Just purchased a used RTV-900X 2014 with 1900 hours. Where can I get a manual? Is there a mileage read out or is it hours only? I was a little taken back when I drove it for the first time and went up a semi steep gravel lane in 2WD and it really bogged down and I had to switch to Low to get up the gravel lane.....was not expecting that! Little disappointed there....but low took us right up but still thought the machine would have made it in High. Tried it again in 4WD and High and it made it but bogged down and it seemed when I decelerated it was able to climb it......slowly. Any thoughts/suggestions/comments are appreciated...this is my first RTV. I do have a ZD326S, BX2230, and a M6800 that I really like. What is considered normal hour useage for a RTV?
Rtv-x900
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Re: Rtv-900x
I have a 2014 rtv-x900, that I bought new. It has 180 hrs, not sure what normal hours would be. To get the hours just turn on the key but don't start it, to get the mileage just start it. I have 639 miles. High gear is not for any work or trying to go up hill. I use low almost all the time. It does have kind of a weird thing, once you start bogging down just give the pedal a blip, like a release and press, feels like it gets moving again. It has mountains of power though, I've pulled some pretty big trees with it and when it can't pull or something gets stuck while pulling all four wheels will spin. I personally love mine, it does everything I ask of it. Congrats on getting yours.
Not sure where you can get a manual, maybe a dealer, but you can get a wsm on CD from ebay
I have a 2014 rtv-x900, that I bought new. It has 180 hrs, not sure what normal hours would be. To get the hours just turn on the key but don't start it, to get the mileage just start it. I have 639 miles. High gear is not for any work or trying to go up hill. I use low almost all the time. It does have kind of a weird thing, once you start bogging down just give the pedal a blip, like a release and press, feels like it gets moving again. It has mountains of power though, I've pulled some pretty big trees with it and when it can't pull or something gets stuck while pulling all four wheels will spin. I personally love mine, it does everything I ask of it. Congrats on getting yours.
Not sure where you can get a manual, maybe a dealer, but you can get a wsm on CD from ebay
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Re: Rtv-900x
Thanks for the reply nbking! I was able to find a website with a manual and seen the hours vs odometer instruction. It also seems better to decelerate when going up a hill when it bogs down and it seems to kick in and pull better in High....lots to learn though. This 2014 RTV-900X has 311 hours and we like it plenty but have only 2 days now.
But i did notice now there is oily substance running around the inside of the back tires. I cannot tell where it is coming from. If I leave it parked it will leave a small puddle around the back tire. It's almost like it is slinging oil but started it and sure can't see anything slinging. The springs are especially wet in the rear....not sure what is up! the oil and transmission levels are fine. I suspect it is a shock spring issue but still researching and going to talk to the dealer Monday. Any thoughts on this issue?
Thanks for the reply nbking! I was able to find a website with a manual and seen the hours vs odometer instruction. It also seems better to decelerate when going up a hill when it bogs down and it seems to kick in and pull better in High....lots to learn though. This 2014 RTV-900X has 311 hours and we like it plenty but have only 2 days now.
But i did notice now there is oily substance running around the inside of the back tires. I cannot tell where it is coming from. If I leave it parked it will leave a small puddle around the back tire. It's almost like it is slinging oil but started it and sure can't see anything slinging. The springs are especially wet in the rear....not sure what is up! the oil and transmission levels are fine. I suspect it is a shock spring issue but still researching and going to talk to the dealer Monday. Any thoughts on this issue?
Re: Rtv-900x
Check the inner and outer boots on the axles. I've seen them torn on trucks, and they look fine, but when your driving and turning, it'll sling that greasy stuff all over.
Check the inner and outer boots on the axles. I've seen them torn on trucks, and they look fine, but when your driving and turning, it'll sling that greasy stuff all over.
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whitetiger
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Re: Rtv-900x
Depending on where the "X" is makes them two completely different critters.
Park brake to the left of the seat is 900X. Park brake on the dash to the left of your steering wheel is X900.
A 900X has Low, Med and Hi gear ranges, X900 has only Low and Hi.
Do you have an RTV 900X or an RTV X900?
Depending on where the "X" is makes them two completely different critters.
Park brake to the left of the seat is 900X. Park brake on the dash to the left of your steering wheel is X900.
A 900X has Low, Med and Hi gear ranges, X900 has only Low and Hi.
Re: Rtv-900x
Thanks for all the comments! So I have a RTV-X900 instead of a RTV-900X! Differences other than what has been pointed out? Thanks for calling attention to this white tiger.....but has me SMH! I will check the boots for tears nbking.....is this a common issue with these machines? And thanks for the manual information NIW!
Thanks for all the comments! So I have a RTV-X900 instead of a RTV-900X! Differences other than what has been pointed out? Thanks for calling attention to this white tiger.....but has me SMH! I will check the boots for tears nbking.....is this a common issue with these machines? And thanks for the manual information NIW!
Re: Rtv-900x
The transmissions on these are notorious for "issues".
