I have a BX1500. Once in a while the engine does not turn over. When the key is turned to the start position all of the lights turn on, there is a audible click but the engine does not turn over. I have had success moving the forward/reverse lever back and forth with the ignition in the start position. This can happen with a cold start, or a hot restart. Starting motor was replaced about one year ago. Not many starts on this new motor. Battery voltage looks good. Any thoughts on what to check? Does anyone have a part number for the neutral safety switch?
Starting problem
- Thread starter mlan12
- Start date
whitetiger
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Equipment
Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
The BX1500 does not have a safety switch on the Forward-Reverse pedal, it does have 1 for the Hi-Lo range shifter, 1 each on the PTO levers, and 2 on the operator's seat.
Check the basics. Your symptoms are typical of poor connections or a failed battery. Could be something else, too, but start with the basics.
Check the battery cables and connections, both ends. This does not mean "glance at the top of the battery and if there's no obvious corrosion you are good". It means TAKE IT APART AND CLEAN IT. And do not overlook the ground connection to the frame, and the hot connection to the starter. People often make that mistake. "Battery's good, must be something else." Nope, BOTH ends need to be good.
And while you are at it, very carefully inspect the cables. Again, both ends. Corrosion can wick up inside a cable and rot it from the inside out. It's not readily visible from the outside. Look at the exposed end of the cable. Do you see corrosion there? If so, the cable may be bad. One way to find out is to get rough with the cable. Twist it, push it, bend it. If it feels at all "crackly", replace it. "Oh, but if I get rough with it, I might break it!" Good! If it's a good cable you won't bother it. If it's borderline, you want to break it.
If that's all good, get your battery load tested. A battery can show the correct voltage but not be able to support the load of a starting engine.
Check the battery cables and connections, both ends. This does not mean "glance at the top of the battery and if there's no obvious corrosion you are good". It means TAKE IT APART AND CLEAN IT. And do not overlook the ground connection to the frame, and the hot connection to the starter. People often make that mistake. "Battery's good, must be something else." Nope, BOTH ends need to be good.
And while you are at it, very carefully inspect the cables. Again, both ends. Corrosion can wick up inside a cable and rot it from the inside out. It's not readily visible from the outside. Look at the exposed end of the cable. Do you see corrosion there? If so, the cable may be bad. One way to find out is to get rough with the cable. Twist it, push it, bend it. If it feels at all "crackly", replace it. "Oh, but if I get rough with it, I might break it!" Good! If it's a good cable you won't bother it. If it's borderline, you want to break it.
If that's all good, get your battery load tested. A battery can show the correct voltage but not be able to support the load of a starting engine.
Checked battery with load tester and a battery analyzer and found the CCA was very low. Replaced battery.
It’s always important to come back to give the successful results and Close the thread…otherwise we don’t learn anything from it.
