Snow removal problem

[Totlh]

I have a 600' paved driveway. It is rather steep on both ends, leave the main road and go down a hill and then back up again. I have a L5460 CAB HST with a heavy blade I've mounted on the FEL. In my opinion it is to heavy. I appears to be something I could grade earth with. So, I put heavy duty steel wheels on it to keep from digging into my pavement. However, my problem is traction. I would like to say at least going down hill is no problem but there are times when the tractor takes off. Not fun when you see one of your front tires rotating backwards going down the hill. Steering is minimal if any. This might be fun if one side of the driveway did not drop off significantly.

I have R4 tires on my tractor. I've read where turf tires actually have better traction in these conditions.

I also have a RTV 1100 with turf tires. I'm considering buying a snow blade for the front of the RTV.

I'm looking for input on whether or not this is worth the investment. (about $3,000) Anyone had experience using the RTV1100 to move snow? On a hill? If so, what type of tires do you use? I've stayed away from chains because I don't want my pavement all dug up due to spinning.

Thanks in advance for your opinions/experiences.
Jerry

 

[majorwager]

To be honest, turf tires on my little ford are better than the Kubota w/ r-4's in the snow. I don't plow on any significant grades, so not much input.

Are you resting the plow in the FLOAT position? Actually, the front axle engaged should offer good control. Float actually impedes traction in My experience.

My tires are not loaded on Kubota but do have about 700 lbs of implement ballast, which offers acceptable stability, but again, no hills.

There was a member who purchased those screw in tire studs. Not sure how they perform. Chains are destructive on pavement so that may not be wise.

Wish I had a solution, others will try to help, I am sure, best wishes.

 

[Tughill Tom]

I have a 600' paved driveway. It is rather steep on both ends, leave the main road and go down a hill and then back up again. I have a L5460 CAB HST with a heavy blade I've mounted on the FEL. In my opinion it is to heavy. I appears to be something I could grade earth with. So, I put heavy duty steel wheels on it to keep from digging into my pavement. However, my problem is traction. I would like to say at least going down hill is no problem but there are times when the tractor takes off. Not fun when you see one of your front tires rotating backwards going down the hill. Steering is minimal if any. This might be fun if one side of the driveway did not drop off significantly.

I have R4 tires on my tractor. I've read where turf tires actually have better traction in these conditions.

I also have a RTV 1100 with turf tires. I'm considering buying a snow blade for the front of the RTV.

I'm looking for input on whether or not this is worth the investment. (about $3,000) Anyone had experience using the RTV1100 to move snow? On a hill? If so, what type of tires do you use? I've stayed away from chains because I don't want my pavement all dug up due to spinning.

Thanks in advance for your opinions/experiences.
Jerry

I have the same issue as you, I studded the R4s on the B3200 and it helped the traction issues. I also put a plow on my Can-am Commander and use it up to about 6". It works out nicely for those touch ups and lower snow days.

 

[groomerbuck]

Two yrs ago i had a little kubota bx with a 60” plow setup. I had r4 tires on that machine and found them to be horrible for plowing on my pavement driveway. I did change out the r4 for a set of turf and it was a significant improvement over the r4 for snow removal. With that said, i had a total of 450.00 wrapped up into my turf tires and rims. Im not sure i could justify in your case(3k worth) for that amount of improvement.

Are you running any type of rear ballast? In my experience rear ballast always seem to effect steering in snow removal. I never use any ballast in the winter because i want as much steering capabilities as possible.

 

[Totlh]

Two yrs ago i had a little kubota bx with a 60” plow setup. I had r4 tires on that machine and found them to be horrible for plowing on my pavement driveway. I did change out the r4 for a set of turf and it was a significant improvement over the r4 for snow removal. With that said, i had a total of 450.00 wrapped up into my turf tires and rims. Im not sure i could justify in your case(3k worth) for that amount of improvement.

Are you running any type of rear ballast? In my experience rear ballast always seem to effect steering in snow removal. I never use any ballast in the winter because i want as much steering capabilities as possible.

My rear tires are filled with fliud. Initially, my snow blade was used as a three point attachment.