"Issues" in quotes because there's nothing wrong with them 99.9% of the time, just owner hasn't gotten used to them-and the characteristics of an HST in this application.
The HST uses a lot of horsepower. The HST is also dependent (severely) on temperature. Hot oil's viscosity is much lower than cold oil. Hot "thin" oil will bypass through the HST without doing as much work, and the opposite happens with cold "thick" oil.
They are very viscosity temperamental. Similarly, if a "cheap" hydraulic oil-even Kubota UDT, is used, and the unit is used in cold climates, the HST will bog the engine to the point where it it totally gutless. Super UDT only in HST's and the more temperate the climate, the more dependent they are on GOOD hydraulic fluid!
Some bogging is going to be normal by design, just like a tractor.
Additionally, they're extremely sensitive to proper cable adjustments. Also they're bad sensitive to charge pressure. 1 or 2 psi either way of the specification will either make it pull harder and faster or it'll "slip" a ton and barely move. That's why an accurate digital pressure gauge is required for anyone who's got to work on these things.
And finally, since a diesel engine is dependent on the air going into the engine, at higher altitudes, the engine's horsepower and torque will drop significantly, which affects the HST performance, which affects the engine output, which affects the HST performance. It's a snowball effect. If using yours at altitude, I suggest a turbo kit. The turbo forces the air into the engine at the same pressure (more or less) regardless of the altitude, so the power loss between sea level and 10k feet is drastically reduced! We see this OFTEN as spring fades into Summer, right about May, and people start calling about (1) power loss and (2) overheating.
Use low range if you're going to be under 5 mph. Keeps heat in the transmission to a minimum. More than 7-10 mph sustained on flat ground with low loading, you can use high. If used in hills, low gear. Climbing over tree stumps, ditch banks, whatever, low gear. Low is just another gear in the transmission. Think of it as first and second, where first is low and second is high. It won't hurt it to run it in low gear against the governor, and actually is good to do that sometimes since the engine's designed for max speed/max load (like a BX engine-and actually it's almost identical to some of the BX tractor engines and lawn mower engines).
Couple years ago I had a customer ask about a turbo kit. Said he wanted to go faster. It was already topping out at 26 mph (RTV-X1100) with the A/C off. That is pretty good. I advised him that the turbo won't make it any faster because the engine is governed and it simply can't go any faster, period. HOWEVER, we put it on anyway, and he cussed because it was not faster-not at all (still 25-26mph). This cussing went on for almost a year. Then this past September he called me from the hills out in Western Colorado, said he was HIGHLY impressed with the turbo's ability to still maintain almost 25mph even up there where it was hard to breathe. Said there was a gentleman with an X900 and the X1100 turbo was faster (and they're usually slower) than the X900 if they're both unmodified. The before and after turbo kit on flat parking lot, there is no difference in power. Where you see the difference is in altitude and weather swings, and with those if you put a stock RTV against a turbo RTV, there is a HUGE difference.
The transmissions on these are notorious for "issues".
"Issues" in quotes because there's nothing wrong with them 99.9% of the time, just owner hasn't gotten used to them-and the characteristics of an HST in this application.
The HST uses a lot of horsepower. The HST is also dependent (severely) on temperature. Hot oil's viscosity is much lower than cold oil. Hot "thin" oil will bypass through the HST without doing as much work, and the opposite happens with cold "thick" oil.
They are very viscosity temperamental. Similarly, if a "cheap" hydraulic oil-even Kubota UDT, is used, and the unit is used in cold climates, the HST will bog the engine to the point where it it totally gutless. Super UDT only in HST's and the more temperate the climate, the more dependent they are on GOOD hydraulic fluid!
Some bogging is going to be normal by design, just like a tractor.
Additionally, they're extremely sensitive to proper cable adjustments. Also they're bad sensitive to charge pressure. 1 or 2 psi either way of the specification will either make it pull harder and faster or it'll "slip" a ton and barely move. That's why an accurate digital pressure gauge is required for anyone who's got to work on these things.
And finally, since a diesel engine is dependent on the air going into the engine, at higher altitudes, the engine's horsepower and torque will drop significantly, which affects the HST performance, which affects the engine output, which affects the HST performance. It's a snowball effect. If using yours at altitude, I suggest a turbo kit. The turbo forces the air into the engine at the same pressure (more or less) regardless of the altitude, so the power loss between sea level and 10k feet is drastically reduced! We see this OFTEN as spring fades into Summer, right about May, and people start calling about (1) power loss and (2) overheating.
Use low range if you're going to be under 5 mph. Keeps heat in the transmission to a minimum. More than 7-10 mph sustained on flat ground with low loading, you can use high. If used in hills, low gear. Climbing over tree stumps, ditch banks, whatever, low gear. Low is just another gear in the transmission. Think of it as first and second, where first is low and second is high. It won't hurt it to run it in low gear against the governor, and actually is good to do that sometimes since the engine's designed for max speed/max load (like a BX engine-and actually it's almost identical to some of the BX tractor engines and lawn mower engines).
