Shop/Shed 30x60

[UnEasyRider]

These lights work 100% better than LED strips. and they work in an A base fixture (normal old light bulb).

2 Pack LED Garage Lights, 150W 15000LM 6500K Deformable LED Garage Ceiling Light | eBay

Super bright garage light. Compared the incandescent lamp, you don't need to replace frequently, the life of the light source has more than 50000 hours, which greatly reduces maintenance costs. Its 80+CRI shows better color rendition, make the world of your vision more clear and truly.

www.ebay.com

60W E27 LED Garage Light 4 Blades Ceiling Fixture Lights Deformable Bulb Lamp US | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 60W E27 LED Garage Light 4 Blades Ceiling Fixture Lights Deformable Bulb Lamp US at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Agree...I bought a number of these from Amazon in 200..250 and 300 watt sizes and boy do they put out the light...cheaply too I might add!

 

[PoTreeBoy]

These lights work 100% better than LED strips. and they work in an A base fixture (normal old light bulb).

2 Pack LED Garage Lights, 150W 15000LM 6500K Deformable LED Garage Ceiling Light | eBay

Super bright garage light. Compared the incandescent lamp, you don't need to replace frequently, the life of the light source has more than 50000 hours, which greatly reduces maintenance costs. Its 80+CRI shows better color rendition, make the world of your vision more clear and truly.

www.ebay.com

60W E27 LED Garage Light 4 Blades Ceiling Fixture Lights Deformable Bulb Lamp US | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 60W E27 LED Garage Light 4 Blades Ceiling Fixture Lights Deformable Bulb Lamp US at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

I may use those.

 

[Plant 175]

I'm kind of a LED nut, I have 1000's of LED types in every color and form factor.
And this is not an exaggeration, there are boxes and box of them.
I have individual LED's as small as a pin head (they are soooo hard to work with) all the way up to a silver dollar, I have ropes, strips, neon's, bulbs and various fixtures.
And all of the drivers, repeaters, remote controls, power supplies and such to run them.

HI, I'm North Idaho Wolfman and I have an LED problem!

I did physically tests with 10+ different light fixtures on my garage and shops, and this style won.
I tested a lot of different brands and types.
The blade light put out the best spread of light at the highest Lumens for the lowest overall cost.
The real benefit to me is that they fit a standard base so when they go out, they just unscrew and screw in a new one.

I have put 1000's of hours on them and they are holding up perfectly.
I did have a few that showed up dead or burned out way to early but most sellers will replace them with no issues.
We did a unplanned test on one fixture when we were building out house, it was lit for 3+ years, on all the time, hit by surges, power outages, hot (103f) cold (-20f) and it's still working to this day.
so they hold up really well.

We did have the older LED's on the trailer and there were 2 outside lights that stayed on all the time, it was interesting that over several years they would get dimmer and dimmer, you'd really notice it when you changed them out.

One note: I bought the ones at Home Depot and a local farm and feed store and both failed in a extremely short period of time, they were very disappointing.

Second best was UFO lights but they are hard wired and pricey, they do put out more light but they are 3 to 4 times the cost.

Every light in our home is LED and they all had to be tested too before we installed them, we have various styles but most are flat panel ones.

Static test with all LED's lit up full bright, in house and 2 shops it works out to about $5 a month, and our place is not dim! Mrs. NIW complains they are too bright even with dimmers.

The garage has two sets of lights Lower Lumen flat panel lights, and High lumen blade lights.

View attachment 110689

View attachment 110690

Wow thats nicer than my house

 

[PoTreeBoy]

BIL helped me get the bands up over the truss ends and finish siding on one end today. My neighbor's geese came in to roost as I was picking up.

I helped them clear out a thicket along the county road yesterday. They found, or rather the yellow jackets found them, Saturday. Seems the little boogers didn't like the chainsaw noises. Ten got my BIL and one got my sister. We still haven't found the nest hole.

 

[BAP]

Looking good

 

[aaluck]

Great job.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

BIL helped me get the bands up over the truss ends and finish siding on one end today. My neighbor's geese came in to roost as I was picking up.

I helped them clear out a thicket along the county road yesterday. They found, or rather the yellow jackets found them, Saturday. Seems the little boogers didn't like the chainsaw noises. Ten got my BIL and one got my sister. We still haven't found the nest hole.
View attachment 110784

Found it. They were pretty active around noon today.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

The front and east end are essentially done. I've mounted the meter base and breaker panel. I need to find an electrician to tell me how to do the grounding and bonding to the utility's satisfaction.

