Septic System

[Stmar]

We have lived in the country on a septic system in two places for 15 and 20 years for a total of 35 years. We have never had our septic tank pumped at either place, just the wife and I and we are careful what we put down the drain. Neighbor has had his done a few times in the last 5 years or so and there are some neighborhoods that have to have theirs done yearly. Those neighborhoods are lower elevation near creeks, we are high and dry with sandy soil. Are we playing with fire here by not having it pumped? No issues so far but $150 bucks is not a problem if it saved us from dealing with a bigger issue later on. Just curious as to what others experience, we were always told that if you don't abuse the system it will take care of itself.

 

[BAP]

If you let the solids build up too much in your tank, then you run risk of having problems. The solids can be forced out into the leach field plugging up the drainage abilities of it, or back up in the line between the tank and house. Either situations are not a good thing to have. Both can be very expensive to resolve.

 

[RCW]

If you let the solids build up too much in your tank, then you run risk of having problems.

True. Can modify the velocity/throughput of the tank, and not let stuff settle out as it normally would. Ends up in the leach/absorption area of the system.

Also, no matter how careful you are, grease can get into the tank and float in the "scum" layer. Even the best baffles may not keep some from getting into your absorption area.

Gumming up the absorption area is the main risk.

For just 2 people, I think a pump-out every 4-6 years is a good practice. Some will say more often.

 

[Tughill Tom]

Also you should have the inlet and outlet Baffle's looked at. They can disintegrate over time and will let solids enter the leach field. which is ungood for sure!

 

[CaveCreekRay]

The "disaster house" we just finished remodeling was 22 years old when we bought it and the septic system had never been pumped! It took flushing a radio transmitter on a cable down the toilet to actually find the thing as we had no as-builts for the property. I was there when they pulled the lid off the tank. Other than a raft of cellulose (compacted toilet paper) the "technician" was actually able to stand on, the tank was in excellent shape. With only two people living here throughout those 22 years, and a 1200 gal solids tank, it managed.

The system test (required now at sale) involved putting a known quantity of water in the tank (just over the outflow pipe) and ensuring the level dropped. Then, with the water level right at the bottom of the empty tank outlet, they left the tank overnight and came back to ensure the level did not drop, indicating no crack in the tank. The house passed. The barn (one sink and one toilet -hardly ever used) FAILED. The sellers had to buy and install a new tank out there and that was my wife's first "tractor-driving job", getting the manhole access covers installed.

We have been in six years now and another pump is on my list for this Fall.

In low range, just above idle, what could go wrong? She did GREAT! A little tougher because it wasn't flat ground. I had to help her with what the FEL lever did. This job was quoted at $2000 by the driveway paver guy who was ready and eager to rip us off... Afterwards, my wife asked, "Did we just make $2000?"

(No hood back then... Still unrepaired)

 

[Lil Foot]

My place in the high country has a conventional septic system that was installed in 1986.
1000 gal concrete tank, 175ft leach field of 2ft wide, 7-9 ft dp trench filled with 2-3" cinders.
Neighbor was having his pumped in preparation for selling the property, so we split the trip charge and I had my tank inspected at the same time. Tech opened the inspection cover on the "solids" side and used a clear plastic pipe with 1" graduations the full length. Pushed the pipe to the bottom; tank is 60" deep, and mine had
1 1/2" of sediment.
Tech said it was the cleanest tank he had ever checked, especially after 28yrs of use. Granted, it is not occupied full time, but still pretty remarkable.
Guy who installed the system told me to use septic chemicals, which I do religiously, and that lots of clear water will only help things to stay flowing. No bleach, heavy detergents, no grease or food waste.
Seems to be working for me.

 

[Stmar]

Thanks for the input, in the process of getting it scheduled and will have them do an inspection while here.

 

[RCW]

and will have them do an inspection while here.

This is gonna sound evasive, but unless you suspect a problem, just have them pump the tank and give the tank a “lookie” that everything is in the tank and where it belongs. Nothing more. A modern concrete tank is damn near bulletproof, but there are exceptions.

Kinda like having your car in for an oil change /service at certain chain-store automotive shops......”you’re gonna need new muffler bearings, brakes all around, and headlight fluid......$20 for the oil change but the other stuff will be $890.....”

 

[Nicfin36]

I had mine pumped years ago. Maybe 4 years ago. The house is about 40 years old and I bought it about 17 years ago. I do not know if it had ever been pumped. I doubt it has. I was having the water back up in my tub and figured I would have it pumped. My tank is concrete and covered with soil. They had to remove enough soil to get the lid to slide open. It was clear water all the way to the bottom. It did not even look like anything was in it. They pumped it and got sludge off the bottom. I was surprised. It turned out my lines to the tank had pulled loose at both ends of one section of pipe and roots had encapsulated the sections that had pulled loose. I was amazed the lines were able to be used that way. I finally was able to fix it last month with my tractor/backhoe.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Every 5 years for us and I know the 'honey dipper' personally. County says ever 2 but I do every 5.

Here's a good story for ya....

So I'm moving some brush a couple years ago and kind of forgot about where the tank lid was and I'm using my M9 of course so I drive over the tank and promptly break the concrete lid in two and the right rear drops into the' abyss'... Gave me instant pucker....

