Spray on bed liner

skeets

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Well I slipped for the last time on that darn rubber mat on the BX floor. And I was wondering if anybody ever used the spray cans of spray on bed liner. I want to do something cause most of the paint is worn off under the mat and when wet slicker than snot on a brass door knob. If not the bed liner spray what else would work,,, Im waitin boyz
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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There are a lot better options for a non slip floor covering for your tractor.

Chose your paint company, just about everyone makes one, it will be called Non skid or Non slip paint.

There is also a non skid tape that works great too.

With either of the two you will lose the sound and vibration dampening of the rubber floor mats.
Is it that your slipping on the mats or that the mats are slipping on the metal?
If your slipping on the mats then you could replace them or use a wire wheel cup brush and rough up the surface to help with resistance.

If it's the mats slipping on the metal, put down some traction tape on the metal and then put the mats over that. Should keep the mats from slipping.
 

hodge

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Don't use the bedliner coating that you apply yourself, whether it be from a can or brush on. The stuff looks good, but it isn't very tough (it scratches/gouges/tears easy), and it is very difficult to get a good adhesion. I've used it in many different forms, and have always been dissatisfied. If you want a good, non-slip, durable surface, the best thing is to take it to a shop who applies it professionally. They know how to prep, and the product is hands down much better.

I've done ATV racks, tools, trailer frames (some I painted, some I bedliner coated- the paint performed just as well), my truck bed- you'd think I'd learn, but I thought that maybe another brand would do better. They've all performed the same. Once I did my truck bed and got tired of touching up scratches and gouges from sliding most anything into the bed, I bought a bedliner to go in overtop of it. At least the bed is protected from rusting, but that's about it.
 
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trouble11

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Get a Quart of Kubota Orange and Mix a good amount of Sand in it, it will be non skid and You can replace it as needed.
Jeff
 

Paulemar

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This message reminded me that I read about the floor mat problem before. I wondered if anyone has used this stall mat from Tractor Supply to create a new one.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/sto...er-1-4-in-thick-sold-by-the-foot?cm_vc=-10005

I bought some of this in the 3/8" thick size to make a squeegee (double thickness) for my snow plow and it seems like if you used the original floor mat for a template it would make a great replacement mat. I think you could use some contact cement in select places to hold it in place.
 

helomech

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Don't use the bedliner coating that you apply yourself, whether it be from a can or brush on. The stuff looks good, but it isn't very tough (it scratches/gouges/tears easy), and it is very difficult to get a good adhesion. I've used it in many different forms, and have always been dissatisfied. If you want a good, non-slip, durable surface, the best thing is to take it to a shop who applies it professionally. They know how to prep, and the product is hands down much better.

I've done ATV racks, tools, trailer frames (some I painted, some I bedliner coated- the paint performed just as well), my truck bed- you'd think I'd learn, but I thought that maybe another brand would do better. They've all performed the same. Once I did my truck bed and got tired of touching up scratches and gouges from sliding most anything into the bed, I bought a bedliner to go in overtop of it. At least the bed is protected from rusting, but that's about it.
This, is true. The ones you apply yourself are not very good. Either paint it with sand in the paint, or bring it somewhere to have them do it.
 

BadDog

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With proper prep, I've had good (even great) luck out of the roll on liners (Herculiner, etc). My rock crawler buggy floors were coated with it. I've had several of my older trucks with floors (and lower doors) coated in it. My latest C10 (SWB, step side, 4 speed, diesel) "trash truck" (beater, whatever) has a great AZ (mostly) rust free body. But the PO had a jute backed rubber mat in in. The mat backing was FULL of mud and debris. Hosing it down had just washed the mud into the backing, and it had rusted the floor a bit, though no where near being holes. I took it out, wire wheeled it, ground it down a bit in the worst spots, and coated it with a Phosphoric Acid "rust kill" mix. After that dried, I wire wheeled it again to give it more bite, and then rolled on the bed liner to replace the floor mat. Now I can hose it out any time, and it all comes clean with no risk of further damage. That's been 4 years ago I think, still fine. I would not hesitate at all to use it on tractor foot plates or the like. Great grip and holds up well if you prep well. Just don't get it on any fasteners, or into seams that need to be taken apart at some point in the future.
 

