Splitting the L3130 - Repair thread

[Dave_eng]

This marked up photo may help ensure you understand the pivoting or flopping problem other forum members are trying to caution you about.
The red arrows are to show that the axle can move either up or down and the tractor derives no rolling over stability from the front axle until the point where it is almost too late.
The yellow lines are to show where you need to use wood to wedge the upper part of the front of the tractor to the front axle thus preventing it from rolling towards either side.

Dave M7040

 

[5thhorseman]

Got it! Thanks Dave and Wolfman!

 

[lugbolt]

If you have a loader on it, you can use jack stands under the loader frames to stop the flop. I will use the stands to hold the front half of the tractor up when I'm splitting one, that is, if I can. Some of them the loader frames have to come off

 

[27acres]

If you have a loader on it, you can use jack stands under the loader frames to stop the flop. I will use the stands to hold the front half of the tractor up when I'm splitting one, that is, if I can. Some of them the loader frames have to come off

I had a friend provide me some angle iron supports with some skids on the bottoms. I attached to the loader sub-frame arms and they worked AWESOME.

However, I bough the gaskets and seals for the "main engine seal" but see that the sub-frame attaches to that section I would have to remove. I am not fining ANY docs showing this procedure either.

I am wondering if the sub-frame attachments to the back side section could be removed and the front 5-6 bolts could hold the weight IF I find the info to swap that part.

Is replacing a good main engine seal worth it if it's not leaking on a 10 year old tractor with 360 hours? This was recommended since i am already split...

 

[lugbolt]

Not really. Kubota isn't known for rear main seal leaks. Only ones I ever seen were on the ZD326 and ZD331, neither of which are we discussing here. Been into a lot of 3130's and other grand L's but never had a rear crank seal leak, never. Bout everything else leaked inside the bellhousing but never a crank seal. If it ain't broke, don't mess with it especially knowing that they aren't really a problem area.

 

[27acres]

Not really. Kubota isn't known for rear main seal leaks. Only ones I ever seen were on the ZD326 and ZD331, neither of which are we discussing here. Been into a lot of 3130's and other grand L's but never had a rear crank seal leak, never. Bout everything else leaked inside the bellhousing but never a crank seal. If it ain't broke, don't mess with it especially knowing that they aren't really a problem area.

Thanks! Skipping that one and saving the $68 for the parts.

 

[27acres]

Re: Splitting the L3130 - Repair thread (New Clutch Tight??)

OK, so it took me quite a while with my work schedule - I commute 2 hours each was 3 times a week - but the tractor has been split, clutch replaced.

Something seems "off" though on the clutch. It's brand new, and in theory, I should have something like .9" of "free-play". However, it will NOT go into gear until you take the adjustment up so far that I have to use something to leverage up the clutch lever so I can set the pin. At that point there is NO (0) "free-play" but it works.

I drove the tractor over to a neighbors house, a farmer with a few tractors and he put it where he expected it to work and - nothing, would not go into gear. We walked it up a half turn at a time until it would go into gear.

I worked a while with it today like this. It works, changes gears, no sounds, no smells, no grinding, etc.

Thoughts??

 

[27acres]

OK, I get it, so the trouble here is that if there is NO free play the release bearing is ALWAYS spinning. This will fail eventually.

At this moment, I am wondering if the aftermarket pressure plate, although purchased from the Kubota dealer, was a bad idea.

Since you can't actually change the range of travel on the clutch, I may modify something...For whatever reason, when I originally got the tractor it had been set without free-play.

I am thinking on drilling a hole in the clutch lever lower on the axis. This would be simple, and would increase the range of travel. While the clutch might be a touch harder, I might be able to allow for free play yet keep the clutch adjustable. The part is quite sturdy and I could work this out with minimal effort. I will simply use a small clamp to test the theory first.

 

[27acres]

My brother-in-law is a heavy equipment mechanic and he seems to think that one or both of the clips came out and are lodged in there causing the throwout bearing to not seat straight. Thus, the reason the additional pressure is causing it to work is that the additional pressure is lining things up.

The other possibly could be that the clutch was put in backwards. The shorter end was supposed to be towards the flywheel and I am nearly positive this was the case. i wish I'd taken "After" pictures rather then only before dis assembly pictures.

My decision for now is to run it until the throwout bearing dies and then split it again. it's possible the clips will move out of the way, or fall out and allow things to start functioning normally.

This is a big disappointment after months of working on this, essentially learning how to work on a tractor as I went with what little time I had. However, at this point, minus the part of asking neighbors to help me move the chassis on and off, I could do this blindfolded. I know exactly what part may have caused the issue.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

OK, I get it, so the trouble here is that if there is NO free play the release bearing is ALWAYS spinning. This will fail eventually.

At this moment, I am wondering if the aftermarket pressure plate, although purchased from the Kubota dealer, was a bad idea.

Since you can't actually change the range of travel on the clutch, I may modify something...For whatever reason, when I originally got the tractor it had been set without free-play.

I am thinking on drilling a hole in the clutch lever lower on the axis. This would be simple, and would increase the range of travel. While the clutch might be a touch harder, I might be able to allow for free play yet keep the clutch adjustable. The part is quite sturdy and I could work this out with minimal effort. I will simply use a small clamp to test the theory first.

Kubota Dealers, as far as I know, do not sell aftermarket parts.
Did you compare the original parts to the replacement parts?
They should look exactly the same except wear on the disk.
Do you have the part #'s that they sold you?

You shouldn't have to alter anything to make it work, if it doesn't work now then something is installed wrong.

My decision for now is to run it until the throwout bearing dies and then split it again. it's possible the clips will move out of the way, or fall out and allow things to start functioning normally.

This is not a wise or safe decision!

You are just asking for the possibility of major damage and costs to happen!
It will not " fix itself and start function normally!
It could even cost you a ton more, driving along and it fails you push in the clutch and low and behold, Nada, you keep on trucking, you run over your kids bike, your truck, the propane fuel tank and finally roll the tractor in total Hollywood style with explosions and flames!

Fix it now not later!