Seeking Advice for First Tractor (probably B2601)

[HowardTractor]

Thanks in advance for your time and advice. Below I have laid out my land situation and the tractor and attachments I am looking at with an initial dealer quote. I was hoping I could get your advice as to whether these are the right tools for the job and if these prices seem reasonable. I think the B2601 seems like a good fit, the dealer is suggesting an LX2610 which is a few more thousand and I think overkill.

We recently moved onto a 10 acre property. It is relatively flat open land. Two sides of the land is surrounded by trees of which we own maybe 10 yards deep (so not that much forest aspect). There is a 1/3 mile gravel driveway which has some ups and downs and has not been particularly well maintained. There is about an acre plus of space around the house which is landscaped and the rear fenced in for dogs. We let the neighbors graze their goats on maybe an acre. Much of the land along with some of the neighbors land is currently cut by a local farmer in exchange for whatever he bails up and takes away. We plan on growing a little homestead with some gardening and animals. Eventually maintaining much of the ten acres ourselves.

Initially I need:

• Driveway snow removal (South / Central Pennsylvania)
• Cut lawn around house

Near future:

• Manage trees on land (clean and cut for firewood as needed)
• Put in dear fence ~ an acre or so.
• Prep land for planting inside fence (maybe hoop house)
• Put chicken coop inside fence

After that:

• Maintain gravel driveway (grade, add gravel, routine maintenance)
• All the stuff I haven't thought of yet.

After doing a bunch of research I am zeroing in on a B2601. The local dealer has 2020 stock. I told him what I was initially looking for and this is what he quoted me:

This is a little more than I wanted to spend and really only covers my initial needs. And I will need to get a trailer for transport.

Thoughts?

 

[BigG]

I would skip the blade for the FEL and buy a rear blade. The front blade is not the best way to care for the driveway nor is it good for the FEL, the arms are pretty easy to flex out of shape. Instead look at either a box blade or a land plane to groom the driveway. After market ones are a lot cheaper then the Land Pride ones. You also need a counter weight for balance as you use the FEL.

Second issue are the R4 tires. They are not good for mud nor snow. The turf tires are poor in the mud but good on the grass and snow. The R1 tires are good for dirt work/ driveway work. I grew up in SE Ohio and almost everyone ran them on their garden tractors. I never had a problem with them on the grass but many people will say that they are not good for grass. If they are tearing up the grass then you should not be on the lawn. I have an 80 hp New Holland that is not a problem on grass with R1 tires. However R14 tires may be the ideal solution for you . The are smooth enough for lawn work but I believe they will do nicely in the dirt work areas too,

If money is an issue a 3 point finish mower will save you $1500. Harder to trim with but the will cut nicely.

I would add at least one hydraulic remote for the rear to run a top link for the box blade/ land plane. If you can afford it a top and tilt (2 remotes) would be very nice.

When you talk to the dealer they will try to get you to buy the implements and add them to the bill. A quick attach at Rural King is just over $100 vs. $500 at the dealer.

Once you start using it do not be afraid to add liquid ballast to the rear tires if you need it. I believe you can also add rear wheel weights.

I can not help you with the money side of your problem.

 

[HowardTractor]

I would skip the blade for the FEL and buy a rear blade. The front blade is not the best way to care for the driveway nor is it good for the FEL, the arms are pretty easy to flex out of shape. Instead look at either a box blade or a land plane to groom the driveway. After market ones are a lot cheaper then the Land Pride ones. You also need a counter weight for balance as you use the FEL.

I have seen videos of grooming a gravel drive with a rear blade and it looked pretty straight forward. I guess I could use the same for moving the snow around. I was really only thinking to use the front blade for snow and using bucket and or rear blade of some kind for gravel. But if I could do double duty that could be good.

 

[dirtydeed]

I'm with BigG.

I'd lose the 3rd function, front blade, swift tach loader (these are problematic) and r-4's.

Get the regular loader, SSQA bucket of your choice (54" or 60"), R-14's, a box blade and a (manual angle) rear blade. Maybe get a 3pt quick hitch. The mower is debatable. I prefer a separate mower (as in zero turn) to get the job done quicker. Not sure what your intent was for your fence, but you could get a 3pt post hole, or simply rent a dingo for the job and get it done in a fraction of the time (or sub out the holes).

