Elliott in GA
Well-known member
Equipment
LX 2610SU w/535,LP RCR1860,FDR1660,SGC0554,FSP500, DD BBX60005
Sabre Samurai Cutter SSQA Mount
- Thread starter bird dogger
- Start date
LOL! That's exactly what my dad would've done. And we would've loved doing it!Just give a kid a polesaw, and have them stand in the bucket....
Not many kids around for me to traumatize, though.
Well, I didn't get to finish. All of my parts didn't come in. However, I was able to get the beginnings going. The frame is almost complete, just needs the actuator brackets for horizontal and vertical motions fabbed and welded. The pictures are the diagonal actuator that rotates the cutter. This was tested with the wireless control. I think it is going to work. The actuator moves nice and smooth, little slow.
I know it looks weird. I have some reservations about that bracket sticking up like that. I decided to just try it and see how it goes. In most cases, the cutter should be up when cutting overhead and laying down to cut at ground level, so I'll see what breaks first and then go from there.
Happy Mother's Day to all of your special ladies!
I know it looks weird. I have some reservations about that bracket sticking up like that. I decided to just try it and see how it goes. In most cases, the cutter should be up when cutting overhead and laying down to cut at ground level, so I'll see what breaks first and then go from there.
Happy Mother's Day to all of your special ladies!
Attachments
Alright, I finally got finished enough to do a real test. It looks like the frame and brackets are going to work out fairly well. The weak link is the wiring to the actuators. I ran the wiring through the frame as much as possible. There are 2 places that I'm concerned, that is the wire hanging out of the main frame on the side of the SSQA plate and the wire at the top of the saw frame. During testing, I didn't have any problems, but I can see where damage can occur if not careful. I kind of expected that when building this. Not many ways to hide wiring in a moveable frame.
I did end up buying a receiver tube, as the one on the SSQA was 2 inch and I couldn't use 2 inch for my frame. I was too lazy to cut it off and replace it with the 2.5 inch. In the end I was able to fab up some 2 inch 1/4 wall as the main frame. Maybe later, it will get reworked so that I can lay it down closer to the ground.
30 inches of travel out, 30 inches of travel up, and a 24 inch actuator to rotate the saw. At 30 inches out, it makes the tractor feel a little unstable. About 18 inches is plenty to get away from the fresh cut limbs.
This should allow me to trim high enough for any of my vehicles or trailers to clear under the trees, trim new growth around my land so I can mow without getting slapped in the face, maybe make a buck or two.
I still don't like the way the it looks, aside from needing paint! Though it didn't have any issues during the testing, I can see where if care is not taken, it could damage the frame, which isn't a big deal, but it could potentially flip the tractor if the conditions where right. I wouldn't push it out very much unless on fairly level ground or the extended side is uphill. I was able to cut my very difficult bank in just a few minutes with only a couple of "pucker moments".
I did end up buying a receiver tube, as the one on the SSQA was 2 inch and I couldn't use 2 inch for my frame. I was too lazy to cut it off and replace it with the 2.5 inch. In the end I was able to fab up some 2 inch 1/4 wall as the main frame. Maybe later, it will get reworked so that I can lay it down closer to the ground.
30 inches of travel out, 30 inches of travel up, and a 24 inch actuator to rotate the saw. At 30 inches out, it makes the tractor feel a little unstable. About 18 inches is plenty to get away from the fresh cut limbs.
This should allow me to trim high enough for any of my vehicles or trailers to clear under the trees, trim new growth around my land so I can mow without getting slapped in the face, maybe make a buck or two.
I still don't like the way the it looks, aside from needing paint! Though it didn't have any issues during the testing, I can see where if care is not taken, it could damage the frame, which isn't a big deal, but it could potentially flip the tractor if the conditions where right. I wouldn't push it out very much unless on fairly level ground or the extended side is uphill. I was able to cut my very difficult bank in just a few minutes with only a couple of "pucker moments".
"Thanks for the info. I'll be sure to look for that. Mine is not brushless, but I'll check it out. You now have me curious on the electronics in there.", was my previous statement.
I just got around to looking at my Ryobi 14" chainsaw. I was wrong, it is brushless. Sorry about that. Didn't realize brushless was a thing in battery tools 10 years ago!
Now that I'm almost done (for now) with the samurai, I'll start on the pole saw. I'll start a new thread for that. Just wanted to let you know I was wrong and thank you for your insight.
That is an incredible build! Sure to be very useful. Well done.
2” rear wheel extensions and ballast really helped to stabilize our B26 on our hillside farm.
Backhoe outriggers helped give another axis when positioning the polesaw. Wonder if a caster wheel like from a rotary cutter attached to a outrigger pad could help cut a ditch bank?
2” rear wheel extensions and ballast really helped to stabilize our B26 on our hillside farm.
Backhoe outriggers helped give another axis when positioning the polesaw. Wonder if a caster wheel like from a rotary cutter attached to a outrigger pad could help cut a ditch bank?
Thanks!
That is a great idea! If I have many scary moments, I might see if that could work.