Some help from some WOOD WORKERS

[skeets]

I'm hopping you can help me. My saw sits in an unheated shop with out much
ventilation, and the cast iron table and wings are getting RUSTY,, just a
light coat but I know everything I wipe it off there some iron coming with
it. So what I want to find out is what's the best way of keeping it from
rusting up???? This maybe a tempest in a tea cup so to speak but this is
buggin the hell out of me.

 

[asbug]

Casey's makes a gun lube that I used on all the machined cast iron bits on my wood working equipment.It was a spray on. I would just spray it down and then wipe it off when I was going to use it next.
This was in Florida and humidity and heat were big problems.
Worked great for me.
KC

 

[Dennis T.]

we monsieur "une tempete dans une verra d'eau",.... that and just add some elbow grease.

 

[skeets]

Je veux le faire la manière facile,, ok so Im lazy,, and I got some friends inthe GWN too,,,lol

 

[asbug]

Pourquoi faisent-nous cette discussion en franciais?
: )
I used the white spray bottle of this stuff, lasted a long time!

http://sport.birchwoodcasey.com/Mai...roductID=026efcbf-5a56-4037-a9c5-621cf7a4425b


KC

 

[Eric McCarthy]

WD-40 is cheap and works just as good. After all they call its Water Displacement-40 for a reason!

 

[skeets]

I guess because I don't speak it none to good,, just some thing I picked up mostly alllll bad,,,

 

[skeets]

Im thinking that WD40 would leave a film on the iron the might transfer to the wood,, and I don't know if it would sand out if it did,, A good thought though

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Are you cutting picture perfect wood for furniture or cabinet making or just rough cut lumber for general purposes? As cheap as WD-40 is try it out and then cut a scrap piece of wood and see what it does.

If its a saw you're not using often and go for quite sometime without using I'd defiantly used the less expensive WD-40. The high priced lubes will burn off every time you run the saw so you're burning up alot of money on expensive lube.

 

[hodge]

Im thinking that WD40 would leave a film on the iron the might transfer to the wood,, and I don't know if it would sand out if it did,, A good thought though

It probably wouldn't sand out. An oil like that will absorb in deep, and affect how it takes stain or poly. Most people don't realize it, but wood flooring manufacturers advise against using things like Murphy's on wood, because it will affect future refinishing.

 

[hodge]

WD-40 is cheap and works just as good. After all they call its Water Displacement-40 for a reason!

I think it is called that because it displaces water on electrical components.

 

[BadAxeB]

Don't use use WD40 or anything oil based! Just clean it off with steel wool or 3m pads and WAX it - any good paste wax will keep it like new for years

 

[E/S]

X 2 on wax only.



E/S

 

[Eric McCarthy]

I think it is called that because it displaces water on electrical components.

Electrical components for one and thousands of other applications. A film of WD-40 on any surface will repel water. Literally 1001 uses for it on their website.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

I stand corrected. According to WD's website now over 2000+ uses for their product!

Fresh from WD-40 website!

What surfaces or materials are OK to use WD-40 Multi-Use Product on?

WD-40 Multi-Use Product can be used on just about everything. It is safe to use on metal, rubber, wood and plastic. It can also be applied to painted metal surfaces without harming the paint. Polycarbonate and clear polystyrene plastic are among the few surfaces on which to avoid using a petroleum-based product like WD-40 Multi-Use Product.

 

[cdrill]

Best thing I found was Johnsons Paste Wax, and a box fan running constantly in my shop. Without air moving around I would have to clean my tables on all my machines a couple times a week no matter what I used, and I tried every miracle potion I could find. After putting the fan in the shop I only have to wax tables when material drags or some clown puts a cold drink on the cast iron. Oh be sure to use a wax that doesn't contain silicone or stains and finishes will bead up like water on afresh waxed car.

 

[Jim-Iowa]

Best thing I found was Johnsons Paste Wax, and a box fan running constantly in my shop. Without air moving around I would have to clean my tables on all my machines a couple times a week no matter what I used, and I tried every miracle potion I could find. After putting the fan in the shop I only have to wax tables when material drags or some clown puts a cold drink on the cast iron. Oh be sure to use a wax that doesn't contain silicone or stains and finishes will bead up like water on afresh waxed car.

I'll second that! A tub of Johnsons paste wax is just a couple dollars and will last forever. The problem with WD 40 is it has some silicone in it and you will play heck getting a finish on anything that has gotten silicone on it or into the pores.

 

[arktraveler]

Best thing I found was Johnsons Paste Wax, and a box fan running constantly in my shop. Without air moving around I would have to clean my tables on all my machines a couple times a week no matter what I used, and I tried every miracle potion I could find. After putting the fan in the shop I only have to wax tables when material drags or some clown puts a cold drink on the cast iron. Oh be sure to use a wax that doesn't contain silicone or stains and finishes will bead up like water on afresh waxed car.

I have been a woodworker since 1961 (a Kubota owner since 1980), and I have never found a product that is any more effective than Johnson's Paste Floor Wax for iron and steel items in the shop. The fan stirring the air is a good idea too!

Arktraveler

 

[lreops]

Not mentioned, but a Dehumidifier can do wonders also.

As mentioned, paste wax is a must.

Ron

 

[bosshogg]

Johnson's paste wax...prevents rusts and allows wood to glide along the surface. Sorry if it was already mentioned...didn't read all posts.

Oops...appears I wasn't the only one.