Second remote for B2650?

[TheOldHokie]

That's what they're telling me. B7317 for $455 and B7304 for $240. (I posted the $685 price before checking the invoice).

RCFlyer's comment about going to sales vs. parts may have helped. The floor salesman looked it up and put together a price for me, then had parts order it. In stock at the warehouse, should see it in 10 days or 2 weeks.

Yep - that sounds like the full thing. Congratulations!!

Dan

 

[Russell King]

Stopped by the dealer and ordered the 2nd remote kit. Pretty reasonable based on my expectations at $685 plus tax.

Now I just need to source the hydraulic side link. Seeing them at Agrisupply, just need to take a tape down and decide what length I need. If anyone here has another/better source, I'd love to hear about it.

Fitrite hydraulics for the cylinde is a good option (but takes time)

 

[PHPaul]

Fitrite hydraulics for the cylinde is a good option (but takes time)

26 weeks? 6 MONTHS?? That's insane. Looking around at various sources, looks like I may have to adapt something by welding new ends on. Never occurred to me that sourcing a cylinder would be such a problem.

 

[mikester]

You can till buy "cinder blocks" in Canada?
Have not seen a "cinder block" for many years in the USA.

Cinder Blocks - Concrete, Cement & Masonry - The Home Depot

Get free shipping on qualified Cinder Blocks products or Buy Online Pick Up in Store today in the Building Materials Department.

www.homedepot.com

 

[fried1765]

Cinder Blocks - Concrete, Cement & Masonry - The Home Depot

Get free shipping on qualified Cinder Blocks products or Buy Online Pick Up in Store today in the Building Materials Department.

www.homedepot.com

Concrete/masonry blocks can be purchased everywhere.
I have not seen a "cinder block" since the 40's

 

[SDT]

That's what they're telling me. B7317 for $455 and B7304 for $240. (I posted the $685 price before checking the invoice).

RCFlyer's comment about going to sales vs. parts may have helped. The floor salesman looked it up and put together a price for me, then had parts order it. In stock at the warehouse, should see it in 10 days or 2 weeks.

Doubt that you will receive everything at that price. Something is wrong.

As previously mentioned, I do not trust dealers.

 

[PHPaul]

I'll post back when the kits arrive. I was pretty surprised at the price myself.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I'll post back when the kits arrive. I was pretty surprised at the price myself.

Go to the Kubota parts website and pull up the remotes parts list. Ot wil detail the contents of the whole goods kits. Print them our and check them against what you receive.

As I recall from an earlier quick look there are two parts to the kit. One is the valve itself and presumably that would be the $200 item. The other part contains the handle for the valve along with 2 hoses, fittings, couplers, and an additionsl coupler support.

Dan

 

[PHPaul]

I have those print-outs and will report back.

 

[Rcflyer330]

ok I looked at my reciept and made an edit to my post above you should see 2 items on your reciept. the items will be the valve and the lever kit.

 

[Orange1forme]

Search | Coleman Equipment

https://www.messicks.com/parts/B7304

Kubota #B7317 2ND POSITION KIT & 2ND LEVER / B50

2nd Position Lever Kit - Requires B7316 (Base Kit, 1st Lever, Valve) AND B7304 or B7305 Valves

www.messicks.com

 

[PHPaul]

Here is what I received for my $733. Looks like everything I need. Plan is to start on it tomorrow, I'll document the procedure.

 

[TheOldHokie]

View attachment 123142

Here is what I received for my $733. Looks like everything I need. Plan is to start on it tomorrow, I'll document the procedure.

Should be a walk in the park.

Dan

 

[fried1765]

Doubt that you will receive everything at that price. Something is wrong.

As previously mentioned, I do not trust dealers.

"I do not trust dealers"

 

[PHPaul]

Pulled it into the garage, jacked it up enough to get the wheel off and set it on jack stands.

Trimmed the inner fender to make room for the second valve.

Removed stack end plate, installed longer stud and second valve with o-rings, replaced end plate and o-rings, secured with longer bolts provided.

Assembled second coupler, hoses on valve end first then coupler, installed second coupler with longer bolts provided.

While not technically complex, getting and holding multiple parts in place while trying to start bolts/studs was a challenge, especially when you're 73 and what doesn't hurt doesn't work.

