Snow trip blade (Land Pride STB 1072) observations

BozenBota

New member

Equipment
LX2610; RCR1542, FDR1260, BSS54P, PFL1242, STB1072, MacKissick TPH123, SCG0660
Jan 9, 2022
14
9
3
Capital Region, NY
In the process of buying the STB1072 I didn’t find an abundance of detailed reviews out there. The 12” or so we received last night gave a good opportunity to see how it performs in relatively deep snow.

My setup is the LX2610 cab with filled (Rim Gaurd) rears, factory spacers, Kubota third function and R4s. I’ve got the dual cylinder with cushion valve and steel edge. I’ve been running the BSS54P as ballast. I figure all in I’m probably around 3500 lbs with this setup. I clear our gravel driveway/parking area which slopes down from the roadway toward the garages, paths to the outbuildings (grass and not level), and a small flat trailhead parking area.

Overall impression is that with larger snowfall it pays to take smaller bites. Although it will push a lot of snow, angling the blade while floating the loader pushes the machine off course, though as soon as you lift the boom and weight the front tires you regain steerage. On the sloped driveway I plow across slope which means gravity compounds the issue. But even on flat ground a 2-pass-size 12” moderate moisture density snowfall windrow will push you off course if you angle.

I have run the skid shoes in a variety of positions, from zero spacers for ice, to an inch off the ground for snow on unfrozen ground to on 1/4” spacer today for the now frozen paved (frozen) surface and 1/2” for the grass. It takes a little practice to level the blade frame (taking some advice from folks on here I placed some black electric tape on the level rod for the blade vs the bucket) but once you get used to it it performs well. At this width, for instance, not having the left/right tilt or “side float” is not a huge deal; it follows the ground pretty well.

But caveats aside this setup will move some snow! The lower 22” (vs the LP 15 series 27”) moldboard performed fine in this snow, with little overtopping and good material curling action. Taking a first swipe straight on across the driveway was no problem. (But keep doing it this way and you’ll never clear up the spilled windrows!)

And back dragging also works well and depending how you angle the SSQA plate cylinders you can get pretty aggressive. Or you can run it level and angle the blade to back drag into windrows. (Backing uphill today I took short lengths of uncleared area instead of trying for an entire pass in the relatively deep snow, and this seemed to work without losing traction.) I’m able to get close to buildings and under tree canopy.

The dual cylinder setup is superior. When delivered our dealer did not have the dual cylinder/cushion valve assembly—only the single—and was very accommodating by setting up the single cylinder as a stop gap. It was about a month after delivery that the dual/cushion assembly arrived. So using both I think the action, while slightly slower, is smoother and more powerful with duals. Also when the blade is off the ground and is then angled, the single setup causes sudden movements that shake the loader frame due to the third function being essentially on/off; this shuddering is tamed with duals.

I have yet to trip the blade while plowing, and I’m wondering if I need to adjust the springs. It seems to me that a softer setting (ie easier trip) would be easier on all the gear. I was going to attempt adjustments pre-snowfall but found the springs to not have as much tension as I expected: I was able to manually “jiggle” or deflect them side to side—not a lot but enough deflection that made me hold off adjusting. I have been able to trip the blade manually (tho not make it travel much), by raising the blade off the ground and pulling on it myself, so I know it has some give. It just seems like ther should be a bit more. (Also as I think was mentioned on here previous make sure to remove the two bolts that lock out the trip function for dirt/silage work if you’re working snow.)

The STB1072 weighs about 400 lbs and with the dual cylinders seems pretty stout to me. I’ve not owned other plows so I don’t have much to compare it to. But I’m guessing with a little maintenance and care it will last quite awhile—even with regular use on the LX. In the end it’s a pretty simple device.

Another nice feature is that you don’t need to remove the loader to use it. On my old BX I was constantly switching between front blower and loader in the winter for snow removal and other loader tasks, like firewood logistics and brush clearing. With this setup the loader will stay on all winter; no more dorking around with quick hitches and mid PTO shafts when shifting among chores.