So I engaged the FWA and eased out of the 'abyss and went and got a chain and removed the now 2 piece lid, exposing everything.

Being in the metal fabrication business I always have plenty of steel around so, I took a sheet of 1/4" thick diamond plate, plasma cut it to size, welded 2x2 angle on the underside, plas cut an access manhole in it, coated the underside with tar and put it over the 'abyss'. Welded tabs on the cover, assed a lift eye and set it in place and it's been good to go since.

Moral of the story, remember where the honey pit is.

My leach field extends under my hayfield on the east side of the house. Effluent grows excellent hay.

 

[Tooljunkie]

its pretty wet around here. I have it pumped during the dry part of the summer. Truck can back around house to get to tank. Guy does house and small holding tank by my shop for $100

 

[torch]

Measure the thickness of the scum + the thickness of the sludge. The total should not exceed 1/3 of the tank depth.

Using a long stick, marked off in inches (or centimeters), slowly push through the hard layer of floating scum on top. You will be able to tell when you have pushed through by the sudden lack of resistance. Note the measured thickness. Now continue to slowly lower the stick until you meet some resistance again. That will be the top of the sludge layer. Note the measurement. Continue to push down until you hit the bottom of the tank and note the final measurement.

For example: The stick pushes through 8 inches when resistance stops. That means the scum layer is 8 inches thick. Resistance is noted again at 3 foot 8 inches and the bottom of the tank is hit at 4 foot six inches. That means the sludge layer is 10 inches thick.

8 + 10 = 18 inches (or 1-1/2 feet). One third of 4-1/2 feet is 1-1/2 feet, so it's time to pump the septic system.

Note: even though the second chamber will have less sludge and scum, both chambers need to be pumped at the same time. If you have a filter on the outlet, it should be cleaned now too.

 

[greg86z28]

Our county requires it to be pumped every 3 years.

 

[bearbait]

We just had ours pumped, $345.00 taxes in and we let it go 3 years this time instead of 2. Also save all your receipts when you have it pumped so when it comes time to sell you'll have proof that it has been well maintained. A new bed here living on the water usually starts at 20 grand and goes up from there so $350.00 every couple three years doesn't seem like a bad idea.

 

[johnjk]

Just had ours pumped this week. First time in 3yrs. Being new to septic systems, I wanted to know what is going on down there. Guy told me it looked good and we could have gone another 5-6yrs before needing it pumped. Our system falls under new rules/designs for our location so we have additional filters in the second part of the tank to help catch solids and keep them out of the beds. Found out this needs cleaned every year. Oh joy. As far as adding chemicals, the local major university and State health dept do not recommend adding bacteria. Their research shows that if you add it in, then you create a low food condition for the bacteria and everything dies off causing more issues. If the tank is used regularly and you do not use bleach or those "blue" cleaners, watch what goes in, not excessive with paper, etc you will not need to supplement bacteria. The company doing the pumping is required by law to submit a report back to the state health department on the condition of your tank. Pretty interesting to chat with the owner/operator and get info on the system.

 

[D2Cat]

John, sounds like you have a REAL professional pumper and inspector and state required maintenance program. Around here the pumpers are often someone you really don't want on your property. Dirty unkempt truck and operators who try to tell you one price then find something (usually BS) they can charge you for to increase their income.

I get a price before they show up and make them stick to it. Had one guy try to add a couple hundred to the bill, and when I told him I had talked to his boss (the owner) he really got hot. I was there the entire time, from when he pulled up to when he left. I actually talked to the owner on the phone after he handed me the ticket. Owner asked, didn't he tell you he was doing the extra work. Nope, besides I provided the hydraulic cement he insisted was required, and the copper sulfate. I told the owner the amount of hydraulic cement couldn't fix anything. He was just trying to do something to make an extra charge. He finally pumped the sewage back into the tank and was yelling, and flipping me off as he pulled out. What the simpleton didn't know is I was having it pumped for a neighbor in poor health and it was a preventive measure not an emergency. I called another guy. He showed up the same day and charged what he said!

 

[Stmar]

This topic really opened up a discussion. My neighbor used this guy, family owned operation for many years, and from my research they have a very good rep. Only one more company that does it part time in our area. The input does give me things to look out for. Our county and state do not require any attention, it is left up to the property owner. Had a friend looking to buy a house, septic had not been pumped ever over 40 years. Home inspector said it needed pumped before he could even check out the system, seller refused so smartly the buyers declined. We are very careful about what goes into our system so that may be the saving grace, glad I brought it up and am scheduling it.

 

[sparky45]

After 45 years our old leach field was sluggish I decided to change the field to the newer type that isn't pipe, just a plastic canopy over the top of a 30" deep trench. Works great, that is until everything filled and the mess started coming to the top of the ground at the terminal end. Seems the operator DIDN'T place the line in LEVEL, to everything ran to the end and then to the top of the ground. Going to have it redone.

 

[Lil Foot]

We have been told by the original installer & the tech who did the inspection that under daily use, bacterial additives are not normally needed. But for a part-time or vacation use home, normal bacteria will begin to die off around 3 weeks of inactivity, hence the need for supplemental bacterial additives. Like I said, virtually no sediment & absolutely no sludge on the surface after all this time, what I'm doing seems to be working for me.

 

[Tughill Tom]

Just add Yeast on a seasonal use system. Did it for years.