Stabilizer on my L4802

[Beerlord]

Hi gang! I've had my L4802 for 14 months and already have over 115 hours on it. That may not sound like alot but when you're cutting pasture a few days almost each week and lots of that in Mississippi heat, it's forever!
I think I have it running better than ever for my property which does have areas where it's bumpy so I adjust almost after every ride. One of the things I can't figure out is why it was delivered to me with the Joint pin on the left side in the first hole and the one on the right in the third hole (and I also realized I've been running it without the pin which either fell out or, they did not attach it before delivery last year).

Try as I might, I can't seem to get the stabilizer to move into position so that I can remove and place the Joint pin in the same spot on both sides. In reality, it's working fine so I tell myself to leave it alone but as I am a novice, I want to make sure I'm taking care of things and would like to figure out if this makes any difference at all.
My dealer has been helpful with questions in the past but this time, there has been no answer to 2 emails as I'm sure, this small dealer is busy this time of year. I'll likely have the blades sharpened in the off season and maybe a full inspection by them as well but wondered if anyone had any ideas if this pin placement is problematic.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Russell King]

I assume that you are using a rear mount shredder to cut the pastures.

The stabilizers should be somewhat equal or they will push the implement off to one side of the tractor. But you might want the implement offset at some times.

When using some implements you will want it fairly rigid to the tractor so both sides will be in the round holes. For a shredder most people will use the slotted holes to allow the implement to move around some. I am not sure how much the implements will move if both sides are in the shots but perhaps the dealer thought that was too much for delivery of the tractor so the put one side in a slot and one side in a round holes.

You should be able to move both sides when the pin is removed. Yours may be rusted together and will need some work to get it moving. Or the pin could have gotten sheared and is jamed between the parts, which is not very likely. Anyway you need to get it loosened up so that you can adjust it unless the shredder is all you will ever use. Then it could be left alone. But I would personally fix it regardless and put some grease on it.

The pin should be replaced with a new one from the dealer or from any tractor shop (but wouldn’t have the chain you show if from alternative shop)

 

[Beerlord]

I mostly use the Lands Pride brush hog for my pastures and it seems to not be swaying to any side though when going over bumpy areas of some pastures, I do need to level the brush hog.
The pins come out easily enough, I just can't move the right side but I have not tried anything like WD40 or any grease/lube to loosen it yet.

I appreciate your reply. The good news is that all seem to be working well.

 

[Russell King]

You should try a better rust penetrating oil than WD-40!

Try PB Blaster, 3 in 1, Kroil, Mouse Milk or something similar. I think you might be amazed by the difference in the results of these products over WD-40.

 

[old and tired]

...I just can't move the right side....

This might not be the case but the very first hole on the stabilizer looks to have some crap / dirt / twigs in there (and mud covering the outside of it). I would unbolt it and pull it apart to clean it up, then try lubing it a little.

For the most part, my left and right pin holes are rarely in the same location.

 

[Shawn T. W]

I'd spray it with something other than Water Displacer #40, leave the pins out take it for a ride down the drive ...

 

[JasonW]

This pins do not have to be in the same spot on each side. As long as your implement is centered you are good to go.

If they are hard to move, remove the implement and blow them out with compressed air while moving them.

I’ve had better luck leaving the stabilizers dry as any oil or grease will attract dirt then make them harder to adjust to line up.

 

[Beerlord]

This might not be the case but the very first hole on the stabilizer looks to have some crap / dirt / twigs in there (and mud covering the outside of it). I would unbolt it and pull it apart to clean it up, then try lubing it a little.

For the most part, my left and right pin holes are rarely in the same location.

That hole was cleaned out and was mostly dried grass.
I just got finished hitting 3 acres of both flat and bumpy terrain and it did very well since my last adjustment. I'm going to call things good but when I get the blades sharpened after the season, I'll bring these things up and see what the people who take my money say.

Much appreciation for the thoughts and ideas guys!

Cheers!

 

[hodge]

This pins do not have to be in the same spot on each side. As long as your implement is centered you are good to go.

If they are hard to move, remove the implement and blow them out with compressed air while moving them.

I’ve had better luck leaving the stabilizers dry as any oil or grease will attract dirt then make them harder to adjust to line up.

Correct- the pins do not have to be symmetrically placed. There are variations that may not enable that, and symmetry does not affect performance. As long as your implement is in the position that you want, pin the stabilizers and go for it.

 

[TGKY]

I have found that when mounting an implement I can get some variation in the sway arm holes by Adjusting the top link.
you can also lift the implement a little and put some side to side pressure on it to get some movement.
But as some have said as long as it’s in the position you want it and Botha sides are pinned it doesn’t have to be the same

 

[chim]

When mounting the RFM for example, the approach is similar to what TGKY describes. In a fairly level spot I lift it off the ground before dropping the pins in the bars. After eyeballing the mower to get it centered I drop a pin in one side. Then I push the mower toward the other side to get the slack out and drop the other pin. A little bit of side-to-side movement is OK, but to cut close to things it can't be free to the point of being sloppy.

 

[old and tired]

...Joint pin on the left side in the first hole and the one on the right in the third hole...

After re-reading your question (and reply to the above statement about "getting the slack out"). Are you asking about the use of slotted hole ("third hole")?

I personally, don't like the rear finishing mower to be hooked up so tight to the tractor. I want it to sway a little bit since I do lots of turns and spins (but not enough for the mower to contact the tire). And though it's not recommended, having the "joint pin" on only one side will work in both tension and compression.

 

[chim]

I don't pay attention to which holes the pins use. He mower is positioned eyeball centered behind the tractor. The goal is to limit the sway to a minimum. Not tight-tight, but i don't want it to swing 6" when I change direction and the wheels swivel.

 

[Survivor]

I don't see what is so great about the telescoping stabilizer bars with the pins.

The old style turnbuckles work fine and since they will always swing out towards the tires when you take the lower links off the pins on your implement, you don't always have to mess with them when changing.

I never tighten them more than hand tight when adjusting the new implement, and then tighten down the locking nut. A half inch slack or so is just about right as long as the implement is close to center between the tires.

 

[JasonW]

I don't see what is so great about the telescoping stabilizer bars with the pins.

The old style turnbuckles work fine and since they will always swing out towards the tires when you take the lower links off the pins on your implement, you don't always have to mess with them when changing.

I never tighten them more than hand tight when adjusting the new implement, and then tighten down the locking nut. A half inch slack or so is just about right as long as the implement is close to center between the tires.

Not all tractors have the stabilizers on the outside of the lift arms.
Your tractor must be brand new or you have never used the pin style. There is a reason they are standard on deluxe and larger models.

 

[Survivor]

Not all tractors have the stabilizers on the outside of the lift arms.
Your tractor must be brand new or you have never used the pin style. There is a reason they are standard on deluxe and larger models.

I used the pin style on a neighbor's tractor that I used to borrow (trade for usage). I think it was an L3240. I learned that you always need to just pull both pins when you start out because you're going to need to readjust both stabilizers at the end anyway. And to get the pins back in where you want them then you have physically swing the implement left or right to get the pin started.

With the turnbuckles you can at least have some cranking power to pull the heavy implement away from the opposite tire, and then tighten the slack on the opposite side. Either way it does help if the tractor is pointing slightly uphill so your implement tends to just self center.

I've also farmed just a little bit with 100hp + tractors that had the turnbuckles.