Shortening a chain saw chain?

[TheOldHokie]

In this instance I see nothing wrong with making an economic decision. Heck it would be more economical to just throw the chain away: LINK

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By the way, I am not a chainsaw expert, but I have the T shirt.

I would agree. Economics says toss or return the $20 loop and buy the correct chain. I have the same T shirt but it says Husquavarna on it.

Dan

 

[torch]

In this instance I see nothing wrong with making an economic decision. Heck it would be more economical to just throw the chain away:
By the way, I am not a chainsaw expert, but I have the T shirt.

Depends on the chain. I have a couple of loops of carbide chain for this bad boy:

At over $300 per loop, I replace the individual chipped cutter links when required. The first time paid for the spinner and breaker!

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Depends on the chain. I have a couple of loops of carbide chain for this bad boy:

At over $300 per loop, I replace the individual chipped cutter links when required. The first time paid for the spinner and breaker!

Can you sharpen those carbide teeth?
Reason I ask: I use 9" Forester brush blades with the chain saw teeth. The steel tooth version cuts really well, but needs sharpening after a half day. So, I started using the carbide version. They don't seem to be quite as sharp out of the box, but last much longer. I've tried sharpening them with a Harbor Freight 'diamond' burr in my Dremel tool without much success. Is there a better way, or are these disposable?

 

[Magicman]

Yup.

 

[Magicman]

Here is the 42" butt log from Reply #20 above. Shown here just before sawing Saturday morning.

 

[torch]

They don't seem to be quite as sharp out of the box, but last much longer.

They can be sharpened, you need a fine-grained diamond or silicon carbide wheel. I don't know if your burr is fine enough.

Carbide is brittle compared to steel, so the sharpening angle is less keen. Steel can be sharpened to a finer angle because it is tougher. If carbide is sharpened to the same angle, it will just chip off at the edge in short order. But carbide is much harder so it will hold it's edge much longer and is particularly useful in dirty wood that will quickly dull a steel cutter, such as cutting off the stump near ground level or where I suspect there is metal buried somewhere inside the trunk like along an old fence line.

In my day job, we use carbide chains in our roof saws, cutting ventilation holes right through shingles, nails, flashing etc. A steel chain won't last a minute in that application.

 

[Chuck Woolery]

I am sorry but i must disagree. Breaking a chainsaw chain and/or spinning a new rivet to shorten it is not dangerous. I sharpen chains and make saw chain loops from bulk chain all the time. I use the same pitch and gauge chain on two different saws and four different bar lengths. Making a chain to a custom length is a simple. safe, and economical process. All you need is a length of chain and rivet spinner.

Dan

Key phrase, you do it all the time. For a one time event without the proper tools and no knowledge on the subject other than a youtube video, I'd still prefer to be safer and buy a different chain. Plus it's most likely cheaper for a home owner saw than buying the proper tools to shorten one chain.

But that's why we're all entitled to our own opinions.

 

[Tooljunkie]

Many shops that sell chains make them up as well, the 5 or 6 dollars to have it shortened is less than buying another chain.
i have made 100’s and 100’s of chains and its easy with the right tools and correct repair links. Repair links are brand specific. Oregon,stihl and windsor chain parts are not interchangeable.
2 gauges and 3 pitches makes 18 different links that a guy would have to stock. Actually, its only 15 as 3/8” lo pro is only one gauge.

most saw bars have the chain link specs stamped into the bar on one side. May have to remove and clean bar to find them.