I've started siding on the west end. This corner is higher off the ground, so I've started using the forks to hold the panels up so I can nail.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

West end is finished. Just lack the rear.

 

[CiscoRanger]

Looking great, Po!

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Yesterday and today, Katy and I dug a trench for the 2-1/2" electrical feed, ran the conduit and started back-filling. Hopefully, tomorrow I can backfill, run the warning tape and drive the ground rod. Then the power company can install the transformer on the pole in the foreground, and run the conduit up the pole and wire to the meter.

The green paint around the meter base is a color test plus I wanted a good coating under the meter base, etc. I think I'm going with it.

 

[BX25D Rookie]

PoTreeBoy,
Yellowjackets. The spawn of the devil.
CRC brand of Brake Cleaner in the Red Can. With the little red plastic tube in the spray valve.
Nothing I have ever tried kills them faster.
You can spray it down a hole, into a nest, or on a painted drywall surface inside a house.
It dries, leaving no residue, unlike many of the "oily" wasp & bee sprays.
You want the stuff that is "chlorinated", the "non chlorinated" stuff in the Green Can is worthless.
The better half here in my house is allergic to bee/wasp/yellowjacket stings.
I keep a can in the house ready to use, one in the screened sun porch, and in the barn, a case.
If you "paint" a yellowjacket with the Red Can spray when they are flying in mid air, they just fall to the ground, dead. Try it, You'll like it!
That CRC Brake Cleaner in the Red Can is also pretty handy when working on trucks, cars, and tractors.
When I buy it by the case, the store will sell it to me at the "jobber" price, if I offer to pay the sales tax.
It's also real good for degreasing firearms when cleaning them. I wear vinyl exam gloves when doing that.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Siding is finished! I was on the ladder about mid-wall when I heard a low clucking sound. I looked over my shoulder as five turkeys nonchalantly walked by single file.

The power conduit has been backfilled and I heard back from the power company this morning. Everything looks ok and the connect fee is $300 (sounds cheap to me). Since they have to call 811 (to dig 3' from the end of my conduit, which I just trenched, to their pole ), it'll be done next week, JIT. I need to do more wiring for lights - it's pretty dark in there with the walls closed in.

 

[CiscoRanger]

Siding is finished! I was on the ladder about mid-wall when I heard a low clucking sound. I looked over my shoulder as five turkeys nonchalantly walked by single file.
View attachment 113557
The power conduit has been backfilled and I heard back from the power company this morning. Everything looks ok and the connect fee is $300 (sounds cheap to me). Since they have to call 811 (to dig 3' from the end of my conduit, which I just trenched, to their pole ), it'll be done next week, JIT. I need to do more wiring for lights - it's pretty dark in their with the walls closed in.
View attachment 113558

Do you already have your lights picked out?

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Do you already have your lights picked out?

I'm planning on the fan-type LED NorthIdahoWolfman showed. I've got 2 80w (ordered 150w, box says 60?, bulb says 80), and 4 28w to start with.

I'm planning 14 porcelain receptacles, starting today.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

I came down yesterday to work on lights. The power company had set the transformer and meter so I'm in business as soon as I wire lights and receptacles.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

As of yesterday everything's complete inside, lights, receptacles, two eave vent fans, miscellaneous framing. I'm sure I'll add receptacles, as needed. Still lacking are:
* Main door - coming soon, I hope
* Insulation - I considered having foam sprayed on the roof's underside, but $4,500-5,000 was more than I expected, so I'll do without.
* Roof screws - have to finish several hundred screws and plugging a few misfire holes.
* Paint - the downside of wood siding vs metal.

 

[pigdoc]

As of yesterday everything's complete inside, lights, receptacles, two eave vent fans, miscellaneous framing. I'm sure I'll add receptacles, as needed. Still lacking are:
* Main door - coming soon, I hope
* Insulation - I considered having foam sprayed on the roof's underside, but $4,500-5,000 was more than I expected, so I'll do without.
* Roof screws - have to finish several hundred screws and plugging a few misfire holes.
* Paint - the downside of wood siding vs metal.

The strategy for minimizing condensation is to equalize the temperature on both sides of the roof. If you can't do that, then insulation 'blurs' the boundary between "cold" and "hot", so there's not a sharp boundary between the diverse temps. That's where the condensation happens. Think of an ice-cold glass of iced tea on a 100-degree summer day. Where does the liquid water form? At that boundary. Warm air holds MUCH more moisture than cold air. So you gotta keep 'em separated.