As a quick aside I’ve been surprisingly impressed with the R4s. I’ve had almost no traction issues in the snow and ice. For the several smaller snows I’ve run 2WD and not missed the front wheels driving. Our driveway has been pretty icy lately and the tractor has found grip even on the icier spots—enough that I felt confident enough to get out of the inherent control of 4WD and low range and such that I’ve not had any high pucker factor moments. I go slow and am careful but so far no complaints on the R4s. And in the deeper snow today which I shaved down in several iterations it really didn’t struggle for traction when driving through 6” with gravity against— except as I mention above, relative to the floating blade unweighting the fronts. When piling snow in medium range at the end of a pass I could bog down the engine: the tires still had plenty of traction to keep pushing/piling (missing that extra cylinder and five or so HP of the 3310).

On balance then I’m happy so far with the precision, flexibility (eg plowing with various skid shoe heights, back dragging, and scraping), and power (some of the piles out there are 9’ tall!) of this front angle trip blade setup. For us it’s a good compromise: on gravel it does a wider variety of snow and ice clearing tasks (such as scraping) out in front of the tractor without making tool adjustments, as compared to a blower or push box, or switching implements. (A blower admittedly would’ve been faster today.) Once you know some of the limitations, figure out how to work with gravity, and exercise some patience (seat time) with the larger snows, I think we made a good choice.

C5DCF88E-6C58-4EFC-B934-E9C1CA00C6A8.jpeg

C22F5E13-3FB1-4A42-90C1-60EAD4B6C4D9.jpeg
 
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Frank Bullitt

New member

Equipment
B2620,FEL,MMM, hydraulic snow blade
Oct 18, 2019
2
0
1
Finger Lakes region, NY USA
In the process of buying the STB1072 I didn’t find an abundance of detailed reviews out there. The 12” or so we received last night gave a good opportunity to see how it performs in relatively deep snow.

My setup is the LX2610 cab with filled (Rim Gaurd) rears, factory spacers, Kubota third function and R4s. I’ve got the dual cylinder with cushion valve and steel edge. I’ve been running the BSS54P as ballast. I figure all in I’m probably around 3500 lbs with this setup. I clear our gravel driveway/parking area which slopes down from the roadway toward the garages, paths to the outbuildings (grass and not level), and a small flat trailhead parking area.

Overall impression is that with larger snowfall it pays to take smaller bites. Although it will push a lot of snow, angling the blade while floating the loader pushes the machine off course, though as soon as you lift the boom and weight the front tires you regain steerage. On the sloped driveway I plow across slope which means gravity compounds the issue. But even on flat ground a 2-pass-size 12” moderate moisture density snowfall windrow will push you off course if you angle.

I have run the skid shoes in a variety of positions, from zero spacers for ice, to an inch off the ground for snow on unfrozen ground to on 1/4” spacer today for the now frozen paved (frozen) surface and 1/2” for the grass. It takes a little practice to level the blade frame (taking some advice from folks on here I placed some black electric tape on the level rod for the blade vs the bucket) but once you get used to it it performs well. At this width, for instance, not having the left/right tilt or “side float” is not a huge deal; it follows the ground pretty well.

But caveats aside this setup will move some snow! The lower 22” (vs the LP 15 series 27”) moldboard performed fine in this snow, with little overtopping and good material curling action. Taking a first swipe straight on across the driveway was no problem. (But keep doing it this way and you’ll never clear up the spilled windrows!)

And back dragging also works well and depending how you angle the SSQA plate cylinders you can get pretty aggressive. Or you can run it level and angle the blade to back drag into windrows. (Backing uphill today I took short lengths of uncleared area instead of trying for an entire pass in the relatively deep snow, and this seemed to work without losing traction.) I’m able to get close to buildings and under tree canopy.

The dual cylinder setup is superior. When delivered our dealer did not have the dual cylinder/cushion valve assembly—only the single—and was very accommodating by setting up the single cylinder as a stop gap. It was about a month after delivery that the dual/cushion assembly arrived. So using both I think the action, while slightly slower, is smoother and more powerful with duals. Also when the blade is off the ground and is then angled, the single setup causes sudden movements that shake the loader frame due to the third function being essentially on/off; this shuddering is tamed with duals.

