Just took possession of a new-to-me L2350DT and have been getting to know it after years witn an older Yanmar 1702D.
Have run it a few times, and attached my brush cutter and done a little field maintenance. So far, so good until yesterday. I decided to put a "pigtail" onto the battery to allow plugging in a trickle charger in the winter. I removed the side and top panels around the engine, removed the battery cables, cleaned the clamps, attached the pigtail terminals to the clamp screws, put a little dielectric grease on, and snugged the nuts down tight.
But when I went to start it- no go. The fuel gauge and oil and charge lights went on, but when I went to preheat, just a click. And the fuel gauge and oil and charge lights did not light up subsequently when I turned the key to "on". A voltage check on the battery clamps showed 12.55v. (BTW the glow plug light on the instrument panel has never lit up but has always started OK.)
I checked the battery connections (and removed the pigtail) but same result. I eventually jump started it with my truck but it was very reluctant to start. Once running, I did some field work for about 45 mins, then turned it off, and put a battery charger on the 2A setting overnight. This morning- nada.
So I tried a known good battery from my Onan diesel genny, connected by jumper cables. Indicator lights went on but it barely turned over and would not start. The jumper cables, however, got quite hot! Unfortunately I don't have heavier cables and can't fit the bigger battery into the tractor to test it. But this suggests that the original battery might be at fault?
I read on another thread that the initial problem could be caused by a weak connection from the battery neg. to the frame. Removing the cables etc. did jiggle the battery around a little. But where is this ground-to-frame made? All I can see is a thin (16 or 18 ga.) wire connected to the neg. clamp that appears to go into the wiring for the headlights (?) I checked continuity from the neg. battery terminal to a passivated bolt that I think holds the loader to the frame and got a connection. .The wire on the neg. cable appears tight.
I suppose it could just be a dying battery (830 hrs. and the original battery) But given that it has started without a problem until I fiddled with the battery, I suspect something else is amiss.
Have run it a few times, and attached my brush cutter and done a little field maintenance. So far, so good until yesterday. I decided to put a "pigtail" onto the battery to allow plugging in a trickle charger in the winter. I removed the side and top panels around the engine, removed the battery cables, cleaned the clamps, attached the pigtail terminals to the clamp screws, put a little dielectric grease on, and snugged the nuts down tight.
But when I went to start it- no go. The fuel gauge and oil and charge lights went on, but when I went to preheat, just a click. And the fuel gauge and oil and charge lights did not light up subsequently when I turned the key to "on". A voltage check on the battery clamps showed 12.55v. (BTW the glow plug light on the instrument panel has never lit up but has always started OK.)
I checked the battery connections (and removed the pigtail) but same result. I eventually jump started it with my truck but it was very reluctant to start. Once running, I did some field work for about 45 mins, then turned it off, and put a battery charger on the 2A setting overnight. This morning- nada.
So I tried a known good battery from my Onan diesel genny, connected by jumper cables. Indicator lights went on but it barely turned over and would not start. The jumper cables, however, got quite hot! Unfortunately I don't have heavier cables and can't fit the bigger battery into the tractor to test it. But this suggests that the original battery might be at fault?
I read on another thread that the initial problem could be caused by a weak connection from the battery neg. to the frame. Removing the cables etc. did jiggle the battery around a little. But where is this ground-to-frame made? All I can see is a thin (16 or 18 ga.) wire connected to the neg. clamp that appears to go into the wiring for the headlights (?) I checked continuity from the neg. battery terminal to a passivated bolt that I think holds the loader to the frame and got a connection. .The wire on the neg. cable appears tight.
I suppose it could just be a dying battery (830 hrs. and the original battery) But given that it has started without a problem until I fiddled with the battery, I suspect something else is amiss.
