Snowplowing without damaging gravel driveway

BD6713

New member

Equipment
LX2610
Feb 14, 2022
1
3
3
Southeast Michigan
I always enjoy this forum and have learned a lot from experienced tractor users here. I hope my first posting attempt is enjoyable and could possibly help somebody.


I have a 1/2 mile gravel driveway to plow during winter and had hard time using a FEL mounted snowplow (Kubota B2672 front blade) initially on BX23S and currently on LX2610. Especially when the ground is not completely frozen, the snowplow keeps digging into the gravel and creates a huge mess. Skid shoes didn’t really help and a technique of raising the loader a bit from the ground was not suitable to my situation since I wanted to plow with FEL in float mode to follow the undulation of the ground. I knew frame mounted snowplows work better than the FEL mounted ones due to less down pressure but didn't want to buy a quick hitch just for a snowplow.


With that been said, below is my several years of try and error history. The best one (in my opinion) is the option "E" explained at the bottom, so please feel free to skip other options if you are not interested.


A. Rubber cutting edge
Replace factory steel cutting edge with an optional rubber one.

Pros
- None (from a gravel protection perspective).

Cons
- Digs into the gravel just like a steel cutting edge.


B. Rubber stall mat ver.1
Couldn’t find the original post but I learned from this forum. Cut a 3/4-in rubber horse stall mat to the width of the moldboard. Drill holes on the mat and set between the cutting edge and moldboard. Keep the other side free. Drag the mat and let the blade (and skid shoes) ride on top of the mat.

*I recommend using a utility knife to cut the rubber. Place something underneath the mat and cut it while the mat is in a convex shape to prevent the rubber from grabbing the knife. I found this method is faster than power tools and cuts very clean.

Pros
- Snowplow leaves a thin layer of snow.
- Makes much less damage to the gravel.
- As long as you use it on snow, the stall mat wears very little. Should last several seasons.

Cons
- Tractor needs to be in forward motion when lowering the snowplow.
- Lose an ability to back drag.


C. Rubber stall mat ver.2
Add chain / cable to the free side of the stall mat to keep it from hanging down when snowplow is raised on the air.
Rubber stall mat ver.2.jpg
Rubber stall mat ver.2 - side view.jpg


Pros
- The same as ver.1.
- Can lower the plow while the tractor is stopped or moving reverse.
- Can back drag.

Cons
- None from functional stand point, but it looks too many components.


D. Rubber stall mat ver.3
Use the stall mat in “U” shape as shown in the picture.
Rubber stall mat ver.3.jpg


Rubber stall mat ver.3 - side view.jpg


*It is very hard to bend the thick & hard rubber mat like this. A couple of ratchet straps and long bolts would help.

Pros
- The same as ver.2.
- The least aggressive to the gravel in all the mods I listed here.
- For me, it looks simple and clean comparing to ver.1 & 2.

Cons
- The small bend radius applies huge stress to the stall mat. I had no problem using it for a whole winter but rubber tore by the fatigue during summer storage.

*Recommend to remove the weight of the snowplow from the stall mat or remove the mat from the blade before long-term storage.


E. Steel Angle

After 4 winters of try and error, I got this idea. Cut 1/2-in steel angle to the width of the moldboard (I ordered a pre-cut angle from an online steel store). Drill holes on the steel angle and attach it on the blade as a cutting edge.

*Not really necessary but I attached a 3/4-in stall mat on the ground contacting surface of the steel angle to make the snowplow even gentler to the gravel. Additionally, the stall mat leaves nice patterns on snow, and prevents damage to concrete pad / asphalt pavement.

**In the picture, a rubber cutting edge is also installed but it doesn’t touch the ground when plowing forward. Tilt the plow forward and use it for back dragging.

Steel Angle.jpg


Steel Angle - side view.jpg


Pros
- Snowplow leaves a thin layer of snow.
- Makes much less damage to the gravel.
- The most durable.
- To me, the best appearance.

Cons
- Heavy. If the snowplow itself is already too heavy for the FEL, use 3/8-in steel angle instead of 1/2-in.
- Angle steel cutting edge may apply additional stress to the moldboard due to the increased leverage (My Kubota 1/4-in steel moldboard shows no issues so far though).

Steel Angle - test.jpg


Thank you very much for reading.
 
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Reactions: 2 users

D2Cat

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L305DT, B7100HST, TG1860, TG1860D, L4240
Mar 27, 2014
13,885
5,689
113
40 miles south of Kansas City
Nice review of all your methods. In your "E" method with the 1/2" angle and you suggested 3/8" if too heavy. If you plow moldboard is 1/4" and you're bolting the additional angle to it, why would that angle need to be any larger then 1/4", to lighten even more? You would now have 1/2" of steel where the original was half of that.

Thanks for the detail pictures! I have a spare 8' Hiniker plow I used on a pickup that I've replaced. A summer project will be to modify that to a quick attach and use on my L4240. I will remove the elec/hyd pump and framework not needed and use the angle cylinders with the existing front hydraulics.

Your last picture gives me a good idea of how/what to do. Thanks.
 