Best of luck to you.

Edit: throw in a set of light duty SSQA pallet forks...you just don't realize that you will need them yet. They make a fine poor mans' grapple.

 

[Crash277]

Get the third function, eventually a grapple for the tree work. I regret not getting the 3rd function installed before I got the tractor. IMO it should just be standard equipment.

dirty deed is right about the forks another item I wish I had purchased with the tractor.

 

[OrangeKrush]

The 3rd function would be nice if you ever plan on a grapple. If you haven’t.. go watch some videos of them being used.. wish I had one! If it’s not something you think you would use then drop the 3rd function and use that $$ for a rear blade and Quick hitch. I’d stick with the mmm, so much easier and if your other or better half helps you out.. they might appreciate the mmm. I would also take the upper advice on the tires.. most people would think the r4s would be good in mud but they become slicks real quick. I

I purchased front forks and they have come in real handy so far and I’m sure they will for so much more! Also check other avenues for implements, lots of options out there.. Good Luck!

 

[jimh406]

I think I have a completely different take. There are lots of ways to do the same things. I’m not saying what you should do, but I think I have some thoughts that may give you some more data points.

I’m new to tractors, but I’ve had my property for 4 years. I’ve done a lot of mowing my 2 acre yard that is fenced to keep out Elk/Deer and including some rough areas outside the fence with my little riding mower, and harrowed my 12 acre hay field and planted alfalfa and a food plot with the harrow and a little pull behind broadcaster behind my Polaris Ranger.

I’d consider a riding lawn mower for the mowing if it is relatively small. Midmount mowers and other work don’t get along that well which means you’d have to take the mowing deck off. If you have a lot to mow, buy a finish mower for the tractor and the riding mower. I have a 17.5 hp Poulan Pro with 42 inch deck that mows well and was about $1000. Depending on how you landscape, you may not need the riding mower. In any case, there are a lot of ways to mow.

I have R4s on my L2501 HST. I’m not sure what the facination is with R4s being bad in the mud. Unless you want to make a mess or have to use the tractor every day, the R4s will be fine and good for your yard/grass. If there is ice, you’ll need chains ... period. I have 3 days of snow work on my new tractor, and the R4s are ok with my loaded tires. I have had to raise my bucket going uphill. I don’t think that’s an issue. My neighbor who’s been plowing the snow for a few people for years only runs chains on the front to keep the front from pushing. I’m going to go that route with my R4s.

I was second guessing the R4s until I ran across a few threads where R1 owners admitted they chained up. I’m not a true farmer although I have 130 acres. I don’t have to do anything in deep mud or clay with the tractor when it is wet, so I went the the stronger tire that will work in the yard. If you want to know how they work for small properties, take a look at GP Outdoors, My Cluttered Garage on Youtube who both had B2601s although GP Outdoors has a LX2610. Tractor Time with Tim shows projects he does with his little Green 1025R which is quite small with R4s. The R1s will squat quite a lot with a full bucket.

My front blade is on my Polaris Ranger because I bought it first. It is manual adjust plow. For long stetches, you simply don’t adjust the blade as long as you are going the same direction. I agree that the rear blade is a better option but I’d skip the 3rd function. If you must change the angle a lot for fun, there is nothing wrong with that, but today for instance, I changed the angle twice. I did the cleanup with the tractor since I don’t have a rear blade for it, I’ll keep doing most of the plowing with the Ranger.

You probably could go smaller, but also could go bigger like the L2501 HST. The loader capability is much more than the LX2610 and B2601. Most people admit it is simply a bigger tractor even with the same HP.

I bought a Land Pride grader scraper for my L2501 HST. Watch some of the youtubes where they use grader/scraper/land planes. I think they are much better than a blade for gravel for an inexperienced person with a great result.

I suggest the rear blade and bucket for the snow, land plane for the gravel, and by a midmount if you must, but there are other options out there including a 3 point mounted one or riding mower or zero turn. GP Outdoors shows a snow blower which is also and option.

 

[UpNorthMI]

Some good advice above. My input, consider turf tires, I have an L3901 on turf tires, it does really good in all conditions. If it’s really muddy R1 tires, struggle, maybe you need to let ground dry a little!

