So it’s been a few years since I owned a tractor until now, so my bush hog has been sitting. I got it pulled out and apparently I ran into something the last time I used it and bent part of it. Any tips on straightening it out? Thanks
Straightening ideas
- Thread starter IronRyan
- Start date
Foxrunfarms
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota LX2610, 1951 Farmall M, 1967 John Deere 110 Rf, 2010 Arctic Cat 700
Howse brush hog? I'm in market for a used brush hog and a lot of that brand are on market place and auctions. Most seemed to be tweaked a little bit...........one the whole 3 point connection was ripped off.
Do you have a loader on a tractor I'd try to bump it into place, or chain it to something and lightly pull. You could also take off the 3 point hook up and heat up the bottom plate and try to bend it back with a hammer or pipe wrench.
Are there any welding or fab shops near by they could probably work their magic.
Do you have a loader on a tractor I'd try to bump it into place, or chain it to something and lightly pull. You could also take off the 3 point hook up and heat up the bottom plate and try to bend it back with a hammer or pipe wrench.
Are there any welding or fab shops near by they could probably work their magic.
You want it to just work or you want it repaired right?
If you just want it to work, you can drill the hole out a little so the pin can move a little and make it easier to line up with tractor links.
If you want it right, you are probably going to have to take it to someone that can heat and bend, unless you have the tools, or know someone that has the tools and knowledge to do it. Not very difficult to repair with the right tools. Very dangerous without the right tools! That is some thick metal. If you start to try bending it back just by pulling on it with a winch or come along, be careful. I know lots of people with permanent damage from doing stuff similar to this, though it is absolutely possible to do.
If you just want it to work, you can drill the hole out a little so the pin can move a little and make it easier to line up with tractor links.
If you want it right, you are probably going to have to take it to someone that can heat and bend, unless you have the tools, or know someone that has the tools and knowledge to do it. Not very difficult to repair with the right tools. Very dangerous without the right tools! That is some thick metal. If you start to try bending it back just by pulling on it with a winch or come along, be careful. I know lots of people with permanent damage from doing stuff similar to this, though it is absolutely possible to do.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
looks pretty easy..
remove the black vertical section ....
put big pipe wrench on red tab,handle on PTO shaft side...
extend PW handle with pipe..
gently yet firmly, pull pipe to bend red tab back where it belongs...
may take 2-3 pulls to get it tweaked just right.
reattach black bar...
go hogging...
remove the black vertical section ....
put big pipe wrench on red tab,handle on PTO shaft side...
extend PW handle with pipe..
gently yet firmly, pull pipe to bend red tab back where it belongs...
may take 2-3 pulls to get it tweaked just right.
reattach black bar...
go hogging...
It’s a Rollins, I’ve had it probably 15 years, I don’t think they are in business any more. It’s a decent hog
A 3 foot pipe wrench and cheater pipe should twist that back into the correct position. Just need to block the mower so it wont slide. It's surprising what you can bend with a tool that size. A steel Harbor Break 3 foot is $25, but well worth every penny even if you only need to use it once.
If it were just the plate, sure. But look at the frame on the right side of the picture.
That 3 point frame can moved back into correct position with the 3 foot pipe wrench and cheater pipe. I have done the same repair on a three point box blade. Just use a long enough pipe to go over the whole wrench handle - not just at the end - to avoid breaking the wrench.
When you do what post #4 and #6 describe you can fine tune the last bit of adjustment by finding a heavy wall pipe that will fit over the pin (long and stout) and torque it some more!
NCL4701
Well-known member
Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Maybe I’m looking at it wrong but it doesn’t look like the bend is the worst issue you have there. For the bend, the pipe wrench idea is a good one if you can warm it up good (not cherry, but hot) and pull it back. If you leave it bolted together, it’s going to take a lot of force to cold bend it with steady pressure. To cold bend I'd probably chock it against something that isn’t going to move (like a good size tree), then bump it back with a sledge (thinking of my old 16 pounder; don’t think the 8 lb would do it) hitting it just hard enough to move it so as not tear any welds or rip the deck where it’s welded to the hitch mount. If you bum up the bolt doing that and ever need to remove it you might be removing it with an angle grinder but I wouldn’t think that would be a big deal.
