Snowblower help

[Snowman7]

Tough to tell with the wind but I bet we got 30”

 

[nbryan]

The reduction gear drive chain, that gets chain oiled, will get quite loud if under or over tightened. Too tight makes even more noise than too loose. I did a chain tension adjust a couple years ago on my B2782B blower and found I overtightened the chain a bit and it rattled something aweful under load. The overtightening happened because the chain tension changes depending on where in its revolution cycle iy is when you check the tension. I had set it correctly but it tightened taught if I rotated the shaft a bit, indicating the chain drive sprokets are not perfectly "round" to each other and the chain tension varies slightly as they rotate relative to each other, taking up the free play I had adjusted for. NOISY.
So re-did the chain tension adjustment and made sure it has that 1/16" play ALL THROUGH several manual rotation cycles even though it's got more play in most positions. MUCH QUIETER.

 

[Snowman7]

The reduction gear drive chain, that gets chain oiled, will get quite loud if under or over tightened. Too tight makes even more noise than too loose. I did a chain tension adjust a couple years ago on my B2782B blower and found I overtightened the chain a bit and it rattled something aweful under load. The overtightening happened because the chain tension changes depending on where in its revolution cycle iy is when you check the tension. I had set it correctly but it tightened taught if I rotated the shaft a bit, indicating the chain drive sprokets are not perfectly "round" to each other and the chain tension varies slightly as they rotate relative to each other, taking up the free play I had adjusted for. NOISY.
So re-did the chain tension adjustment and made sure it has that 1/16" play ALL THROUGH several manual rotation cycles even though it's got more play in most positions. MUCH QUIETER.

Merry Christmas Everyone. The 3310 is in the 50 degree garage thawing a little so I can get to the chain. Thank you everyone for the input. This forum is such a joy to be a part of. I will report back in a few hours.

 

[nbryan]

Merry Christmas Everyone. The 3310 is in the 50 degree garage thawing a little so I can get to the chain. Thank you everyone for the input. This forum is such a joy to be a part of. I will report back in a few hours.

While you're in there check ALL the hex set screws on the blower input shaft. They keep the pto female ujoint, sprokets and bearings tight to the 2500rpm shaft, where the hex set screws pin the 1/4x1/4" keys and where there's a second key, to lock to the shaft directly too.
My B2782B got noisy this fall so I checked for playon theat shaft and the small drive sprocket inside gearbox case was loose and allowing rotational free play because the set screws had worked themselves loose over the years.
On my unit there's a through bolt, and a shaft key with set screw that connects the pto u-joint assembly at the input end outside the gear case, and those need regular checking and tightening if loose, too. That and all the other bolts/set screws/chain tension are nicely tightened up now and the unit actually sounds better and runs smoother than it's ever been.
I detailed some more in a post after tackling this earlier this winter.
HERE: B2782B loosening driveline

 

[nbryan]

Merry Christmas Everyone. The 3310 is in the 50 degree garage thawing a little so I can get to the chain. Thank you everyone for the input. This forum is such a joy to be a part of. I will report back in a few hours.

B2782B loosening driveline

 

[Snowman7]

B2782B loosening driveline

I will take a hard look at everything today. We have a heat wave coming in 3 days that includes rain. I really need to have my blower rolling before then.

 

[Snowman7]

I will take a hard look at everything today. We have a heat wave coming in 3 days that includes rain. I really need to have my blower rolling before then.

Update, my dealer said both of those pieces are worn out. The question is why? Probably 20 hours on blower, I always engage at idle and have never broke a shear pin. It is a mystery and makes me miss my old 59” John Deere front mount blower that gave me 22 years of 0 problems.
There must be an underlying issue that caused this wear.

 

[S-G-R]

Very unusual. Did they give you a time frame for the repair?

 

[Donystoy]

Very strange considering the amount used. I will ask my dealer if they are aware of any issues with this setup. I assembled my blower in October and if this is an issue I will order a spare coupling for after the warranty is over.

 

[DustyRusty]

As I said originally, there is something that is out of alignment or not set up correctly. You are not the first person with this problem, and being a newer design, the snowblower manufacturer might come up with a better system going forward. Once my snowblower is on the tractor I don't disengage the connection, unless I am checking it for a broken bolt. The broken bolt is an ongoing problem, and I believe that it is the low-speed torque that is causing it. I also run my blower at maximum RPM all the time.

 

[ve9aa]

That *IS* the $64,000.00 question.

