Hello , I have a L2501 that the cable broke. While snow blowing I caught a tarp hidden in snow and it caused the shear pin to break which I think cause the tach cable to break , but would like to know if anyone ever tried to just replace the inner cable with out removing the outer sleeve . I have a cab on my Kubota and would be a big job to get at the display to unscrew the cable . Also does anyone have a good part number , I see several different numbers online .
speedometer cable
- Thread starter up north
- Start date
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
Not sure if the inner cable comes out or not.
Just unscrew the engine side and try to pull it out.
I'm not seeing how the tarp would have affected it adversely, but who knows.
The factory puts what I consider an "unnecessarily sharp bend" in the cable by 'zip tying' it to a bracket.
I cut that zip tie in the hope of extending the life of my replacement.
Just unscrew the engine side and try to pull it out.
I'm not seeing how the tarp would have affected it adversely, but who knows.
The factory puts what I consider an "unnecessarily sharp bend" in the cable by 'zip tying' it to a bracket.
I cut that zip tie in the hope of extending the life of my replacement.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
curious, saw this... looks like you 'should ' be able to access dash end from below ? Maybe smaller hands(grand kid ??)..
The 'core' may just slide out from one end( engine end ?? )
Also... be sure to get squared ends in properly !!
The 'core' may just slide out from one end( engine end ?? )
Also... be sure to get squared ends in properly !!
Attachments
Thanks for suggestions , I think what happen is the tarp was wrapping around the auger shaft and slowing down the PTO and when the shear pin let go PTO RPMs would rapidly increase putting torque on speedometer cable . That's what I sticking with as I feel dump enough catching the tarp , as I put it there.
Would anyone have a proper part number for the cable.
Runs With Scissors
Well-known member
Equipment
L2501 TLB , Grappel, Brush Hog, Box Blade, Ballast box, Forks, Tiller, PH digger
That's a decent theory too.
Just for reference, if you do unscrew the engine side, the break that I am referring to happened in the first 2'ish inchs of the the cable.
It would be interesting to see where yours broke.
I'm sure I took a pic, but I'll be damned if I can find it.....My phone is more cluttered than my shop!!!!
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Your theory that the RPM's jumped and broke the cable are, well not very plausible.
Pull the engine side of the cable and spin the cable with a drill, does it spin the tach up, if it does then start the tractor and look at the drive output is it spinning?
Stop the engine and take a small screw driver and try and turn the drive does it turn?
Tach cable:
TC415-34653
Pull the engine side of the cable and spin the cable with a drill, does it spin the tach up, if it does then start the tractor and look at the drive output is it spinning?
Stop the engine and take a small screw driver and try and turn the drive does it turn?
Tach cable:
TC415-34653
Last edited:
I can't help you at all, other than give you an attaboy, for finding a new designation for a tachometer drive cable.
While you did not exactly list it correctly in your thread title, Engine Speedometer Cable sure does make sense for people like me I am sure...
While you did not exactly list it correctly in your thread title, Engine Speedometer Cable sure does make sense for people like me I am sure...
You can remove the inner cable from the sheath. The problem would be getting the other half out if you didn't unscrew the other end.
When I removed mine, it was not very well lubricated from the supplier. There was rust on it. I made sure to lube the snot out of it before installation.
When I removed mine, it was not very well lubricated from the supplier. There was rust on it. I made sure to lube the snot out of it before installation.
well that's the only thing I can see happening as the tach was working fine up to the point of the shear pin breaking . I removed the engine side of cable and it it is broke approximately, 3 inches back in sleeve . Now can I just replace the cable core and use heavy heat shrink the outer sleeve back together till it gets warmer to work on . I know it's a( red green ) Canadian comedy show . Repair but it's only temporary.
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
You didn't say the outer jacket is broken, that leads me to believe the tarp spun around on the Mid PTO shaft and struck the cable braking it.
I wouldn't do any cobble job repair, either do it all or do nothing.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Better than heatshrink, use 1ft of fuel line whose ID is just a bit bigger than the OD of the jacket.
I didn't think the part was that bad a price($50 ??) and you'll probably have to go under the dash anyway to confirm core IS in the tach head.
I didn't think the part was that bad a price($50 ??) and you'll probably have to go under the dash anyway to confirm core IS in the tach head.
Good suggestion , you're right the cable is only $49.00 . I am just trying to repair it till the weather warms up . I have a homemade cab and a few bolts to remove to get the dash cowling moved forward .
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
There in no (easy) way to line the outer sheath well enough that you would not just destroy the inner portion again in a very short time.
can you explain why you believe the inner cable would be destroyed . If the outer cable sleeve is lined up and has no movement and if the outer cable is filed to taper so there is no burs from metal reinforced spiral. also it is a temporary fix till the weather warms up.
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
You snapped the cable for no super obvious reason and your expecting a barnyard fix to hold up?
Now when it fails and whips around and destroys wiring, fuel lines, starts a fire and burns it to the ground... Yes obvious exaggeration... are you going to blame the tractor?
Your getting good advice, you choose your path.
Is having a RPM gauge really that critical to your tractor operations?
You can't over rev that tractor.
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
one trick is to tape the new cable onto the old one, then pull old out and new one is installed..
agree having a tach is not needed d for 99.44% operations
agree having a tach is not needed d for 99.44% operations
North Idaho Wolfman
Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
That's going to be a really cool trick...
Oh wait...
If he can get to both ends of the cable why doesn't he just replace the whole cable!
I've said it before. I'll say it again. The next time mine goes ill just install an electronic tach/ hour meter. I only really care about hours.
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Sure can.
The outer housing is usually a helix wrapped wire. Usually that is square wire butted side to side and sized to fit the diameter of the inner cable fairly closely.
Once it is bent or broken, the sharp edge of the broken wire will rub the inner cable, cutting it completely or damaging it. Then the stresses and alternating stresses will fatigue it every rotation until it fails.
I don’t think that a human being has the skills and dexterity to align the ends of the sheath to get it very close to aligned, and to eliminate the sharp edges of the broken sheath.
Now if you have the skills of a watchmaker or jeweler then you might be able to pull it off with enough patience.
And the cost of a new cable is not too great to justify the time and risk.