Steering cylinder leaking... from somewhere?

[markls]

L2900 appears to be leaking hydraulic fluid from the front. In the first pic, leaking on the center of the front axle, from above. I think it's leaking from the part in the other photos. There is oil on the cross-member underneath it. Does anyone know what part this is (that has the shiny cylinder)... can't figure it out based on diagrams.

If you know the part, what would cause this to start leaking suddenly? I was full of hydraulic fluid and lost half of it by the time I realized I was leaving a trail. It seems to leak more when in use. Replacing the whole part, or is there a seal or connection that could be leaking?
THANKS!

Help from another forum said it's the steering cylinder. Suggestions on typical failure or things to check (loose fitting, hoses, etc.) are appreciated!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Looks like it's blow a cylinder seal or seals.

 

[N3BP]

It's somewhere in your steering cylinder. It must be somewhat common for them to fail after a period of time. The cylinder in my L3010 is currently out of the machine at the local hydraulic shop being rebuilt. If you chose to do it yourself, your looking at about $115-120 in parts. I chose to send mine out because the chrome is pitted and I wanted that addressed. They are not difficult to remove. Mark the hydraulic lines. Radiator does not have to be removed despite with the service manual says. Check your bushings for excessive wear and grease them when installing.

 

[markls]

Looks like it's blow a cylinder seal or seals.

View attachment 100627

Thanks. Looks to be a blown seal on the rear side/end of the cylinder (closest to the engine block).

 

[GeoHorn]

I just replaced my steering cylinder…in my tractor which is about the same age as yours…(approx 25 years by now)….. Steering cyls are high-useage items (you run that cylinder more than most others) ….and down where they get abused by dirt, brush, sticks, rocks, etc…

If you can rebuild yours that’s great. Mine had been superceded by a newer/later design during the production-run of the model and my cyl was the earlier type…which someone had also already messed with previously causing unseen damage… So I had to buy a Complete New Later-design cylinder. Ended up costing about $1500 (part). (link to the entire story: https://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/threads/steering-cylinder.60255/#post-585474

 

[lugbolt]

yeah the new cylinders are updated. I don't know what's updated, I've not had to take one apart. The originals can be rebuilt. I cannot say which or even IF the seals are updated, however.

in the past when I've had them apart, I've found worn bushings in the glands. If you're rebuilding the cylinder make sure to check the rod and glands well. If you have to put a rod and glands in it, it's probably better to just replace the assembly--then everything's updated.

Not terribly hard to rebuild them. Also not easy for a non-mechanically inclined individual. I felt that was worth mentioning since I've been contacted in the past by people who say "you said it was easy...."

 

[N3BP]

Interesting, I wonder what was updated on them? I saw a new cylinder is about $1450 from Messicks and figured I could have it rebuilt for about half that. If it lasts another 22 years, that be great.

I attempted to dissemble mine, but right of the bat the rod eye would not unscrew and fought me. Before the vice rips off the bench, I thought just take it somewhere lol.

 

[lugbolt]

Interesting, I wonder what was updated on them? I saw a new cylinder is about $1450 from Messicks and figured I could have it rebuilt for about half that. If it lasts another 22 years, that be great.

I attempted to dissemble mine, but right of the bat the rod eye would not unscrew and fought me. Before the vice rips off the bench, I thought just take it somewhere lol.

i've always used a little well-placed heat to get the eye off. Has never failed.

 

[markls]

Appreciate the help.

Hoses disconnected and unbolted. The Rod end plate is removed, but the shaft is still in. Do I push or knock it upward to get it out? You can see the top of it in the picture.

Also having difficulties getting the front support piece out. Are the bolts on the bottom and the side skirts the only connections holding it in (and the bolts behind the air filter)?

Thanks.

 

[N3BP]

Appreciate the help.

Hoses disconnected and unbolted. The Rod end plate is removed, but the shaft is still in. Do I push or knock it upward to get it out? You can see the top of it in the picture.

Also having difficulties getting the front support piece out. Are the bolts on the bottom and the side skirts the only connections holding it in (and the bolts behind the air filter)?

That pin simply lifts out, but yours looks rusted in place. Soak it with penetrating oil then try again. You might try a large vice grip players to twist it out. Wire wheel it clean and grease it well before installing. I’ll try to get some pics of the support mounting locations tomorrow. I don’t recall the mounting locations without looking at it.

 

[N3BP]

Mine has two bolts at the top and six at the bottom. Some screw in from the bottom. I remember one or two broke off in the process due to rust. That particular area rusts quick if your battery leaks acid. I had to replace the support and battery tray because it rusted to nothing.
Also, you might consider putting a socket on your floor jack and press that rusted pin upward. You may have to lightly hammer the rad support bracket too as it appears rusted to your frame.

 

[markls]

Got both taken care of! Thanks for the help. A little banging with a hammer helped loosen the front support rust and it pulled right off. I had to "drift out" the rod end with a hammer from underneath to break the rust, and now it's all out!