I have yet to trip the blade while plowing, and I’m wondering if I need to adjust the springs. It seems to me that a softer setting (ie easier trip) would be easier on all the gear. I was going to attempt adjustments pre-snowfall but found the springs to not have as much tension as I expected: I was able to manually “jiggle” or deflect them side to side—not a lot but enough deflection that made me hold off adjusting. I have been able to trip the blade manually (tho not make it travel much), by raising the blade off the ground and pulling on it myself, so I know it has some give. It just seems like ther should be a bit more. (Also as I think was mentioned on here previous make sure to remove the two bolts that lock out the trip function for dirt/silage work if you’re working snow.)

The STB1072 weighs about 400 lbs and with the dual cylinders seems pretty stout to me. I’ve not owned other plows so I don’t have much to compare it to. But I’m guessing with a little maintenance and care it will last quite awhile—even with regular use on the LX. In the end it’s a pretty simple device.

Another nice feature is that you don’t need to remove the loader to use it. On my old BX I was constantly switching between front blower and loader in the winter for snow removal and other loader tasks, like firewood logistics and brush clearing. With this setup the loader will stay on all winter; no more dorking around with quick hitches and mid PTO shafts when shifting among chores.

As a quick aside I’ve been surprisingly impressed with the R4s. I’ve had almost no traction issues in the snow and ice. For the several smaller snows I’ve run 2WD and not missed the front wheels driving. Our driveway has been pretty icy lately and the tractor has found grip even on the icier spots—enough that I felt confident enough to get out of the inherent control of 4WD and low range and such that I’ve not had any high pucker factor moments. I go slow and am careful but so far no complaints on the R4s. And in the deeper snow today which I shaved down in several iterations it really didn’t struggle for traction when driving through 6” with gravity against— except as I mention above, relative to the floating blade unweighting the fronts. When piling snow in medium range at the end of a pass I could bog down the engine: the tires still had plenty of traction to keep pushing/piling (missing that extra cylinder and five or so HP of the 3310).

On balance then I’m happy so far with the precision, flexibility (eg plowing with various skid shoe heights, back dragging, and scraping), and power (some of the piles out there are 9’ tall!) of this front angle trip blade setup. For us it’s a good compromise: on gravel it does a wider variety of snow and ice clearing tasks (such as scraping) out in front of the tractor without making tool adjustments, as compared to a blower or push box, or switching implements. (A blower admittedly would’ve been faster today.) Once you know some of the limitations, figure out how to work with gravity, and exercise some patience (seat time) with the larger snows, I think we made a good choice.

View attachment 73529

View attachment 73530
Great summary and equipment description to all aspects of snow removal!

I am evaluating a nearly identical configuration to upgrade my present B2620 HST R4 FEL with power angle 5-1/2' Kubota plow set up and have a couple questions.

Considering LX2610 ROPS , R14 w/Rim Guard, 3rd function for future grapple, SS QA power angle plow 5' or 6' . Very interested and past due for rapid switch over between plow and bucket.
I maintain two gravel driveways approx 900' and 800' with curves, banking and steep grades. No intentions for snow thrower implements.

Currently set skid shoes at 3/4- 1" above uneven gravel surface and can struggle with ice during thaws and refreezing conditions. Can the STB scrape effectively in non-float settings?

I also plow grass walking trails with uphill access only and presently reverse up grade on chained rears. Quick hitch can get hung up on deeper snows. Does your set up allow safe access to uphill and downhill grades?
 

Mossy dell

Active member

Equipment
B2601 (2021) JD970 (1998) B2100 (1991) B6100E (1988)
Jul 20, 2020
274
125
43
sw VA
Bozen, that's quite an impressive setup! Good info too. I have a B2601 and a 5' Kubota blade. Getting my first experiences with the blade the last two days.

I have a third function and need to get a cylinder kit for my blade! I had thought I could angle the blade one way for plowing my steep asphalt drive going down, and then turn around and use the same angle for the other side going up. But my tractor is too small to plow uphill! I have found I lose steering. So I have to drive back up, turn the blade, and do the other side going down.

My immediate problem is excessive wear on the rubber edge I put on. Will probably try a plastic edge though before the steel edge and shoes. Taking off the shoes to get ice scares me because I'd gouge. My drive is so steep can't afford leaving an inch in some places. The worst place is where the drive takes a sharp final curve to the house and it's the steepest. Trucks have gotten hung up there when the asphalt was just wet.

