SSQA Linear Actuator

Donystoy

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LX2610HSDCC, B/H, Loader, plus numerous other attachments. B7200 sold
Dec 10, 2013
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Binbrook, Ontario
My main reason for adding the actuator is I use the grapple a lot. Sometime a branch releases a lever.
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This is the reason that I have not installed an actuator. Since I only have a bucket and a grapple I have to get off the tractor anyway to hook up or remove the hoses. I installed safety brackets on my levers to hold them in place. I also like to raise the loader after attaching anything to look and verify that the pins are fully in place.
 
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Hugo Habicht

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G1900
Jun 24, 2024
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In that video though, I do not see the actuator attached to anything.

It kind of “floats” in the middle, first unlocking the right side, then unlocking the left.

I have never played with one of those actuators before, but here is my initial thought.

If the actuator was “held in place”, would both sides operate at the same time?
The lever with the lowest force moves first. And no, you cannot fix the actuator because only the "loose" side would move then.

If you want simultaneous movement you could use two actuators with half the stroke length each and fix them in the middle of the loader. They have to be fixed on a pivot to allow a bit of angle movement.

I think the single actuator for both levers is a pretty nifty idea though. Does not really matter which lever moves first. Or do you move both levers simultaneously when you attach something by hand? ;)
 
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nbryan

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B2650 BH77 LA534 54" ssqa Forks B2782B BB1560 Woods M5-4 MaxxHaul 50039
Jan 3, 2019
1,377
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Hadashville, Manitoba, Canada
My main reason for adding the actuator is I use the grapple a lot. Sometime a branch releases a lever.
... I installed safety brackets on my levers to hold them in place. .
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This is my solution. Scrabbled for free from my varied and deep parts (junk pile(s).
I twisted the ssqa frame when a branch lifted a lever while backing up, and the forks frame caught a stump.
No more.
IMG_20201227_200612017.jpg


IMG_20201227_200432006.jpg
 
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Runs With Scissors

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L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
Jan 25, 2023
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Michigan
If its fast enough you will never notice the lack of synchronization


Dan
I like that Dan.

It’s fast and looks sturdy!

Now if I was thinking about doing that, 2 questions come to mind initially.

1. Is the "extended length" of that cylinder what stops the cylinder from damaging the levers? Or is there some sort of “over pressure” built into the circuit?

2. What type of control valve would you suggest to open and close it?
 

TheOldHokie

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L3901/LA525, G2160/RCK60, G2460/RCK60
Apr 6, 2021
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windyridgefarm.us
I like that Dan.

It’s fast and looks sturdy!

Now if I was thinking about doing that, 2 questions come to mind initially.

1. Is the "extended length" of that cylinder what stops the cylinder from damaging the levers? Or is there some sort of “over pressure” built into the circuit?

2. What type of control valve would you suggest to open and close it?
That kit fom 5Eleven Designz uses the same mechanical stop mechanism as the manual levers. The plate has two angled flats on the edge that contact the edge of the SSQA frame just like standard levers. You can see how that works in the video. Its a simple bolt on conversion and cheap to make but consider what happens if you loose hydraulics.

The Kubota design uses conventional levers that have an extended tab on the bottom end for attaching the (optional) cylinder. That retains the ability to operate the latches manually. Unfortunately Kubota wants $250 each for thier levers :devilish:

1000004626.jpg


I already looked at my LA525 and I think I would use the same design as the linear actuator used by the OP.

Alternatively one could make an extension arm that bolts on top of the levers using the existing mounts and duplicates the OEM design. I am sure my laser cutting shop could crank them out for ~15 a pop.

1000004628.jpg


An OTS hydraulic cylinder would run about $150.

You can use any third function valve and Kubota and 5Eleven both sell a 6 way electric diverter to "hardwire" the cylinder while retaining your normal third function operation. A manual diverter might be simpler and definitly cheaper

Dan
 
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nbryan

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B2650 BH77 LA534 54" ssqa Forks B2782B BB1560 Woods M5-4 MaxxHaul 50039
Jan 3, 2019
1,377
907
113
Hadashville, Manitoba, Canada
Here's my solution. Necessary tools minimal. Necessary labor minimal. Cost also minimal, Functions simple.

View attachment 169942
I actually tried that. One swamp-bush branch catching that and it was gone.
Really.
Don't depend on that piece of hooked rubber holding, one bit.
My bolted on steel angle iron laughs at the bushes. An it's easier to engage than frozen stiff rubber bungee cords fighting my old messed up rotator cuffs, that's for sure.
 

JasonW

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Jan 29, 2015
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Al
Pics would be great.

In that video though, I do not see the actuator attached to anything.

It kind of “floats” in the middle, first unlocking the right side, then unlocking the left.

I have never played with one of those actuators before, but here is my initial thought.

If the actuator was “held in place”, would both sides operate at the same time?

This would "in theory” eliminate the need to do one side before the other, and instead save time by doing them both at the same time.




BTW, just for the record, I also agree with the "use it or lose it” mentality regarding physical movment (to a degree)……However, the “tinkerer” in me wants to make one just for “sh1ts and giggles”.
Didn’t for get just got busy with a project. The way mine is mounted is covered in the first page.
Although I was releasing my bucket earlier to time it and it broke the mount. I used aluminum EMT and the bolt just pulled itself through it. Time for a redesign, might go with steel or a different type of mount.