JimmyJazz

Well-known member

Equipment
B2601
Aug 8, 2020
1,224
742
113
Pittsburgh, Pa
I have used my B2601 loader for snow removal for the first time here this winter and have found keeping the edge of the bucket tilted up a bit does the trick. Works great. Provides a "good enough" result.
 

notforhire

Active member

Equipment
Kubota L47
Dec 5, 2019
123
55
28
Meadows of Dan VA.
Interesting post.
My best results have been with a blade that is hinged and hung by a chain. This allows the blade to follow the ground contour. The skid shoes can (better) control the blade because they don't have to hold up the blade plus the loader arms, etc. like they do when you use float.
Unfortunately manufacturers make mostly rigid mounted blades. These work better on asphalt than they do on gravel.

I have used both rigid mounted and floating blades on Bobcats, tractors and TLBs and IMO the floating blades always worked better.
How many truck plows have you seen that are rigid mount and not lifted by a chain?
 

ctfjr

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3800HST
Dec 7, 2009
1,900
2,329
113
central ct
Before my blower arrived I had the same issues with my rear blade and snow. The best solution I found (until the ground froze up) was to simply reverse it.
 
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Reactions: 1 user

lerxstland

Member

Equipment
MX5400 , New Holland 4630, LP BoxBlade, land plane, Grapple, rake, rear blade,
Mar 7, 2016
20
37
13
McHenry, MD
I always enjoy this forum and have learned a lot from experienced tractor users here. I hope my first posting attempt is enjoyable and could possibly help somebody.


I have a 1/2 mile gravel driveway to plow during winter and had hard time using a FEL mounted snowplow (Kubota B2672 front blade) initially on BX23S and currently on LX2610. Especially when the ground is not completely frozen, the snowplow keeps digging into the gravel and creates a huge mess. Skid shoes didn’t really help and a technique of raising the loader a bit from the ground was not suitable to my situation since I wanted to plow with FEL in float mode to follow the undulation of the ground. I knew frame mounted snowplows work better than the FEL mounted ones due to less down pressure but didn't want to buy a quick hitch just for a snowplow.


With that been said, below is my several years of try and error history. The best one (in my opinion) is the option "E" explained at the bottom, so please feel free to skip other options if you are not interested.


A. Rubber cutting edge
Replace factory steel cutting edge with an optional rubber one.

Pros
- None (from a gravel protection perspective).

Cons
- Digs into the gravel just like a steel cutting edge.


B. Rubber stall mat ver.1
Couldn’t find the original post but I learned from this forum. Cut a 3/4-in rubber horse stall mat to the width of the moldboard. Drill holes on the mat and set between the cutting edge and moldboard. Keep the other side free. Drag the mat and let the blade (and skid shoes) ride on top of the mat.

*I recommend using a utility knife to cut the rubber. Place something underneath the mat and cut it while the mat is in a convex shape to prevent the rubber from grabbing the knife. I found this method is faster than power tools and cuts very clean.

Pros
- Snowplow leaves a thin layer of snow.
- Makes much less damage to the gravel.
- As long as you use it on snow, the stall mat wears very little. Should last several seasons.

Cons
- Tractor needs to be in forward motion when lowering the snowplow.
- Lose an ability to back drag.


C. Rubber stall mat ver.2
Add chain / cable to the free side of the stall mat to keep it from hanging down when snowplow is raised on the air.
View attachment 75010 View attachment 75011

Pros
- The same as ver.1.
- Can lower the plow while the tractor is stopped or moving reverse.
- Can back drag.

Cons
- None from functional stand point, but it looks too many components.


D. Rubber stall mat ver.3
Use the stall mat in “U” shape as shown in the picture.
View attachment 75012

View attachment 75013

*It is very hard to bend the thick & hard rubber mat like this. A couple of ratchet straps and long bolts would help.

Pros
- The same as ver.2.
- The least aggressive to the gravel in all the mods I listed here.
- For me, it looks simple and clean comparing to ver.1 & 2.

Cons
- The small bend radius applies huge stress to the stall mat. I had no problem using it for a whole winter but rubber tore by the fatigue during summer storage.

*Recommend to remove the weight of the snowplow from the stall mat or remove the mat from the blade before long-term storage.


E. Steel Angle

After 4 winters of try and error, I got this idea. Cut 1/2-in steel angle to the width of the moldboard (I ordered a pre-cut angle from an online steel store). Drill holes on the steel angle and attach it on the blade as a cutting edge.

*Not really necessary but I attached a 3/4-in stall mat on the ground contacting surface of the steel angle to make the snowplow even gentler to the gravel. Additionally, the stall mat leaves nice patterns on snow, and prevents damage to concrete pad / asphalt pavement.

**In the picture, a rubber cutting edge is also installed but it doesn’t touch the ground when plowing forward. Tilt the plow forward and use it for back dragging.

View attachment 75014

View attachment 75015

Pros
- Snowplow leaves a thin layer of snow.
- Makes much less damage to the gravel.
- The most durable.
- To me, the best appearance.

Cons
- Heavy. If the snowplow itself is already too heavy for the FEL, use 3/8-in steel angle instead of 1/2-in.
- Angle steel cutting edge may apply additional stress to the moldboard due to the increased leverage (My Kubota 1/4-in steel moldboard shows no issues so far though).

View attachment 75016

Thank you very much for reading.
Before my blower arrived I had the same issues with my rear blade and snow. The best solution I found (until the ground froze up) was to simply reverse it.
This is great stuff.. thank you for posting.