Speaking of tearing welds, when I first looked at the pics I was kind of surprised it bent that far without tearing the deck or busting a weld at least a little. Then I zoomed in…
Straight side…
Bent side…
Looks like you have a pretty good tear in the deck there beside where the hitch mount attaches to the deck on the side toward the center. If it is torn there, straightening the hitch is only one step in the repair as that tear is almost certain to get worse when you straighten it and most likely will continue to get worse with use.
If you don’t weld, I’d suggest get it fixed by someone who does. A decent welder/fabricator should be able to warm up the hitch, bend it back, and mend the tear in the deck pretty easily.
If I’m misinterpreting the pics, I’d chock it against a tree and slowly bend it back with large sledge. If you don’t have a 16lb to 20lb hammer it’s not a bad investment. Every now and then it’s handy to have an “It’s your own fault, I done told you to move” hammer.
Speaking of tearing welds, when I first looked at the pics I was kind of surprised it bent that far without tearing the deck or busting a weld at least a little. Then I zoomed in…
Straight side…
Bent side…
Looks like you have a pretty good tear in the deck there beside where the hitch mount attaches to the deck on the side toward the center. If it is torn there, straightening the hitch is only one step in the repair as that tear is almost certain to get worse when you straighten it and most likely will continue to get worse with use.
If you don’t weld, I’d suggest get it fixed by someone who does. A decent welder/fabricator should be able to warm up the hitch, bend it back, and mend the tear in the deck pretty easily.
If I’m misinterpreting the pics, I’d chock it against a tree and slowly bend it back with large sledge. If you don’t have a 16lb to 20lb hammer it’s not a bad investment. Every now and then it’s handy to have an “It’s your own fault, I done told you to move” hammer.
Foxrunfarms
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota LX2610, 1951 Farmall M, 1967 John Deere 110 Rf, 2010 Arctic Cat 700
Came across this one for sale. Really scratching my head on how the person was miss using it to get that outcome.
I see the area that looks torn / cracked in the photo now. Hard to tell with the dead leaves and dirt, but will need welded if it is. Yes, the mower will need to be held by something to prevent moving, and heating with a torch set in correct place(s) would definitely reduce the force required to twist back into position, but if it is not cracked, and he doesn't have torches, it would be worth a shot trying to cold bend.
NCL4701
Well-known member
Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
True. Worst thing that could happen would be nothing so not a real downside to trying.
No tear that I can see. I was able to zoom way in on it. It's just shadows from the leaf buildup.
Should be an easy fix with a little heat.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
re: bent black frame
another easy one, it appears to be twisted...kinda hard to see though
remove from mower deck
place lower section in vice
add a good amount of heat( blue wrench..)
use the big pipewrench and cheater...
bend upper section of frame to become straight
as for the 350$ bushhog, a 10T portapower and a solid table can rebend to near factory condition
it's about having patience, a plan and some proper tools
another easy one, it appears to be twisted...kinda hard to see though
remove from mower deck
place lower section in vice
add a good amount of heat( blue wrench..)
use the big pipewrench and cheater...
bend upper section of frame to become straight
as for the 350$ bushhog, a 10T portapower and a solid table can rebend to near factory condition
it's about having patience, a plan and some proper tools
Foxrunfarms
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota LX2610, 1951 Farmall M, 1967 John Deere 110 Rf, 2010 Arctic Cat 700
Foxrunfarms
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota LX2610, 1951 Farmall M, 1967 John Deere 110 Rf, 2010 Arctic Cat 700
In the long run probably the easiest, cheapest, and safest thing to do.
Back on the farm, if it’d still hook up to the three point, we’d have just run it as is. I’m guessing it won’t mount up properly. Most any of the suggestions above will get it done. Your welder should be able to make quick work of it.