Sigh, I need to tap one of my lug holes. Any advice?

Jaymo

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Hi All,
I did something I never thought I would do. My back wheel nearly came off after some overly industrious brush hogging on a rocky area. I win the biggest idiot award of the month.
All things said, the inner wheel well is replaced and all but one of the new lug nuts are back on, but one lug hole (for the headless screw is not screwing in.
I am assuming I need to tap this to get a clean thread. Does anyone have any experience with this? I am assuming I find the right size tap with correct thread number to start. But I'm worried about not getting the new threading straight. Am I using a hand drill. Seems fishy.
Any advice, even a recount of your own experience would be very helpful.
Thanks
 

jimh406

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I don't know if it will hold the torque, but if it will, I'd try a heli-coil.
 
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Russell King

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You may want to get to five posts and post a picture of the damaged hole.

The best case scenario would be to get a thread “chaser” that just cleans and reforms the existing threads.

A thread tap could be used but it would want to remove material from the hole. The material has already been removed to properly form the threaded hole. You would end up with “imperfect” threads which would work but not have the full strength of the original. (Which isn’t the worst thing on the planet)

If too much material is already missing from the hole (threads are stripped out and are in the old bolt threads) then you cannot re-thread the existing hole back to original threads. In this case you will have to use a threaded insert (Timesert, Helicoil… )

One other option may be to just use a nut instead of a threaded hole in that position. But then you need a longer bolt and clearance on the backside for the nut to swing 360 degrees around the axle (and not rip something else off the tractor)
 
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D2Cat

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How does a back wheel come off while brush hogging? Rocky area doesn't matter. I'm missing part of the picture. Show us some pictures to complement your word description.
 

Jim L.

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Thread chasing or tapping should be done by hand so that one can feel when to back off. The tap or chase should be held by a handle made for the cutting part. The routine is to start and make sure the tap is in sync with the thread cutter, turn forward carefully a partial or full turn, and then reverse so as to expel the spoil. Thread cutting oil or regular light oil is needed for an easier job.

A picture of what is there will get more specific advice.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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For sure, do it by HAND....NO power tools !!!!

Find out the correct size of the bolt, something like 1/2-20 , 1/2" diameter, 20 threads per inch.
Use the other side, same bolt ( 'headless screw' )...take to store

2nd..Buy the 'tap' that's for that bolt size

patience, oil and some light blasts of air ( to clean out the hole)

oh yeah, read the first line again.....
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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Tap it through from the back side.
The threads are more than likely fine on the back part of the hub.
 
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TheOldHokie

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Hi All,
I did something I never thought I would do. My back wheel nearly came off after some overly industrious brush hogging on a rocky area. I win the biggest idiot award of the month.
All things said, the inner wheel well is replaced and all but one of the new lug nuts are back on, but one lug hole (for the headless screw is not screwing in.
I am assuming I need to tap this to get a clean thread. Does anyone have any experience with this? I am assuming I find the right size tap with correct thread number to start. But I'm worried about not getting the new threading straight.
Am I using a hand drill. Seems fishy.
Any advice, even a recount of your own experience would be very helpful.
Thanks
If the threads are damaged to the point a new stud will not screw in I would repair the threads right now. Install a thread repair insert of your choice. Personally my choice would be heli-coil.

Dan
 

Trimley

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I'd attempt to clean out the threads from the back-side if doable. Then if the lug bolt still wouldn't thread from the front, perhaps a lug bolt could be threaded from the rear, for use of a lugnut on the face. A helicoil as a last resort.
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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Another option is if the thread is damaged beyond repair, you can drill it out and use a drive in stud.
It would be the safest option.
 
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Jaymo

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Ulster County, NY
You may want to get to five posts and post a picture of the damaged hole.

The best case scenario would be to get a thread “chaser” that just cleans and reforms the existing threads.

A thread tap could be used but it would want to remove material from the hole. The material has already been removed to properly form the threaded hole. You would end up with “imperfect” threads which would work but not have the full strength of the original. (Which isn’t the worst thing on the planet)

If too much material is already missing from the hole (threads are stripped out and are in the old bolt threads) then you cannot re-thread the existing hole back to original threads. In this case you will have to use a threaded insert (Timesert, Helicoil… )

One other option may be to just use a nut instead of a threaded hole in that position. But then you need a longer bolt and clearance on the backside for the nut to swing 360 degrees around the axle (and not rip something else off the tractor)
I think I'm pretty sure it's not too damaged, so hopefully your idea about a thread chaser is going to work. Thanks for the great advice.
 

Jaymo

New member
Aug 27, 2019
6
3
3
Ulster County, NY
Hi All,
I did something I never thought I would do. My back wheel nearly came off after some overly industrious brush hogging on a rocky area. I win the biggest idiot award of the month.
All things said, the inner wheel well is replaced and all but one of the new lug nuts are back on, but one lug hole (for the headless screw is not screwing in.
I am assuming I need to tap this to get a clean thread. Does anyone have any experience with this? I am assuming I find the right size tap with correct thread number to start. But I'm worried about not getting the new threading straight. Am I using a hand drill. Seems fishy.
Any advice, even a recount of your own experience would be very helpful.
Thanks
IMG_1731.jpeg

Well, since all of you have given me such great and thorough advice, I figured you earned a photo of my dumbassery. Enjoy.
 
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D2Cat

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If you're working on it yourself, if that tire is loaded with fluid, be aware it is HEAVY, so handle it accordingly.
 

Trimley

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View attachment 139489
Well, since all of you have given me such great and thorough advice, I figured you earned a photo of my dumbassery. Enjoy.
Ouchie. I might maybe grab a cordless sawzall or cutting torch, after propping that to stay upright. Then a BFH for persuasion.

The ovals I would probably reenforce by welding and filling back in.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

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Ouchie. I might maybe grab a cordless sawzall or cutting torch, after propping that to stay upright. Then a BFH for persuasion.

The ovals I would probably reenforce by welding and filling back in.
I personally would probably be buying a new center for that rim.

You could use large flat washers to make up for the egg holes, but the lock washers would be able to spin right off of them, putting you right back in the same situation!
 

Trimley

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I personally would probably be buying a new center for that rim.

You could use large flat washers to make up for the egg holes, but the lock washers would be able to spin right off of them, putting you right back in the same situation!
I have a tendency to speak in riddle, assuming one would catch on. Not always the case, as I come over as being a JERK. Bad habit of mine.

In a time of need, I might weld a thick hardened washer over the ovulation.

Your suggestion is the ideal approach.
 
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GreensvilleJay

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I 2nd a new center. IF your time IS money, you're $$ ahead buying a new center. Trying to fill in 3/4" 'holes' to precise 1/2" ones, well , ok, it can be done IF you have the tools and time.

You HAVE to remove center to repair it, might as well install new center and be 'back in the field' in an hour.
 
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jimh406

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I'm thinking that if someone was capable of doing a big job, they probably wouldn't be asking. But, hey, I could be wrong.
 
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