Seal kit install for leaky front snowblower hitch cylinder

[nbryan]

Days are shortening so getting the B2782B snow blower's B2714C quick hitch in shape as it's sporting an hydraulic oil leak at the lift cylinder shaft seal. Ordered the designated kubota cylinder seal kit but wondering how big and bad a job it is to replace such a cylinder's seals, and could I tackle it myself with certain minimum tools?
I've never opened a cylinder but this is only a 2" x 5" in good looking shape, no marks on the shaft, but a close look at the shaft seal at the cylinder end shows a tiny missing piece of seal lip about .5mm x 4mm which is obv the escape route for my leak. Cause unknown, but this cylinder is regularly lifting the front of my tractor off the ground and getting otherwise pounded by uneven terrain out in -25C conditions so it losing a chip of seal lip is no big surprise.

Or should I pay $100+/hr for an hydraulics shop to get to the job in maybe a couple weeks if I drop it off?

Just need to get the cap unscrewed, my only concern trying it myself, but I have have zero wrenches made for cap loosening.

if put in a vise would a punch or pipe wrench work maybe? Or is taking it apart then putting in new seals is a can of worms even if I get it loose, and a shop is the only I way should proceed?

The seal kit is $70 CAD, a new cylinder is $700 CAD (lol I still can't believe a 2x5 cyl is that much) so...

So many well versed hydraulics guys on here, TIA for any thoughts.

N

 

[sagor]

I took mine (BX25 front hitch cylinder) to a hydraulic shop, had it done for about $150 CAD a couple of years ago (they supplied the seals). It was not worth the aggravation trying to fix it myself, as I never did one before anyway, and don't have the right tools for it.
Your prices may vary, depending on location and how busy the shop doing the work is...
After 2 years, cylinder is still good, no visible leaks.

 

[Rcflyer330]

I am not a hydraulic guy but most cylinders are not hard to replace seals on. a pin spanner (to remove the gland end), seal pick, and some hand tools are really all you need and if you dont want to get a pin spanner you can use a pipe wrench to get the gland end off. do not use a pipe wrench on the chrome rod when you remove the nut for the piston or you will be replacing the entire cylinder. Here is a video on youtube on how to do a seal replacement for a similer cylinder.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Days are shortening so getting the B2782B snow blower's B2714C quick hitch in shape as it's sporting an hydraulic oil leak at the lift cylinder shaft seal. Ordered the designated kubota cylinder seal kit but wondering how big and bad a job it is to replace such a cylinder's seals, and could I tackle it myself with certain minimum tools?
I've never opened a cylinder but this is only a 2" x 5" in good looking shape, no marks on the shaft, but a close look at the shaft seal at the cylinder end shows a tiny missing piece of seal lip about .5mm x 4mm which is obv the escape route for my leak. Cause unknown, but this cylinder is regularly lifting the front of my tractor off the ground and getting otherwise pounded by uneven terrain out in -25C conditions so it losing a chip of seal lip is no big surprise.

Or should I pay $100+/hr for an hydraulics shop to get to the job in maybe a couple weeks if I drop it off?

Just need to get the cap unscrewed, my only concern trying it myself, but I have have zero wrenches made for cap loosening.

if put in a vise would a punch or pipe wrench work maybe? Or is taking it apart then putting in new seals is a can of worms even if I get it loose, and a shop is the only I way should proceed?

The seal kit is $70 CAD, a new cylinder is $700 CAD (lol I still can't believe a 2x5 cyl is that much) so...

So many well versed hydraulics guys on here, TIA for any thoughts.

N

View attachment 85728

What you see is most likely not the seal but the rod wiper. Its job is to wipe debris off the rod so it doesn't damage the seal. The seal is further into the cap.

I have found it easier to loosen the cap (and the piston nut) with the cylinder still mounted. You can use a pipe wrench on the lip of the cap, or a face spanner.

There are tools available to install the seal, but not required. It's important to make sure all the parts are replaced in the proper sequence and orientation, but not difficult.

FWIW, that cylinder looks like one that could be replaced for much less than OEM, if necessary.

 

[nbryan]

What you see is most likely not the seal but the rod wiper. Its job is to wipe debris off the rod so it doesn't damage the seal. The seal is further into the cap.

I have found it easier to loosen the cap (and the piston nut) with the cylinder still mounted. You can use a pipe wrench on the lip of the cap, or a face spanner.

There are tools available to install the seal, but not required. It's important to make sure all the parts are replaced in the proper sequence and orientation, but not difficult.

FWIW, that cylinder looks like one that could be replaced for much less than OEM, if necessary.

Yes it's the rod wiper with the visible lip damage.Thx for the encouragement to try, and the heads up on sequence and orientation.

I looked around for 2" x 5" implement cylinders online a bit and there's nothing I could find with a 12" to 17" range, so it looks like a custom Kubota size and part. I could swallow 250-300 replacement cost new but 700 bucks? A tiny little cylinder that is 1/8 the cost of the whole new snow blower system, quick hitch, blower and all?
Too much.

 

[DustyRusty]

Kubota has used that cylinder for decades, and it seems that they either are good for decades, or they start leaking after a couple of years. The one on my snowblower started leaking after a year, but the one on my snowplow was good for 20 years with no leaks. I have a spare to swap out the leaking one, and I will take the leaking one to the hydraulic shop for repair when I make the change out. They always want me to supply the Kubota seal kit, so this time I might just attempt to change it myself. I have a pin spanner wrench to get the cap loose. I will take a lot of pictures and give it a try one of these days.

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Yes it's the rod wiper with the visible lip damage.Thx for the encouragement to try, and the heads up on sequence and orientation.

I looked around for 2" x 5" implement cylinders online a bit and there's nothing I could find with a 12" to 17" range, so it looks like a custom Kubota size and part. I could swallow 250-300 replacement cost new but 700 bucks? A tiny little cylinder that is 1/8 the cost of the whole new snow blower system, quick hitch, blower and all?
Too much.

I think the odd stroke is what makes it unusual. 4" and 6" are available. You could probably have a 6" cut down, if required.

It's not just Kubota parts that are high. On my last trip to the farm, I blew out the steering cylinder on the Ford. An OEM complete cylinder would have been $2,000. The dealer didn't have a kit ($220, cough), so I took it 3 blocks down the street for the hydraulic shop to furnish and install for $112.

 

[nbryan]

I think the odd stroke is what makes it unusual. 4" and 6" are available. You could probably have a 6" cut down, if required.

It's not just Kubota parts that are high. On my last trip to the farm, I blew out the steering cylinder on the Ford. An OEM complete cylinder would have been $2,000. The dealer didn't have a kit ($220, cough), so I took it 3 blocks down the street for the hydraulic shop to furnish and install for $112.

Wish there was a hydraulic shop 3 blocks away from me!

 

[PoTreeBoy]

Wish there was a hydraulic shop 3 blocks away from me!

Me too. Three blocks down the street from the New Holland dealer, who's thirty miles away . Last time I needed a hose close-by I struck out.