 

[BAP]

Sounds like you need some 3 point hitch ballast and a set of tire chains.

 

[fruitcakesa]

Sounds like you need some 3 point hitch ballast and a set of tire chains.

Rear ballast and chains are your friend in winter.
I have loaded tires and full wrap lug chains for security and have never been stuck[knock on wood]

 

[KennysNewFarm]

Is your RTV1100 four wheel drive?

 

[Mike9]

I have R-4s on the front and Tru-Powers on the back. I bought a tire grooving iron and grooved both pair and have no issues in snow, or mud going up and down hill. I have chains, but have never put them on after grooving and sipping.

 

[Jchonline]

Sounds like you need some 3 point hitch ballast and a set of tire chains.

Chains. These will also prevent you from sliding sideways. R4s are like skis running across the tire, they have no real gripping ability left and right on ice, only front and back (if that makes sense).

 

[Jchonline]

I have R-4s on the front and Tru-Powers on the back. I bought a tire grooving iron and grooved both pair and have no issues in snow, or mud going up and down hill. I have chains, but have never put them on after grooving and sipping.

Now this is interesting I like it Mike! Have you noticed any significant wear in the tires during non winter months after grooving them?

 

[SDT]

I have a 600' paved driveway. It is rather steep on both ends, leave the main road and go down a hill and then back up again. I have a L5460 CAB HST with a heavy blade I've mounted on the FEL. In my opinion it is to heavy. I appears to be something I could grade earth with. So, I put heavy duty steel wheels on it to keep from digging into my pavement. However, my problem is traction. I would like to say at least going down hill is no problem but there are times when the tractor takes off. Not fun when you see one of your front tires rotating backwards going down the hill. Steering is minimal if any. This might be fun if one side of the driveway did not drop off significantly.

I have R4 tires on my tractor. I've read where turf tires actually have better traction in these conditions.

I also have a RTV 1100 with turf tires. I'm considering buying a snow blade for the front of the RTV.

I'm looking for input on whether or not this is worth the investment. (about $3,000) Anyone had experience using the RTV1100 to move snow? On a hill? If so, what type of tires do you use? I've stayed away from chains because I don't want my pavement all dug up due to spinning.

Thanks in advance for your opinions/experiences.
Jerry

I've been plowing a 900+' steep asphalt driveway with my B1750HST and 6' back blade for about 25 years.

The 1750 has turf tires on the front and compatible bar (not R-1 or R-4) tires on the back. Without chains it will plow significant snow going downhill but very little going uphill. I have HD 2 link ladder chains for both front and rear tires and have used them for nearly 25 years without issues with the asphalt. It's a tank with the chains on. There is no FEL on the B1750 and the tires are not loaded.

Be advised that there are more aggressive chains available that are not recommended for asphalt. Go to tirechains.com to read about the various types of chains and the suitability of each for various conditions.

Last year I bought a RTVX-1100C. I also bought the front mounted snow plow for it but haven't used it yet because I had no snow needing plowing last winter. My RTV has the so-called worksite tires, which are similar to turf tires. The RTV is heavy and I do not expect to have any problems plowing snow with the RTV without chains but, again, I have not yet tried.

Tractors are not designed for snow and do not do well therein without chains but tires do make a difference. Turf type tires are best, R-1 tires less so, and R-4 tires just about useless. Even with turf tires, you will need chains to move significant snow.

Last summer, I bought a B3350 with FEL and FEL mounted hydraulically angled snow plow. The 3350 has R-4 tires so I bought F & R 2 link ladder chains for it. I doubt if it would drive up my driveway hill without chains with the R-4s, even without the snow plow. The chains arrived about 10 days ago and I fitted and test installed them last week. The 2 link ladder chains are a good design for R-4s and safe for asphalt, given reasonable common sense. I also have a ballast box for it filled with about 350 Lbs. of bagged playground sand to counterbalance the FEL. Haven't used this set-up yet but expect that it will do well even on my steep driveway.

SDT

 

[Jchonline]

I've been plowing a 900+' steep asphalt driveway with my B1750HST and 6' back blade for about 25 years.

