Rusting due to dew/humidity?
- Thread starter Rosohatica
- Start date
Before I built my current barn (concrete floor), the building it was in was vented very well. Basically tarps covering the "door". But it had a gravel floor.
When it rained, not much would enter the building but the floor would feel damp and things inside would rust.
My new building has a concrete floor and regular garage door and is sealed rather well. I also have a small dehumidifier in the building which really helps with the NC humidity. No dampness and no rust on anything.
My guess is that a lot of dampness is coming from the ground, getting trapped inside (possibly the felt) and creating a "greenhouse".
My thought for you is why not try some thick (maybe 10 mil) plastic sheeting on the floor under the machine? It would be a fairly cheap test to see if the rust was forming due to the dampness of the ground coming through the gaps in the floor boards.
if you can't get the plastic under the shed, then lay it on the floor and use a few staples or similar on the periphery to hold it down.
Another good chemical you can use that actually dries to a film is
www.crcindustries.com
When it rained, not much would enter the building but the floor would feel damp and things inside would rust.
My new building has a concrete floor and regular garage door and is sealed rather well. I also have a small dehumidifier in the building which really helps with the NC humidity. No dampness and no rust on anything.
My guess is that a lot of dampness is coming from the ground, getting trapped inside (possibly the felt) and creating a "greenhouse".
My thought for you is why not try some thick (maybe 10 mil) plastic sheeting on the floor under the machine? It would be a fairly cheap test to see if the rust was forming due to the dampness of the ground coming through the gaps in the floor boards.
if you can't get the plastic under the shed, then lay it on the floor and use a few staples or similar on the periphery to hold it down.
Another good chemical you can use that actually dries to a film is
CRC® Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor, 10 Wt Oz
A long term, flexible corrosion inhibitor that protects & preserves metal surfaces, electrical connections, engine components & fasteners, subject to salt spray and high humidity. Also provides effective protection for steering & throttle linkages.
www.crcindustries.com
Last edited:
fried1765
Well-known member
Equipment
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, Ford 8N, SCAG Liberty Z, Gravely Pro.
I have used LPS-3 for many years.Before I built my current barn (concrete floor), the building it was in was vented very well. Basically tarps covering the "door". But it had a gravel floor.
When it rained, not much would enter the building but the floor would feel damp and things inside would rust.
My new building has a concrete floor and regular garage door and is sealed rather well. I also have a small dehumidifier in the building which really helps with the NC humidity. No dampness and no rust on anything.
My guess is that a lot of dampness is coming from the ground, getting trapped inside (possibly the felt) and creating a "greenhouse".
My thought for you is why not try some thick (maybe 10 mil) plastic sheeting on the floor under the machine? It would be a fairly cheap test to see if the rust was forming due to the dampness of the ground coming through the gaps in the floor boards.
if you can't get the plastic under the shed, then lay it on the floor and use a few staples or similar on the periphery to hold it down.
Another good chemical you can use that actually dries to a film is
CRC® Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor, 10 Wt Oz
A long term, flexible corrosion inhibitor that protects & preserves metal surfaces, electrical connections, engine components & fasteners, subject to salt spray and high humidity. Also provides effective protection for steering & throttle linkages.
Dries to tacky touch.
Much like military Cosmoline
mcmxi
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
***Current*** M6060HDC, MX6000HSTC & GL7000 ***Sold*** MX6000HST & BX25DLB
In my previous career as a commercial diver and welder we despised LPS 3 and we were around or on salt water most of the time. We used LPS 2 on all manner of equipment that might be sitting on a tug for weeks on end. Tri-Flow proved to be even better than LPS 2 on 10XX steels exposed to 3.15 wt% NaCl (similar to seawater).
If you don't need to use the stuff that you want to protect, then a thick, gummy film might do the trick, but it sucks if you plan on using your equipment. Who's going to use a rifle covered in cosmoline. Now it makes sense.
The cheapest way to protect equipment is a diesel and oil mix. Been there, done that.
Rosohatica
Member
Equipment
Kubota L3200 tractor, Tehnos MULS 130 flail mower, Fužinar Batuje 14” plow
I have a wooden floor but its in the air, on wooden beams several feet above ground. I will try an put some sort of foil on it and see if that helps. It just came to my mind that I built that shed out od totally fresh timber. It was soaking wet. And I put tractor in it since I couldnt elsewhere. Maybe majority of rust was caused during the period the shed has been drying.Before I built my current barn (concrete floor), the building it was in was vented very well. Basically tarps covering the "door". But it had a gravel floor.
When it rained, not much would enter the building but the floor would feel damp and things inside would rust.
My new building has a concrete floor and regular garage door and is sealed rather well. I also have a small dehumidifier in the building which really helps with the NC humidity. No dampness and no rust on anything.
My guess is that a lot of dampness is coming from the ground, getting trapped inside (possibly the felt) and creating a "greenhouse".
My thought for you is why not try some thick (maybe 10 mil) plastic sheeting on the floor under the machine? It would be a fairly cheap test to see if the rust was forming due to the dampness of the ground coming through the gaps in the floor boards.
if you can't get the plastic under the shed, then lay it on the floor and use a few staples or similar on the periphery to hold it down.
Another good chemical you can use that actually dries to a film is
CRC® Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor, 10 Wt Oz
A long term, flexible corrosion inhibitor that protects & preserves metal surfaces, electrical connections, engine components & fasteners, subject to salt spray and high humidity. Also provides effective protection for steering & throttle linkages.
Last edited:
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Don’t know if you have it in Croatia but there is a barrier that is similar to bubble wrap made from silver plastic that is used under metal roofs to help with condensation. I would assume you can get it. I think that would work well for both the roof and floor.
Here is a link to the material
Here is a link to the material
Bubble Insulation – Radiant Barrier USA
www.radiantbarrierusa.com
Rosohatica
Member
Equipment
Kubota L3200 tractor, Tehnos MULS 130 flail mower, Fužinar Batuje 14” plow
Rosohatica
Member
Equipment
Kubota L3200 tractor, Tehnos MULS 130 flail mower, Fužinar Batuje 14” plow