When we insulated pole barns, we rolled 2"x48" fiberglass insulation with reinforced foil facing on the outside of the frame before installing siding and roofing. Probably not a very-high R-factor, but it will prevent condensation the inside of the steel in the winter, because you've moved that boundary away from the surface of the steel. Condensation quickly KILLs a steel roof, particularly so if you have livestock in the building, expiring moisture. If your roof is not insulated, try to keep it the same temperature as the outside in winter. In other words, don't be trying to heat the building interior up to 70F continuously. You could also add ridge vents to let the moist warm air out and that will also help keep the interior cool in summer. Or, install an attic fan in an endwall peak to pull the moist air out of the rafters. Use stirrer fans to push heated air towards the floor. Just thinking, solar-powered fans might be the ticket there...

Another option for insulation could be styrofoam sheets, cut to fit. A LOT of scaffold work! And, 2" styrofoam is very expensive to buy new in large quantities. I frequently see ads by people selling used styrofoam insulation....The great part about rolling out fiberglass is that there are no gaps to seal up afterwards (you lap the edges some on installation). And, gravity is your friend, so it goes on FAST.

With the impending tractor purchase, I'm thinking more and more about my shed. I'm now thinking a 12-foot sidewall with a 3-foot part-loft. [My shed will be under 1000 SF, so a 16-foot sidewall might look funny. If the roof has a 4/12 pitch, and the shed is 24 feet wide, there will be 7 feet of headroom in the loft under the peak. With trusses on 9-foot centers, I can do a 10-foot long loft the entire width of the building without a truss being in the way and get some storage space for lumber and other light, bulky stuff. And again, I'm going to install a 4-foot fiberglass light at the top of the sidewall the whole length of the building on the South side, for as much natural light as possible on the inside. Probably won't put lights on the roof, because dead fall from the trees is likely to break them, eventually.

Saw an interesting feature on someone else's barn the other day - a walk-door installed in the endwall for the loft. A-HA! Load/unload stuff like lumber into the loft from the outside of the building rather than have to move everything inside before elevating it to the loft. I like it! Also, once your shed is 'full', moving large items in and out of the loft from the interior will be complicated by what's on the shed floor. Could even put the stairs up to the loft walk door on the outside of the building and save that interior space that would taken by a stairway.

My shed is going to be in full shade all the time. So, for some solar gain in the winter when the leaves are off the trees, I'm going to get my roof steel in a dark color. Thinking barn-red roof, brown siding, and barn-red trim!

So fun to dream...
-Paul

 

[PoTreeBoy]

With the impending tractor purchase, I'm thinking more and more about my shed. I'm now thinking a 12-foot sidewall with a 3-foot part-loft. [My shed will be under 1000 SF, so a 16-foot sidewall might look funny.

Thanks for the comments.

A neighbor down the road built a 24x36 with 16' walls when he was trucking. It looks okay.

 

[pigdoc]

A neighbor down the road built a 24x36 with 16' walls when he was trucking. It looks okay.

Yeah, those guys with the tall stacks need tall doorways! That's actually the same plan size as I am contemplating. The shed will be in view from the house, but downslope some, so maybe I can get away with a 16-foot sidewall. I have to get out there with some stakes and some bamboo poles and mock it up!

On the aesthetics, I can't get crosswise with SWMBO (She Who Must Be Obeyed).

Can a doorway EVER be too high or too wide?

I was thinking of putting the big sliding doorway in the center of an endwall, but on narrow buildings (less than 40 feet wide) the pitch on the roof tends to limit an endwall's doorway height and width - you don't want the tops of the doors higher than the roof line when the doors are open! And, it just looks goofy to have the outer ends of the door track hanging out there in space.

On endwalls, we would make two doors meet on the lengthwise CL of the building. Endwall door frame-out is much simpler construction than for sidewall doors. Because on the sidewall, you're limited to a 9 foot-wide door opening and height at least a foot lower than the top of the sidewall, if you don't want to use headers and a stub pole to support the truss-end that would land in the doorway. It's just $$$. To me, 9 feet is too narrow for a sliding door, especially if you're wanting to back something around a corner on the way in. So, I'm gonna put my sliding door in the sidewall. It'll be 12 feet wide, with a clearance of 11 feet of height. That's like a minimal door height, in my mind. I'm going to have to balance the aesthetics of a very tall sidewall and a low doorway in a compromise of both...

Hey, the aesthetics RULE in the downstream marketplace!
And, MUCH more importantly, to SWMBO.
<chuckle>
-Paul