandem-axle-car-hauler-special/

The one you see in the picture belongs to the dealer.

I will put the brackets on to do this for hauling and pulling things around the property, maybe some D rings too. Can never have enough mount points for work!

 

[Bulldog]

This is the trailer I own for hauling the L3200 around:

//bigtextrailers.com/60ch-tandem-axle-car-hauler-special/

Pretty nice looking trailer. I had one about like that but it just didn't have enough hauling capacity and mine was made out of tubing instead of angle.

 

[bambam31]

Thanks for the feedback!

 

[Kennyd4110]

Here's an older thread with some great info: http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14253

 

[Tooljunkie]

I prefer to cross chain on the rear of the tractor. I have only trailered it once, to bring it home. Have trailered tractors lots,as part of my job. It was set up with
Chains only used to secure machine to trailer. I have since welded a buch of d-rings to my trailer for chaining it on in either direction if needed. Safe and secure at all times, even if its only a mile. Bad things happen in the blink of an eye. That is when the worst things happen.

 

[blank102]

When toting my L3200 around, we used chains and the axles as the anchor points. It's hard on paint but a solid mounting system. I haven't put mounting eyes/hooks on the unit yet.

I usually put the unit where I want it forward and chain down tight so it cannot move further back. Then I take the rear chain(s) and pull backward really cinching down the tractor. With lever binders, I make sure they are wire tied (wired) shut. I also stop after the first significant bump in the road and check the chains.

You can see that setup on the photo below, the dealer did this one and it's generally what I do:

What weight rating does your trailer hold?

 

[Bulldog]

What weight rating does your trailer hold?

According to the listed specs the GVWR is 6K. It has 3500# axles and it lists the 16' model weighs 1670 lbs.

 

[ShaunRH]

Bulldog has it correct. It can haul even my pickup so I am fine with the 4330lb useable capacity.

I'm working on the stake sides for it right now...

 

[Bulldog]

I like your tool box. I put a small one on mine. I had to leave room for the winch and it's battery.

 

[ShaunRH]

Harbor Freight. With 20% off coupon it was under $100.

I left 1" behind the box so I can drop a winch down with a grab plate. Only need it to haul stuff up onto the trailer but I haven't acquired it yet anyway. I have a come-a-along in the tool case for the moment.

Nobody tells you that when you buy one of these, the trailer needs about $600 in accessories to work right...

 

[ShaunBlake]

Nobody tells you that when you buy one of these, the trailer needs about $600 in accessories to work right...

Yep!

However, nobody said anything about once you buy a tractor and attachment/implement you "need", you've only just started to fork over buckets of bucks for "stuff". Shouldn't discovering that have provided a hint?

 

[ShaunRH]

Yep!

However, nobody said anything about once you buy a tractor and attachment/implement you "need", you've only just started to fork over buckets of bucks for "stuff". Shouldn't discovering that have provided a hint?

After years of buying stuff, I don't think I've ever learned this lesson, except in real-estate. I guess the more something costs the more it hurts to accessorize!

 

[ShaunBlake]

I left 1" behind the box so I can drop a winch down with a grab plate.

I commend your foresight. But I'm stumped how you're going to utilize that inch of space. Could you elaborate, or perhaps to avoid hijacking the thread, post info and pics on what you're doing?