Are you using your blade in float with the skid shoes?

My rig with rubber edge on 5' blade:

Front Blade1, 1-2-22.jpg


Headed uphill, house at top of hill on far right:


Snow-Back up Drive 1-17-22.jpg


Headed down; hill on left and ravine on right below pines:
Snow-Headed Down 1-17-22.jpg
 
Last edited:

BozenBota

New member

Equipment
LX2610; RCR1542, FDR1260, BSS54P, PFL1242, STB1072, MacKissick TPH123, SCG0660
Jan 9, 2022
14
9
3
Capital Region, NY
Great summary and equipment description to all aspects of snow removal!

I am evaluating a nearly identical configuration to upgrade my present B2620 HST R4 FEL with power angle 5-1/2' Kubota plow set up and have a couple questions.

Considering LX2610 ROPS , R14 w/Rim Guard, 3rd function for future grapple, SS QA power angle plow 5' or 6' . Very interested and past due for rapid switch over between plow and bucket.
I maintain two gravel driveways approx 900' and 800' with curves, banking and steep grades. No intentions for snow thrower implements.

Currently set skid shoes at 3/4- 1" above uneven gravel surface and can struggle with ice during thaws and refreezing conditions. Can the STB scrape effectively in non-float settings?

I also plow grass walking trails with uphill access only and presently reverse up grade on chained rears. Quick hitch can get hung up on deeper snows. Does your set up allow safe access to uphill and downhill grades?

Frank, I have used the STB for scraping mainly in reverse and back dragging but also mostly in float. Angling the arms down and tilting the plow down puts more pressure on the cutting edge, which in turn has the plow + a portion of loader weight on it. I think this option—to use the weight of the blade/loader on the blade—might be another advantage for you over the quick hitch plow. Best to attack it before it (re)freezes! With curves and uneven ground having the lateral float function, tho I’m not sure who offers in a medium duty 60-72” version.

We have the reverse situation: I’m almost always plowing downhill. If I were going uphill more I’d want more HP. I suspect the main advantage you’d have here with the loader mounted blade, is lifting the blade off the ground, out of float, to weight the front tires. I’ve found this progressive scraping technique pretty effective, if more time consuming, especially when you know where the obstacles are/have deep snow/need more traction.
 

BozenBota

New member

Equipment
LX2610; RCR1542, FDR1260, BSS54P, PFL1242, STB1072, MacKissick TPH123, SCG0660
Jan 9, 2022
14
9
3
Capital Region, NY
Bozen, that's quite an impressive setup! Good info too. I have a B2601 and a 5' Kubota blade. Getting my first experiences with the blade the last two days.

I have a third function and need to get a cylinder kit for my blade! I had thought I could angle the blade one way for plowing my steep asphalt drive going down, and then turn around and use the same angle for the other side going up. But my tractor is too small to plow uphill! I have found I lose steering. So I have to drive back up, turn the blade, and do the other side going down.

My immediate problem is excessive wear on the rubber edge I put on. Will probably try a plastic edge though before the steel edge and shoes. Taking off the shoes to get ice scares me because I'd gouge. My drive is so steep can't afford leaving an inch in some places. The worst place is where the drive takes a sharp final curve to the house and it's the steepest. Trucks have gotten hung up there when the asphalt was just wet.

Are you using your blade in float with the skid shoes?

My rig with rubber edge on 5' blade:

View attachment 73554

Headed uphill, house at top of hill on far right:


View attachment 73552

Headed down; hill on left and ravine on right below pines:
View attachment 73553
Mossy dell, Yes - float and with skid shoes at various positions going forward. But I’ll tilt the loader/blade forward and back drag for those areas I want see gravel. I have read good things about the poly cutting edges for asphalt surfaces but have no experience. Another thought is a broom, which would allow you to finish that last fraction of an inch on those critical spots to keep snow/ice free. I would consider a PTO spreader for sanding at our place but we just don’t have enough surface area to treat to justify. I would definitely spring for hydraulic angle if you’ve already got the third function. Looks like a pleasant spot from your photos, especially in winter.
 
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