BadDog

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They've all performed the same. Once I did my truck bed and got tired of touching up scratches and gouges from sliding most anything into the bed, I bought a bedliner to go in overtop of it. At least the bed is protected from rusting, but that's about it.
Don't bet on it. The worst beds I've seen, including here in AZ, were the ones with drop-ins installed for a while. They eat through the paint, it rusts, they scrape it away, and it rusts more. I wouldn't suggest a drop-in to a person unless I disliked them intensely.

But I don't really disagree with the lack of durability for the roll-ons either. For a real working bed, I would recommend them either. Anything of substance will peel it right up. But for your typical "worst thing I haul is some boxes and furniture" city slicker truck, it should be fine. Where I use it is for mostly foot traffic type applications.

Professional spray in has been a whole different thing. My '02 2500HD was spray lined with Linex 2 days after I bought it. Since then it's hauled 1 ton axles, transmissions, motors, frame sections and scrap, and heavy machine tools weighing over 1000 lbs. It still looks like it did the day I bought it. The 30k Reese rail set is a very different matter and shows the use, but not the liner. My truck "works", it's not a "statement" or "compensator", but most people wouldn't know it by looking at it.

And another thing, even though black, it doesn't get hot in the sun. The white painted body steel gets hotter than the black liner. If I ever have to buy another (no plans anytime soon unless it gets totaled), I'll do the same again without hesitation.
 

hodge

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"Don't bet on it. The worst beds I've seen, including here in AZ, were the ones with drop-ins installed for a while. They eat through the paint, it rusts, they scrape it away, and it rusts more. I wouldn't suggest a drop-in to a person unless I disliked them intensely."

That's not a problem, and it is how I preferred to do it. The truck originally had a plastic bedliner for close to 200,000 miles, and it (the liner) was torn up. I found sand and mulch packed into corners between the liner and the bed, but not a spot of rust. Now, it has roll on liner with a plastic liner on top. The roll on liner, while not very durable, is a good moisture barrier.
 

BadDog

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Sorry, I didn't mean to come off as rude.

I've just seen a number beds that I considered ruined by those drop-ins. One example is a little Ranger I had for a while that came with a factory liner. Looked pretty good but the liner was bowing (sun?) and looked bad. When I took it out you could see major rust damage in many places (dozens to be very conservative) where the liner had chafed away the paint.

I hope yours works well for you, but for me, they are not even an option to consider. Well, maybe if I had a beat bed that was all beat up dented and rusty to start with that I just wanted to make look better economically? ;) Then again, my experience with the spray and roll on liners seems diametrically opposed to others posting, so who knows why such a different range of experiences. <shrug>
 

hodge

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Sorry, I didn't mean to come off as rude.

I've just seen a number beds that I considered ruined by those drop-ins. One example is a little Ranger I had for a while that came with a factory liner. Looked pretty good but the liner was bowing (sun?) and looked bad. When I took it out you could see major rust damage in many places (dozens to be very conservative) where the liner had chafed away the paint.

I hope yours works well for you, but for me, they are not even an option to consider. Well, maybe if I had a beat bed that was all beat up dented and rusty to start with that I just wanted to make look better economically? ;) Then again, my experience with the spray and roll on liners seems diametrically opposed to others posting, so who knows why such a different range of experiences. <shrug>
I've seen the rust, also. But, obviously, it doesn't happen all the time. When I pulled the liner out of my truck shortly after buying it, and found the mulch and sand, I expected holes there. Nothing but solid metal and white paint.
I tried to utilize the roll on liner, but everytime I put something in the bed, I would have to touch up where liner came off. The adhesion was good, it was just soft and would gouge very easy. Nothing like the polyurethane based liner like Line-X or Rhinoliner.
Because I had already done the bed in roll on liner, I had few options. The slide in liner has worked well protecting the bed while the roll on liner has proven to be an effective barrier. I have had this setup for almost 3 years. Last year I installed a gooseneck hitch, so I had the liner out- nothing had changed to the bed. No rust, no degradation. So, it's working for me.
I do agree, though- generally, the slide in liner can cause problems. My dad has one in an 04 Ranger, and it has done well, though. Perhaps the difference is that both trucks stay under roof when not being driven, so the moisture is limited.

Back to Skeets, it's better to know going into something, than to find out after the fact. An ounce of prevention.
 
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