Are you constantly engaging/disengaging the PTO/blower? (like every time you back up for example?)
Are you running your blower below 3000wpm?
Does it run smooth at your chosen RPM (not vibrating)?
Are you ever ENGAGING (or disengaging) it at 3000rpm? (better to do that at somewhere above "idle" but well below full RPM) (like maybe 1200-1400rpm)...I find if I engage mine at idle it thumps, engine lugs and it does not feel right. At 3000wpm, it doesn't feel right either.
Are you lifting it very high when going into a snowbank or when backing up?
Are you trying to blow snow with it lifted off the ground? (angled)

Something is making it wear out.

(with no disrespect intended) There is a CHANCE it might be something you're doing that you don't even know.

(or you got one built on Friday at 4pm or Monday at 7am--who knows.


"...Update, my dealer said both of those pieces are worn out. The question is why? Probably 20 hours on blower, I always engage at idle and have never broke a shear pin. It is a mystery and makes me miss my old 59” John Deere front mount blower that gave me 22 years of 0 problems.
There must be an underlying issue that caused this wear.

"...

 

[Snowman7]

So both couplings arrived today. I will replace tomorrow but like ve9aa stated “ something caused this and if it is me I am completely clueless”. I have been blowing snow for 37 years and
this is a first for me.

 

[Snowman7]

So both couplings arrived today. I will replace tomorrow but like ve9aa stated “ something caused this and if it is me I am completely clueless”. I have been blowing snow for 37 years and
this is a first for me.

I always float unless I can’t turn. Then I lift it 1/2” so my front tires bite. I probably lift it 4-6” when backing up. I engage at idle(1300), and I normally operate at about 2300-2350.

 

[DustyRusty]

I am not clueless, and I figured it out and made a post with my conclusions. You are free to make your own conclusions as to cause and effect.
https://www.orangetractortalks.com/...-connect-snowblower-problems-explained.61307/

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Curious...
About this K-connect system...
When you lift the blower section, does the 'coupler' attached to it ALSO move , relative to the 'coupler' on the PTO shaft ??

I look at this 'coupler unit' as being similar to a U-joint, but not connected with a 'cross'. If the two sections really do change the 'angle' when lifting/lowering then I'm super happy I didn't buy that 'system'.
Next week, next year, I'll visit Galer's and see if they have one in the showroom.

 

[atitus]

I read Dusty's article but I'm away from home right now but I'm going to check when I get back and see if mine has wear. To be fair though I have the BX not the LX the coupler looks in the pictures to be same fundamental design. On the BX there are multiple u-joints in the k-connect hitch and those angles do change when you raise and lower it. It's not obvious that is has any effect on the coupler engagement but now you can bet I'm going to check it. Thanks Dusty for the heads up.

 

[Donystoy]

I ran mine last week for the first time after the major snow storm. Lots of areas of heavy snow on my 4000 foot driveway. I engaged the pto at idle and operated at around 2200 rpm. Everything operated smoothly with no vibration or strange noises.
These connection points are held together by strong springs so wondering what would cause the OP's coupling to prematurely wear. Did it always operate smoothly up until recently?
Looked at the design of mine and would consider replacing this assembly with a telescoping driveshaft as there appears to be enough room for one. This of course only if I started to have similar issues.

 

[Snowman7]

I ran mine last week for the first time after the major snow storm. Lots of areas of heavy snow on my 4000 foot driveway. I engaged the pto at idle and operated at around 2200 rpm. Everything operated smoothly with no vibration or strange noises.
These connection points are held together by strong springs so wondering what would cause the OP's coupling to prematurely wear. Did it always operate smoothly up until recently?
Looked at the design of mine and would consider replacing this assembly with a telescoping driveshaft as there appears to be enough room for one. This of course only if I started to have similar issues.

Mine was smooth as silk all last year. Very little vibration

 

[Donystoy]

Will be seeing my dealer in the new year and will discuss this with them. When I was ordering mine in the fall he expressed a dislike of the k member system.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I downloaded the BX2816 snowblower manual, and if it's typical of the K-connect system I now understand the how and why they fail. The problem , as I see it, is that the 'coupler' is NOT designed to have much (if any ) angle between the two mating pieces, unlike a U-joint.
As designed you should ( are supposed to ??) lower blower down, engage PTO,increase RPM to max,use it, reduce RPM to idle, disengage PTO, move to next location, repeat as required.
This sequence should make the coupling last longer, but as designed,sooner or later, it will fail
You can extend the life if you can work out a 'route' that keeps raising and lowering the blower to a minimum. Also, when going in reverse, there's no need to raise the blower. For years , I've done one section of my lot that way..back and forth, blower down.