The 1750 has turf tires on the front and compatible bar (not R-1 or R-4) tires on the back. Without chains it will plow significant snow going downhill but very little going uphill. I have HD 2 link ladder chains for both front and rear tires and have used them for nearly 25 years without issues with the asphalt. It's a tank with the chains on. There is no FEL on the B1750 and the tires are not loaded.

Be advised that there are more aggressive chains available that are not recommended for asphalt. Go to tirechains.com to read about the various types of chains and the suitability of each for various conditions.

Last year I bought a RTVX-1100C. I also bought the front mounted snow plow for it but haven't used it yet because I had no snow needing plowing last winter. My RTV has the so-called worksite tires, which are similar to turf tires. The RTV is heavy and I do not expect to have any problems plowing snow with the RTV without chains but, again, I have not yet tried.

Tractors are not designed for snow and do not do well therein without chains but tires do make a difference. Turf type tires are best, R-1 tires less so, and R-4 tires just about useless. Even with turf tires, you will need chains to move significant snow.

Last summer, I bought a B3350 with FEL and FEL mounted hydraulically angled snow plow. The 3350 has R-4 tires so I bought F & R 2 link ladder chains for it. I doubt if it would drive up my driveway hill without chains with the R-4s, even without the snow plow. The chains arrived about 10 days ago and I fitted and test installed them last week. The 2 link ladder chains are a good design for R-4s and safe for asphalt, given reasonable common sense. I also have a ballast box for it filled with about 350 Lbs. of bagged playground sand to counterbalance the FEL. Haven't used this set-up yet but expect that it will do well even on my steep driveway.

SDT

Oh man those studded chains look wicked. Thanks for the link!

 

[rjcorazza]

There is a topic here somewhere specifically dealing with tire grooving...
I grooved my R4’s on the previous 2 tractors, and it does make a difference in traction in the snow. For iced pavement nothing short of chains / studs are going to help.

There have been zero wear issues after grooving.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

 

[SDT]

Oh man those studded chains look wicked. Thanks for the link!

Studded or V-bar chains are great for snow and ice but not acceptable for use on asphalt.

SDT

 

[Jchonline]

I saw that. I am on disintegrated granite, so I don't mind the studs at all!

 

[Totlh]

Is your RTV1100 four wheel drive?

Yes, it is 4 wheel drive with the option to lock the rear differential.

 

[Totlh]

While $3K may seem like a lot to solve this problem...

#1 The driveway is too long to do by hand.
#2 I've already slid off the lower side of the drive way and I was unsure if I was going to get it out of there with the shinny side up. I'm thinking it would have been expensive if I rolled my new L5460HSTC. At that point $3K would seem cheap.
#3 We recently had snow with very little ice under it. I barely made the hill using the bucket on the FEL to push the snow. Tires spinning to make it up the hill. Enough is enough.

Today I ordered a snow blade for my RTV 1100. $1700. I'll have it in 10 days. The RTV has a cab with HVAC so I'll still be warm and my L5460HSTC will remain safely in the shed available for a more appropriate task.

Thanks everyone for you input. It confirmed what I thought I knew.

Jerry

 

[John Lash]

I have a long steep asphalt drive. Hills up in both directions. Chains are a pain to put on, take off and worry about damaging the asphalt.

I can always plow downhill, sometimes uphill. If there's ice i can usually plow downhill but can't get back up to the house. Sometimes it's just wet under the snow and cold so that the water freezes shortly after the snow is plowed off.

There's ice at least once a season. So I put the chains on and leave them on...

I got the Aquiline MPC chains from Tirechainsrus.com. They are a net style that claims to not damage asphalt, they look wicked and I'm sure if you sat there spinning it would do some damage. Of course a B2650 needed the Kubota spacers for clearance between the tires and fenders.

 

[Mike9]

Now this is interesting I like it Mike! Have you noticed any significant wear in the tires during non winter months after grooving them?

Not really and sometimes I have to take it on the road. In the field, or drive (shale/item-4) I don't notice any extra wear.