Getting the second actuator lever threaded through the side console and the floor and getting those itty-bitty pins and cotters in place while standing on a short step ladder, leaning over the back window of the cab and holding a flashlight in your teeth so you can almost see what you're doing required some verbal lubrication.

All that's left is firing it up and checking for leaks and proper operation.

 

[Rcflyer330]

View attachment 123223
Pulled it into the garage, jacked it up enough to get the wheel off and set it on jack stands.

View attachment 123224

Trimmed the inner fender to make room for the second valve.

View attachment 123225

Removed stack end plate, installed longer stud and second valve with o-rings, replaced end plate and o-rings, secured with longer bolts provided.

View attachment 123226

Assembled second coupler, hoses on valve end first then coupler, installed second coupler with longer bolts provided.

While not technically complex, getting and holding multiple parts in place while trying to start bolts/studs was a challenge, especially when you're 73 and what doesn't hurt doesn't work.

Getting the second actuator lever threaded through the side console and the floor and getting those itty-bitty pins and cotters in place while standing on a short step ladder, leaning over the back window of the cab and holding a flashlight in your teeth so you can almost see what you're doing required some verbal lubrication.

All that's left is firing it up and checking for leaks and proper operation.

Nice write up. I forgot about pins they were probally the hardest part of the install. For installing the pins I worked through the right side door standing on the ground instead of through the rear window. I do wish the kit came with a couple extra cotter pins just because they are so small and and very easy to loose. I know this because i dropped one and spent 10 minutes looking for it.

 

[TheOldHokie]

View attachment 123223
Pulled it into the garage, jacked it up enough to get the wheel off and set it on jack stands.

View attachment 123224

Trimmed the inner fender to make room for the second valve.

View attachment 123225

Removed stack end plate, installed longer stud and second valve with o-rings, replaced end plate and o-rings, secured with longer bolts provided.

View attachment 123226

Assembled second coupler, hoses on valve end first then coupler, installed second coupler with longer bolts provided.

While not technically complex, getting and holding multiple parts in place while trying to start bolts/studs was a challenge, especially when you're 73 and what doesn't hurt doesn't work.

Getting the second actuator lever threaded through the side console and the floor and getting those itty-bitty pins and cotters in place while standing on a short step ladder, leaning over the back window of the cab and holding a flashlight in your teeth so you can almost see what you're doing required some verbal lubrication.

All that's left is firing it up and checking for leaks and proper operation.

It seems like Kubota delights in designimg valve handles that would test the patience of Job.

Dan

 

[PHPaul]

Nice write up. I forgot about pins they were probally the hardest part of the install. For installing the pins I worked through the right side door standing on the ground instead of through the rear window. I do wish the kit came with a couple extra cotter pins just because they are so small and and very easy to loose. I know this because i dropped one and spent 10 minutes looking for it.

I'm amazed that I didn't drop either a pin or a cotter pin. I used a pair of locking hemostats to hold them which helped. Bending the cotter pins was a challenge.

Function check went fine, didn't see any leaks. When sweeping up after, I found an o-ring that I suspect fell out when attempting to position and fasten the valve stack for the umpteenth time. No leaks that I could see, but I saved it and if one develops I'll take a double dose of Chill Pills and pull it back apart to replace the (suspected) missing o-ring.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I'm amazed that I didn't drop either a pin or a cotter pin. I used a pair of locking hemostats to hold them which helped. Bending the cotter pins was a challenge.

Function check went fine, didn't see any leaks. When sweeping up after, I found an o-ring that I suspect fell out when attempting to position and fasten the valve stack for the umpteenth time. No leaks that I could see, but I saved it and if one develops I'll take a double dose of Chill Pills and pull it back apart to replace the (suspected) missing o-ring.

If an oring was left out I would think you would know PDQ. Like as soon as you pressured the valves. Did you deadhead each valve in both directions? Did it look like a tank or pressure circuot oring? They are usually different sizes.

Dan

 

[PHPaul]

It looked like one of the oval orings between the valves.

I did dead head both circuits in both directions and if there's a leak, it's a minor one. I'll go down tomorrow with a clean paper towel and wipe under the valve stack to see if there's any weeping.