Stinky Water Fixed

[Roadworthy]

I'm on a well, pump at about 440 feet. Water picked up a rotten egg smell and taste. Pour a glass, let sit overnight, it's fine. My pressure tanks have been losing pressure. I replaced them. Water went back to tasting like water - basically no taste. Both tanks on removal had water. One drained fine left alone. The other would not drain. Added pressure and still wouldn't drain. Pulled air valve and it began draining freely. I now have a lovely rust stain in my carport. The investment in new pressure tanks was far less than a water processing system would have been and I can probably wash the rusty residue away. I'd say I had a very happy ending.

 

[NCL4701]

Interesting. RV’s with water heaters that don’t have zinc anodes (ones with aluminum tanks) tend to have the rotten egg issue if stored with water in them between uses. There’s some kind of anaerobic bacteria that grows in the stagnant tank water. Once it’s in there, a simple flushing by opening taps and letting the water run a while isn’t sufficient; the tank has to be drained and cleaned with peroxide. The steel tanks that have zinc anodes don’t have that problem. First camper we had was a steel with zinc anode water heater; never an issue. Second one was the “upgrade” aluminum tank water heater and I got to learn all about the rotten egg smell, how to fix it, and how to prevent it (drain tank when not in use).

Interesting that you have multiple pressure tanks in a single system. Sounds like one of them somehow got to where it was holding water but not releasing it, at least not in sufficient quantity to prevent the anaerobic bacteria growth that produces the rotten egg smell/taste.

 

[RDinNHandAZ]

I think it actually is an anerobic bacteria from the Phyla Pseudomonadota. In my experience chlorine will kill it and the sulfur smell is gone. Oxygen is lethal for it too. Some well systems with naturally occurring iron need constant treatment to avoid the smell and the gelatinous build up that accompanies it. That gell is probably what clogged the tank. Flush everything with water and then with a solution of 1/2 cup of bleach in a few gallons of water and repeat the water flush and Bobs your uncle! YMMV

 

[The Evil Twin]

We had a similar issue. I found it was only the hot water. I turned it up to 130 and it's mostly gone. It was too low at 115.
Now I just dump the RV freshwater tank into the well when I sanitize it a couple times a year. I figure the overchlorinated water mixing with the well gives it some antibacterial properties.

 

[RCW]

Sometimes that gelatinous growth will show in toilet tanks. If there’s an orange or grey/black stain in the tank is an indicator of iron or manganese.

I used to recommend periodic shocking as detailed above just as a maintenance item to keep it in check.

 

[pigdoc]

"rotten egg smell" is an indicator of coliform bacterial activity in the water. The OP's bad pressure tank was probably contaminated.

Best $250 I ever spent was for a Reverse Osmosis system for the water in my house. Easy to install, filter cost is about $50 a year. Much preferable to deliveries of water! The one I bought is designed to be under-sink, but I didn't want to fill up that space, and didn't want to be standing on my head to change filters. So, I located it in my utility room and bought a 25-foot length of 1/4" tubing to get the water from the system to the kitchen sink.

I also have a sediment filter upstream of the RO system, because my well is only 50 feet deep, and we get a lot of red clay sediment coming up. That filter wants to be changed every 3 months.

-Paul

 

[lynnmor]

Most pressure tanks today have a rubber like bladder that separates the air from the water. When that bladder breaks whatever is in the air side will be mixed with the water and that may be rust, bacteria or numerous other disgusting things. I believe that was the problem that the OP was dealing with, and the only fix of course is replacement.

Nearly all water heaters have an anode rod, magnesium is commonly used since it gives great protection. Aluminum might be used for certain water problems and aluminum/zinc rods help with odor problems. Since few people ever change the anodes, water heaters have a short life if the water is a problem.

 

[Roadworthy]

Interesting responses. Thanks, guys. Since all is now well I have concluded the problem was compromised pressure tanks. I feared my aquifer was contaminated. I do run the house water through a couple filters but not the water for irrigation. The house had two pressure tanks when I moved in so I've just kept it that way. I figure that means the pump only has to start half as often. That five horse pump has to put a LOT of torque on 440 feet of drop pipe.

 

[Henro]

Boy, all I can say is that I am glad I am on city water! I feel the maintenance pain for those who have wells.

Except for the water bill that is...and a bit over ten years ago sewers came through the area...that doubles the bill since the sewage is based on water consumption...but the little creek, and I mean LITTLE, behind my pond does not smell like sewage anymore...so there are benefits...all the up hill houses, not many but enough, used to drain their sewage into that little creek...

 

[RCW]

Roadworthy- generally, “sulfur water” is “older” water from a deeper source. Often highly mineralized because it’s been in contact with rocks for a long time. Connotation is it’s also protected from contamination.

Oddly, that hard, stinky water is often good for you, because it does contribute to your dietary intake of minerals like calcium and iron. Unfortunately, it’s often objectionable for odor, plumbing fixture staining, laundry, and other aesthetic characteristics.

Some harmless anaerobic bacteria can produce hydrogen sulfide in that environment. Hence, the sulfur smell.

I’m not aware of coliforms producing hydrogen sulfide in that manner in groundwater, but certainly a raw sewage discharge can have that characteristic. At 440 feet to top of pump, I think you’re generally protected from that unless it seeped down an annular space along the casing.

Some folks have luck with a wellhead pellet chlorinator to control sulfur as well as oxidation of iron and manganese. As someone said, if there’s chlorine, there’s no sulfur.

Your case sounds simple enough and is behind you.

If you wanted, you could shock the well a couple times a year. Pour chlorine solution down well as noted above. Run water inside in a bunch of taps until you can smell bleach, then shut everything off and let sit for a couple hours. Then flush out an outside hose bib.

I had a friend with a deep well and a bunch of harmless iron/manganese bacteria. First time he did that process, he could have filled a couple buckets of disinfected bacterial mass…oozed out of the hose bib like thin black jelly….

Take care.

 

[Henro]

When I was a kid there was an amusement part not too far from where I lived. One of two in Pittsburgh, called Westview Park. The larger one is still around called Kennywood.

Anyway, they had a public drinking fountain that had probably eight pipes sticking up, and all spouted this stinky sulfur smelling liquid. I assume it was from a well. People drank it all the time, as I remember doing as well.

 

[johnjk]

We are on well and have a ton of iron and our water is off the scale for harness. No smell from cold but a ton from the hot water. I ended up replacing the anode with an electronic anode and the problem is gone. We have a softener and a RO system for drinking water.