I finally made a decision to purchase the WC68 chipper, should be here in the next 2-4 weeks. In the mean time I want to get stocked up on spare parts like shear bolts. They spec out either an M8x50 8.8, or 5/16x2 Grade 5. It seems like many adverts with shear bolts neglect to state the grade of the bolt. I don't want to get a grade 2 or I'll be swapping bolts too frequently...so, does anyone have a favorite TRUSTED supplier of shear bolts?
Shear bolts? For a Woodland Mills WC68 chipper
- Thread starter Norman
- Start date
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
You could buy the shearbolts from Woodland Mills, kinda obvious.. but I've always used regular 5/16x2.5 GR5 bolts for the shear bolt for my 5' rototiller. They'll spin the tille rall day long yet will break when a big enough rock 'magically ' appears.
Why not buy them from Woodland Mills ? That way if you have a mechanical problem with the unit you eliminate the potential of them saying you used an incorrect bolt. Fastenal or Grainger should have those bolts as well.
Our WC46 came with 2 or 3 as spare. Have chipped A LOT of stuff and still no sheared bolt. Only stalls I've had have been not-feeds by the hydraulic roller and one stall from green tiny vines in the upper parts of some little trees put into it. No lock-ups that would cause a shear bolt go. Think only time this would happen is if you happen to run into some metal grown into some wood. Then, you'd likely have to rotate/sharpen some chipper blades as well.
I know woodland mills probably has some, but with alternative suppliers I might have better response or might need some for other equipment (not WM) eventually. I’m new to tractors so wasn’t sure if there was a “go-to” place for this.
NCL4701
Well-known member
Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Mine came with a couple extras and one already installed. Probably 75 to 100 hours on it between me and my brother (who co-owns it). Not sure what you’d have to do to bust a shear bolt. Chipping 5” sweet gum, hickory, oak, eastern red cedar, and loblolly pine won’t do it. Even if it gets clogged with gummy wet pine and cedar (slow feed speed if it clogs) it hasn’t busted a shear pin. Maybe trying to chip black iron pipe? (Don’t do that.)
If you want to stock up, Fastenal, Grainger, McMaster or a good local hardware store should have an appropriate replacement. Sounds like you know the specs but for whatever it’s worth, the specs in the manual should be below.
If you want to stock up, Fastenal, Grainger, McMaster or a good local hardware store should have an appropriate replacement. Sounds like you know the specs but for whatever it’s worth, the specs in the manual should be below.
I was thinking there was something special about "shear bolts", like scoring or otherwise weakening the shaft. If its as simple as just grabbing a standard grade 5 bolt I have lots of places near me where I can do that.
I'd buy grade 5 and try them. I have to say I have had a couple of attachments that have been damaged using manufacturers OEM shear bolts where the bolt did not shear at all or did not shear before the damage was done.
I try to work on the lighter side of OEM specifications for both shear bolts and slip clutch settings. If you have too many early failures on shear bolts you can always move up to OEM or grade 8.8. On slip clutches I reset them at the start of every season when I first use an attachment.
Better to be safe than sorry, it's a lot cheaper buying bolts than repairing expensive attachment power train parts.
I try to work on the lighter side of OEM specifications for both shear bolts and slip clutch settings. If you have too many early failures on shear bolts you can always move up to OEM or grade 8.8. On slip clutches I reset them at the start of every season when I first use an attachment.
Better to be safe than sorry, it's a lot cheaper buying bolts than repairing expensive attachment power train parts.
It's my understanding that Grade 5 and metric 8.8 are pretty much the same strength? I use 8.8's on my WC68
GreensvilleJay
Well-known member
Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
according to a quik netsearch, yes gr5 and m8,8 are the 'same',more or less.
'proper' shear bolts for a specific use, will have TWO grooves in the smooth section of the bolt which will line up with where the hub of the device mates with the shaft. Obviously different sizees of shafts will require different shear bolts
some shear bolts only have 1 groove at the 1/2way point.
regular gr5 bolts have lots (aka the threads....)
While I've broken many a GR5 reg bolt used as shearbolts on snowblowers and 5' tillers, have never,ever damaged the equipment. When you look at the amount of swinging metal on my 5' rototiller,spining at 540 RPM, you can see why the 'itty bitty bolt' would break first.
'proper' shear bolts for a specific use, will have TWO grooves in the smooth section of the bolt which will line up with where the hub of the device mates with the shaft. Obviously different sizees of shafts will require different shear bolts
some shear bolts only have 1 groove at the 1/2way point.
regular gr5 bolts have lots (aka the threads....)
While I've broken many a GR5 reg bolt used as shearbolts on snowblowers and 5' tillers, have never,ever damaged the equipment. When you look at the amount of swinging metal on my 5' rototiller,spining at 540 RPM, you can see why the 'itty bitty bolt' would break first.