I recommend front 3rd function and 1 set of rear remotes. They are so useful for many things. These should be fitted by dealer before your tractor is delivered.

I agree about a set of width adjustable pallet forks. Skip the front blade. Rear blade is more practical and a lot cheaper. Consider used attachments, Craigslist etc.

Buy a rear ballast box from pallet forks.com, use bags of gravel for weight. Very easy to adjust weight by removing bags.

Sort out the basic tractor first, you have lots of time for attachments, get used to the basic machine first.

 

[jnschnit]

I had a B2620 with R4 tires and used a backblade for plowing snow. Got tired of driving backwards to plow snow. Switched to a front blade with hydraulic angulation and it is so much easier. When I traded the B2620 in for a new B2601 (Dec 2020) I kept the front blade and adapted it to the B2601. It has done a great job so far this year with all the snow we have been getting up here in the southern tier of NY. The B2601 has the R14 tires and the rears are loaded. I am impressed with the traction so far. I mow about 4 acres and have the MMM (both machines). I don't have to do any trim work that I can't do with the big mower so the MMM is not a problem for me. Your pricing looks about normal, my B2601 also has the LA435 and backhoe. You can go to the Kubota website and do a build your Kubota and see what the MSRP is. You may ask the dealer to throw in loading the rear tires as part of the deal.

 

[PaulL]

I feel a B2601 is a little small for the property you describe. An LX would be a good choice. But either will do the job. An L2501 wouldn't be too big either, and will let you grow into it more if you're heading to maintaining most of that property yourself. But if you have to trailer it size could be a concern.

If it were me, one of two directions:

LX2610. 72 inch MMM. Box blade or grader/scraper. Rear blade. SSQA and forks.
Maybe a grapple if you can stretch to it. 3rd function is dealer installed, so I see no reason it's more expensive to install it when you want it - so I'd get it when you get the grapple.
I personally wouldn't get a quick attach for the 3ph on this size tractor - I think the LX does/can come with telescoping arms which make connecting up possible enough. The implements are light enough to horse around if you have to. But then again, a quick attach is cheap. Also easy to add later.

You can downsize to a B2601 with same list of stuff. I like MMM more than RFM, and although everyone says get a dedicated mower, my B2601 is far faster than the dedicated mower I used to have. I guess it depends on what sort of dedicated mower you have.

Second option, go with a separate tractor and mower. L2501, brush hog or flail (for pasture), box blade or grader scraper, rear blade, SSQA and forks. No need for mower, get a zero turn. This machine is quite a bit heavier, so you need a bigger trailer. But it's quite a bit more capable - definitely a lot more than a B2601, a reasonable step up over an LX, particularly for that driveway maintenance.

If it were me, I'd be looking LX. It feels the right size for 10 acres to me, a B2601 seems like it'll be too small when you want to pull a trailer load of stuff over the back, or go out and mow a paddock (a B2601 won't lift a very big brush hog, although going with a flail helps with that).

 

[mikester]

I'd recommend front and rear remotes, drop the front blade, drop the MMM, add a 3PH finishing mower, add 3ph blade. You will want a grapple if you are dealing with trees/brush/cleanup. If you get a lot of snow you might want a snow blower down the line.

You would also find after a while you wish you bought 30+ PTO HP machine with more loader capacity.

Dont stress about the cost now. These tractors will last your lifetime if you take care of it and they really hold their value. I would suggest buying new with warranty unless you can find a one owner cared for unit that you personally know the history of.

 

[greg86z28]

Nice package. I have a B2601 as well and it's an incredible machine for the price, and it should do a fantastic job tackling the items you laid out.

I have the R14 tires which I like, they are a hybrid between Turf Tires and Ag or Industrial tires. They seem to work pretty well for mowing and at the same time well for snow/dirt. I would imagine in clay they wouldn't be great though.

If you have the budget, I would get the 3rd function, especially if they will throw in the labor for free or at a reduced rate. Like others have said, I'd drop the front blade. You can probably find a rear blade for cheap ($100) on CL or FB.

I have the Land Pride PFL1242 pallet forks. They are nice, I'd recommend them.

You listed the 60" MMM - make sure you do get that (not the 54"). The 60" sticks out further from the tractor making it easier to mow around objects.