Couple years ago I had a customer ask about a turbo kit. Said he wanted to go faster. It was already topping out at 26 mph (RTV-X1100) with the A/C off. That is pretty good. I advised him that the turbo won't make it any faster because the engine is governed and it simply can't go any faster, period. HOWEVER, we put it on anyway, and he cussed because it was not faster-not at all (still 25-26mph). This cussing went on for almost a year. Then this past September he called me from the hills out in Western Colorado, said he was HIGHLY impressed with the turbo's ability to still maintain almost 25mph even up there where it was hard to breathe. Said there was a gentleman with an X900 and the X1100 turbo was faster (and they're usually slower) than the X900 if they're both unmodified. The before and after turbo kit on flat parking lot, there is no difference in power. Where you see the difference is in altitude and weather swings, and with those if you put a stock RTV against a turbo RTV, there is a HUGE difference.
Re: Rtv-900x
Any specific digital gauge you recommend? I'm working on a 2011 with a non-functional HST...guessing my first steps are checking the pressure off the plugs on the passenger side.
Any specific digital gauge you recommend? I'm working on a 2011 with a non-functional HST...guessing my first steps are checking the pressure off the plugs on the passenger side.
Re: Rtv-900x
Thanks for the info!
Returning mine to the dealer to fix at no cost since I only had it one day.
Still can't help but wonder if this boot leakage...(if that is actually what it is) how often it occurs or this is just coincidental?
Thanks for the info!
Returning mine to the dealer to fix at no cost since I only had it one day.
Still can't help but wonder if this boot leakage...(if that is actually what it is) how often it occurs or this is just coincidental?
Re: Rtv-900x
Now I suspect the liquid may be coming from the tires and is greenish in color. Taking the tire to a local tire dealer tomorrow. Some have speculated it could be a product called slime...which I am not familiar with but understand it is potent stuff. All the tires are in poor shape, pointed that out when purchased. All speculation at this point. Was told to make sure the tire place is warned.
Now I suspect the liquid may be coming from the tires and is greenish in color. Taking the tire to a local tire dealer tomorrow. Some have speculated it could be a product called slime...which I am not familiar with but understand it is potent stuff. All the tires are in poor shape, pointed that out when purchased. All speculation at this point. Was told to make sure the tire place is warned.
Re: Rtv-900x
There is nothing in the tires that is considered "potent stuff". Yes, if it's slime it's nasty to clean out and work with. Every tires shop has had their share of the juice on themselves. It would be like having some soapy snot on you!!!
There is nothing in the tires that is considered "potent stuff". Yes, if it's slime it's nasty to clean out and work with. Every tires shop has had their share of the juice on themselves. It would be like having some soapy snot on you!!!
Re: Rtv-900x
I've just heard people say that slime was highly flammable and if anyone works on tires with the slime in them need to be warned not to smoke and use special tools. It's the first I've personally heard of the stuff.
I've just heard people say that slime was highly flammable and if anyone works on tires with the slime in them need to be warned not to smoke and use special tools. It's the first I've personally heard of the stuff.
Re: Rtv-900x
I think the warning you have in mind is from the spray cans of tire sealant. The propellant in the can get in the tire and may cause grief. But that propellant has probably been changed by govt. regulations by now!
I think the warning you have in mind is from the spray cans of tire sealant. The propellant in the can get in the tire and may cause grief. But that propellant has probably been changed by govt. regulations by now!
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Re: Rtv-900x
I have found it to be a fantastic solution for small leaks when you cannot find the nail/screw or whatever is causing the leak.
It will help small holes in the rubber tread and even sidewall, once the sidewall hole gets too big - it will not help.
Slime is NOT flammable at all, it it a wet jell that uses air to cure.
I have found it to be a fantastic solution for small leaks when you cannot find the nail/screw or whatever is causing the leak.
It will help small holes in the rubber tread and even sidewall, once the sidewall hole gets too big - it will not help.
Well the tires had nothing but air...no liquids. Here are some pictures of what I am seeing. Again this is the rear drivers side. Thoughts?
Attachments
I was really thinking it was the outer cv boot, being torn. But after seeing close ups of the area, I definitely believe it is not. Looks like antifreeze to me.
Antifreeze is what I suspect too.....radiator, recovery bottle with overflow tube all in the front. While I had tire off started it in the garage and let it run 15-20 minutes to get the temperature up and nothing...didn't see any leaks. Scratching my head!
I'd try this. Get some degreaser (krud kutter, or simple green) in a spray bottle. Maybe not simple green since it's green. Spray that whole area really good, let it sit a bit and spray again, then get in there with a hose and go to town cleaning it up. Get all that area dry best you can. Then let it sit overnight, preferably on top of a big piece of cardboard. Start doing inspections for your leak. Hopefully you can find the source before it gets to your axle or tire and starts flinging it all over. Good luck
Seems to me the only time it leaks is when it is running or maybe better yet, when it is moving. Also wondered about the suspension system, the shocks maybe.