Seized wheel hub options b7610

[gafi]

The rear hubs on my b7610 are sized up tight on the narrowest position. The cotter clamp things are also rusted in position. Everyone on the internet seems to have the opposite issue of loose hubs so this is very frustrating. I have reached the point where I am afraid to use my tractor do to lifting too many wheels on my hilly property. Before mowing season I will do anything destructive/expensive to widen my width. I also plan to have the rear wheels filled.

I have tried banging out the cotters with a brass rod on the inside gap.
I broke a harbor freight gear puller.
I bought an OTC 7 ton gear puller and pulled until the hub started to deform.
I have soaked everything with krone and liquid wrench for weeks.
Propane and Propane/Oxy torch on hub until axle gets too hot to touch at body.

My current plan in order is:

1) Drill out cotters and replace - $29.68/set
2) Cut off hubs with angle grinder - $145.36 each

The only other thing I can think of is to just buy 3" wheel spacers which would be about the same cost as drilling and cutting. Any other suggestions?

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

If I'm looking at your picture right, you can't drive them out like that, they won't move, they are 2 halves that clamp the axle between them.

Tap around the sides of the clamps and on the back of the hub to try and free them up.

 

[cerlawson]

I'd check with dealer. They may have advice.

Anyhow, as to using heat, there is no way propane or similar gets things hot enuff. You need a oxyacetylene torch, preferably a big one and heat things to near the point of melting and cool a couple of times. It is amazing how the expansion and colling cycles can do wonders. Take a look at bolts, etc that have been a fire. A lot of shrinkage of the inside part and expansion of the outer..

 

[cerlawson]

Look up parts on the internet and you will see it is a single piece hub and a bolt with a nut holds it in position.
I hope the diagram I copied shows in the attachment.

If you heat the head of that bolt red hot and let it cool slowly it will lose its heat treatment hardness. Then you can drill out the head. After that your punch ought to be able to send it on its way., If necessary drill out some of the bolt shank.

Also the pin hat goes thru the axle end may have tol be drilled out, but heat on that area may shrink it enuff first.

 

[cerlawson]

Note that pin thru the axle hole may be tapered. I'd bet it enters the hub on the same side as where that locking bolt goes, so drive from opposite end. Your photo of the pin held by the vice grip was on either the head of the bolt or the nut.

I'd see about an oxyacetylene torch. Small portable ones may not be sufficient heat.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

cerlawson,
The pin that's held by the vice grips in his photo is a punch
he's already removed the bolt and the placement pin.
It's just the locking cam's that are stuck.
But yes your right, he'll probably need to heat the section of the hub where the cams are located in order for them to break loose.

FYI: After re-looking at his photo, he might as well just torch off the entire locking assembly, as the face of the hub is so warped from using a puller it made the hubs worthless.

 

[kubotasam]

I dealt with that problem when I bought my B2410 a couple of years ago. I took a tap and threaded it into the end of the cotter. I think it took a 3/4" fine thread tap but not really positive. Then I threaded a bolt into the hole. Then drove the cotter out with a drift punch from the other side. The bolt threaded into the hole makes it easy to drive the cotters out. If you need the tap size I can measure one tomorrow morning.

 

[gafi]

cerlawson,

FYI: After re-looking at his photo, he might as well just torch off the entire locking assembly, as the face of the hub is so warped from using a puller it made the hubs worthless.

Yea, one of the lug nut lobes it slightly tweaked from the gear puller last fall. It still lines up with the holes on the rim and I used the tractor like that through snow season. Even if the integrity is gone from that section I think it will be fine with the other studs.

 

[gafi]

I dealt with that problem when I bought my B2410 a couple of years ago. I took a tap and threaded it into the end of the cotter. I think it took a 3/4" fine thread tap but not really positive. Then I threaded a bolt into the hole. Then drove the cotter out with a drift punch from the other side. The bolt threaded into the hole makes it easy to drive the cotters out. If you need the tap size I can measure one tomorrow morning.

This is exactly the kind of idea I was looking for, I am going to try it tonight, thanks!

 

[gafi]

I'd check with dealer. They may have advice.

Anyhow, as to using heat, there is no way propane or similar gets things hot enuff. You need a oxyacetylene torch, preferably a big one and heat things to near the point of melting and cool a couple of times. It is amazing how the expansion and colling cycles can do wonders. Take a look at bolts, etc that have been a fire. A lot of shrinkage of the inside part and expansion of the outer..

I used a rosebud tip on a oxy-propane cutting torch, 90% as hot as an oxy-acetylene torch. My limiting factor was the amount of heat conduction onto the axle shaft and not wanting to melt any seals.