 

[NHSleddog]

A couple points.

1. The tractor should last for years and years. Unlike a car, you tend to keep them, so make the best decision possible up front.

2. I have never heard anyone say "I wish I bought a smaller tractor". You hear "I wish I bought a bigger tractor" regularly.

There is nothing wrong plowing snow with a SNOW plow. Literally thousands of them driving around in the Northeast. They have been removing snow since the steam engine. I have never seen a "back blade" on one of them. I have both and no longer use the back blade in the winter at all. I use the 6-1/2' plow on the front (power angle with 3rd function remote), and ballast on the back. It snows regularly here. If you want the ultimate, pick up a snow pusher for cleanup when you are done with the plow.

For road work/maintenance, if you plan on getting good operating your tractor, I would get a box blade over the land plane, you can do a lot more with it.

I have the kids mow with the ride-on for a couple more years so I can't help with that.

 

[WDF]

Lots of good advice above. I'd look at a bigger tractor, one of the L-series. Not too much bigger but a lot more capable (minus the mid-mount-PTO). I paid less than $1000 more for a L2501 last year.
Given that I don't know your location, dealer, or market, you might be paying too much for a small machine.

I also tend to agree that a rider/zero turn mower would be a better tool for any yard mowing. If you go this route, get R14 tires instead of the R4. Mine bite a little in the wet Florida sand, but would be fine in northern dirt and provide a significant advantage in mud.

Finally, as mentioned above, no one ever wished they had bought a smaller tractor, (or truck, or camper).
I also bought a 20' equipment trailer. Some dealerships have trailer packages, and when I was shopping they were bottom-of-the-line trailers. I found mine through an independent mfg local to me.

 

[random]

I went bigger than I was planning and have no regrets. I have 2 acres clear and a mile of road to maintain, with a L3301. I don't think I could handle the road with anything smaller.

 

[greg86z28]

Remember the L series has no mid PTO = no mid mount mower. For me that was a deal breaker. But for you it may not be - if so, the L series are a great value (my dad has one, they are great).

 

[greg86z28]

Also, don't get overwhelmed by the choices.

If you buy a smaller tractor it will mostly just take longer to do various tasks. The only critical mistake you can make is if you need to lift X amount of weight (like boulders which can't easily be cut in half) and buy a tractor with a loader that actually can't do that.

Other than that, the majority of all tasks can be conquered by taking more or smaller trips.

I found a TON of value in watching youtube channels - either Tractor Time with Tim or GP Outdoors. Tractor Time with Tim shows how much a little 1025R can accomplish (this is a JD machine that is less capable than a B2601). GP Outdoors used to have a B2601 and has a ton of videos doing various tasks with that machine.

Bigger can be better, but don't over think it. It's also nice to be able to have upfront a bunch of attachments. I know you can always buy more later, but the reality is we don't all want to invest 30k+ in a tractor setup.

Just my thoughts. Good luck and most importantly have fun! Getting a tractor is great!

 

[ItBmine]

The B2601 will do all you need. My b2620(the older version takes care of 21 acres here. And the money you save over the LX will buy you an implement or two.

I don't know why everyone has issues with R4's in snow? I get 13.5 feet of annual snow fall and I have R4's and have yet to lose traction pushing with the loader or snow blowing.
Maybe on a steep hill with wet snow? But mine work. But I also replace tires when they wear out.

 

[dirtydeed]

The B2601 will do all you need. My b2620(the older version takes care of 21 acres here. And the money you save over the LX will buy you an implement or two.

I don't know why everyone has issues with R4's in snow? I get 13.5 feet of annual snow fall and I have R4's and have yet to lose traction pushing with the loader or snow blowing.
Maybe on a steep hill with wet snow? But mine work. But I also replace tires when they wear out.

I lose traction with my r4's all the time (on blacktop in snow). Just a slight incline and as you say in a wet snow which we tend to get here in PA.

I think there are better options now available for snow than R4's. They are great for loader work and ok for snow removal on gravel, but they sure aren't the best on pavement when pushing snow. I can attest to that claim.

 

[MNVikingsGuy]

With your todo list my guess is you will quickly outgrow a 2601. I would go LX2610 or LX3310 and matching implements (60"-66")